Both my dogs are itching (one has a hdm allergy so its normal for her to have itchy days) but my older dog is still itching after I frontlined both of them 2 weeks ago - I run a very strict flea control in my house!!! lol so routine de-fleaing is normal. Spraying the house and boiling bedding etc! Both dogs fed on BARF and wormed every 3-6 months with drontal so I am sure there are no fleas in my house and they are in perfect condition But... about 2 months ago I bought my 2 guinea pigs into the house to stay in an indoor cage in the utility where my dogs sleep at night - could it be a coinsidence but they seem to be scratching alot too.  I wondered if some sort of mite may be responsible.  Anyone have any suggestions before I head off to the vets with my pets.............. again!

> I wondered if some sort of mite may be responsible.

Oh yes, it's probably Cheyletiella ( rabbit fur mite, walking dandruff) and will need a bath for GPs and Frontline spray for canines (not spot-on) from vet.

Where do you get your straw and hay for your guinea pigs? There are mites that live in straw especially untreated straw you might get in bulk from farm shops, straw from pet shops is usually treated for the mites. I had this same problem with my guinea pigs itching. Also had to check the wood shavings were the kind with less dust. Might be something else, guinea pigs can have fleas also so might be worth treating them too.

I have heard that you are recommended to freeze straw before giving it to small animals.  This might help kill off any uninvited guests.

Hi, thanks for your reply - is there any way of finding out if this is the case or is it to the vets straight off.  I wonder why the spray is effective rather than pipettes of frontline.  i have spoken to a few people lately who have said they ar unhappy with the results of frontline - even my best friend who is head nurse at a local vets has had reports it not working so they have switched to another flea control beginning with P I think but cant remember what its called.

Hi, Its not advisable to use straw with guinea pigs so I have always used only hay - its from a farm and I buy it in a bale straight out of the barn, should I freeze the hay?

It sounds like your guinea pigs may have hay mite although this doesn't come from the hay as most people think.  I have had guinea pigs in the same cage and one has had hay mite and the other two haven't.  All my guinea pigs have the same hay too.  It's something that all guinea pigs have but it only shows itself in some guinea pigs, some people say if they get ill or stressed it can bring on the hay mite.

You need ivermectin to treat and kill the mite.  Vets sometimes do injections and it involves going back every week for 3 or 4 weeks and they sometimes insist on treating guinea pigs that are caged with the guinea pig with mites which is unnecessary.

This is what you need if you decide to buy it online.  http://www.vetuk.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1500

Fipronil is the active ingredient in Frontline spray and at the moment is the only thing licenced for Cheyll in dogs. The spot on is a different chemical and that's why it can be bought over the counter. It's efficacy for fleas doesn't effect it's use for Cheyll. Ivermectin may be used on rodents but can be very risky in some other species eg dogs esp collie types.

Sorry I did mean the ivermectin just for the guinea pigs.  You could try Stronghold for your dogs if you don't think frontline is working although you would have to get it from your vet.

Stronghold doesn't work for Cheyletiella.

Hi, thanks everyone for your replies - I am unsure whether to go ahead and just treat them without knowing if it actually mites, I may be wasting my time and money if it turns out to be something else.  I will take my dog to the vets to see if they can tell and then treat the pigs if necc.  Unless there is a easy way to tell at home??

Are the guinea pigs scratching constantly and are there any bald patches anywhere because if there are you can be sure it's definitely mites to blame.

No, they occasionally scratch but its not alot, they dont have any bald patches on either of them - just seems a coincidence one of my dogs is scratching alot since they came indoors.  Have made appoitment with my vet for tomorrow so hopefully all will be revealed!

You need a microscope and a strip of Sellotape to observe the mites...and a book to identify whether its Cheyl or Sarcoptic mange. 

I have some sellotape but no microscope so I am off to see my vet tomorrow - I will explain that the guineas are sleeping in with the dogs too. Keep you posted!

Vets thinks its a mite of some sort so back two weeks ago the dogs were given Stronghold and the guineas a spot on treatment - the itching has got better and the guineas have been moved after the cage disinfected to another part of the house where the dogs never have access to.  Trouble is I think the itching is not totally gone and understand both dogs have to treated again after one month with Stronghold but wonder whether we are missing something, maybe the mites are still under the skin irritating still but are dead??

