Apart from a puppy sales contract I also provide a couple of pages of "tips" as a separate document
You have now become the proud owner of a Kerioak Dobermann Puppy. Every care and attention has gone into the rearing of this puppy, but the finished state and condition when it reaches maturity will depend upon you and the manner in which you care for your puppy. The following tips and suggestions are given for your guidance.
INCLUDED ARE:
When You get your puppy home
Feeding
Worming & Inoculations
Toilet Training
Grooming
Exercise
Training
Dobermann Books
Problems
WHEN YOU GET YOUR PUPPY HOME
I would suggest that you let your puppy straight out into your garden to relieve itself, if you are ultimately going to give a command for this act this is a good time to start ie “puddles” - gooooodd puppppyy. Let it explore the new surroundings and do not pick your puppy up again unless it comes to you for a cuddle, soon after this give a feed and let it run around outside again.
DO NOT allow it to go up and down stairs until a few months old as this can damage growing bones etc.
FEEDING
As you know your puppy is being fed a raw diet with four meals a day, no grains, cereals or cooked feeds have been given at all. The aim of this is to cut down on the risk of cancers, skin and stomach problems, allergies and growth problems with bones during those early months when growth is so fast. Keep your Dobermann on the slim side, it is better for a pup to grow slowly than to grow fast and fat.
Your puppy is being fed (and should remain on this for at least 2 weeks to lessen the risk of stomach upsets) If your puppy does get an upset stomach then skip one meal completely, give half for the next meal and see how pup is. Often if you are feeding too much this will result in loose stools, just reduce amount a little. If you ever see blood in stools then contact vet and take sample with you.
So far the meals have consisted of 4 meals a day (approx 8, 12, 4 and 8pm) and have consisted of two bone (known as RMB – raw meaty bone) meals and two mince/mince and veg meals per day.
1 chicken carcass OR 2 chicken wings OR AMP Turkey neck pieces OR Breast of lamb(with bones – get butcher to chop into about 5-6 oz portions for you)
AND
Approx 5 oz AMP mince with fruit/ vegetables OR approx 5 oz AMP Prize Choice mince (a raw egg can be added to this two or three times a week) OR Mince with pureed vegetables (if you do these in a liquidizer then remember to add water to aid the motor!)
AND
Also give liver/ heart/ tripe/ fish on at least a weekly basis – the books on raw feeding and the email groups give more information on this diet – these can all be added to the mince
The bone meals add the necessary calcium for bone growth and also have the added bonus of keeping teeth and gums healthy. To digest veg it needs to be pureed but whole carrots etc can be given as treats. Your Dobermann will also eat anything it can scavenge (or catch) whilst out – this is a quite normal, if unsavory to human, practice.
Give 4 meals a day until 14 - 16 weeks (when pup starts consistently missing one meal - add extra to other meals)
Give 3 meals a day until around 6 months
Give 2 meals a day for the rest of life or until old age dictates more
WORMING & INNOCULATIONS
This puppy has been wormed at 2 and 6/7 weeks of age using Panacure Liquid wormer.
Dobermanns should be wormed at 4 – 6 monthly intervals for the rest of their lives (bitches approximately 6 weeks after their seasons have finished when the worm larvae are on the “move”).
GROOMING
Brushing with a Zoom Groom or rubber horse brush two or three times a week and a daily rub with a damp wash leather are all that is required (along with the correct feeding and exercise of course) to keep the coat of a health Dobermann clean and shining.
Toenails - can grow quite long and need regular cutting or filing – I can demonstrate this for you. Dobermann’s feet should be tight and catlike and therefore their toenails should not touch the floor and are therefore unlikely to get worn down by exercise. Vet’s will rarely cut them short enough so you should learn to do this for yourself.
Teeth – If you continue with the Raw Diet then your Dobe’s teeth should remain clean and healthy. If you change to complete or tinned foods then brush your pups teeth with canine toothpaste regularly from a puppy to help avoid dental and gum problems in later life.
Eyes – just clean the corner where the grey “matter” collects overnight.
You will find that when your pup is teething at around 4 to 5 months its eyes may get very mucky – this is quite normal providing it is the usual grey colour and can be cleaned using a few drops of the water from a chilled used teabag (no milk). If it is white or any other colour refer to your vet.
Ears – there are various products available for cleaning ears – do not poke anything down into the ear. Ears are also affected by teething and will probably change shape or position for a while around this time.
TOILET TRAINING
The speed with which this is accomplished depends entirely upon you! The moment your puppy awakes, and when it finishes eating take, note – take (not put) it outside and use the word you are going to use for elimination. The moment it starts say the word firmly and then praise energetically.
Also go outside if you see the puppy looking at the floor or going around in circles – initially once an hour when awake will not be too often.
If the puppy makes a “mistake” indoors IGNORE IT and both of you go outside for a few minutes in case it wishes to go again. NEVER rub the puppies nose it it – this is the equivalent to rubbing a babies nose in its nappy, puppies have to learn bladder and bowel control just like any other young animal and this comes with age.
Always pick up after your Dobermann when you are out, a few plastic bags carried in your pocket are useful. This gives the anti-dog people one less thing to complain about and may eventually keep more parks etc open for us dog owners.
TRAINING
The Dobermann is a very intelligent animal and takes well to training. Dobermanns will also use that very intelligent brain for their own purposes rather than yours if they think they can get away with it! Do not allow your pup to chew your fingers even on the first day – Dobermann teeth should never come into contact with humans and the sooner they learn this the better. Nor should they be permitted to jump up – move your leg away and then praise and fuss immediately feet are on floor.
Puppies should be subjected to firm discipline from the start and discouraged from disobeying a command – once they know for sure what it means. Whilst they are very easy to train even at a tender age, they can become stubborn at 6 – 10 months of age and begin to show definite signs that they have a mind of their own! It is at this stage that you must assert your authority (not bullying but by being firm as you would with an awkward child).
The very first thing your puppy must learn is its name – it is your main link to your dog. This may sound obvious but you would be surprised how many dogs I found