Agree with Anna 100%.  I bred, exhibited and judged longcoat cavies for 25 years.  In the old days Ivermectin was only actually licensed for cattle, but I was a member of the Cambridge Cavy Trust, and offered research results to my vet.  He was willing to supply me with drugs and needles in bulk - I had 300 cavies then. 

I told him it wasn't necessary to inject, and it had been proved successful given orally.  One drop on the tongue for babies, a couple of drops for adults.  I loathed giving up my Cooper's Fly and Scab, but sheep dip became impossible to get hold of (my vet used to cover his ears whenever I mentioned how great it was), he knew it worked, but it was being phased out, and supplies dried up.

Most people that showed to any great extent, would make sure that their show pigs were given Ivermectin before going to a show, as a precaution.  If using Ivermectin orally, dose the guinea pigs at 10 day intervals.  3 doses should do it, and I would always treat animals in the same cage, as, even if showing no signs, they are often "carriers".

I loathed giving up my Cooper's Fly and Scab

That brought back some memories. I remember the Cooper's Flea powder that came in a huge shaky tin and turned all the dogs white :-)

We had cavies in the seventies.  They had mites in '76 - the very HOT one! - and got rid of them (the mites not the cavies) with Tetmosol solution from the chemist - used for humans too but different dilution - it was recommended in Fur and Feather ;)   I'd never have thought of using sheep dip    but I didn't have 300 of them ;)

The guineas are sorted, my last post was about the dogs............. sorry for any confusion.

Agree about the Tetmosol being ace.  A chemist used to order large bottles of the stuff for me, as dipping spring and autumn was routine as a precaution.  Thing is, I showed long coats, and at a year old you have 12" coat to groom out, it looked greasy and horrid using tetmosol.  The sheep dip left nothing apart from a strong smell, but ensured I didn't pick anything up at shows to ruin all my hard work.  I would just shampoo as normal, and have a bucket of warm sheep dip to dunk the pig in after rinsing.  Tetmosol was used in hospitals for scabies.  And!!!!!!!!!  You remember Fur and Feather!  Or is it still around?  I stopped getting it once the Cavies had their own dedicated publication for exhibitors.

Fur and Feather is still around but subscription only. There was talk of it going on the shelf in newsagents a while back but as far as I know it hasn't happened.

Now there's a blast from the past!

I haven't kept Cavies since '78, we moved and there was no-where suitable in my parents' house or garden :(

Still got a bottle of Tetmosol around, can't remember why I bought it now   - it wasn't for humans tho ;)

The second treatment of Stronghold will have to be given to catch any mites that have survived the first treatment ;) 

Stornghold and Advocate are really very very effective on mites.  We picked up mites a couple of years ago and it took a good 6 months to get the whole situation under control even with treatment every month.  You need to sterilize your brushes bedding and beds floors and all areas the animals live in.  The best way to sterilize the brushes is to wash them as usual and then leave them in strong sunlight (ho hum) well that may take a while.  But I would not be giving up the treatment after the second dose as they can pick mites up again from where ever they got them in the first place.

Nearly ruined my chances at Crufts but just managed to get a little coat back on her head before judging.  That was 2006 and we've never had such a bad problems since.

I know this wasnt the point of the post but the picture of you dunking g.p. in sheep dip just made me laugh. 300! I picture a production line  I had afew g p over the years and think they are so sweet.

Well, heres the latest! Both dogs are now itching alot AGAIN!! rrrhhh.  The guineas are fine and away from the dogs - Am I right in thinking that Stronghold wont kill walking dandruff (cheyletiella)? Just wonder why the itching got better, not gone but better and after only 3 wks is worse than ever.  My bitch has a HDM allergy and is normally itchy but under some sort of control but even she is nibbling & scratching more now.  I feel so sorry for my dogs, what with one having A.F and another with an allergy I dont think its fair on them.  The only time they seem really happy is when we are out walking and training - I am doing a 25 mile walk soon and the dogs are training & doing it with me, so we are hard exercisers! - at least they spend alot of time out n about so they have some relief from it.  Back to the vets me thinks!!

What a pain its horrid when you know they are uncomfortable and you cant stop it.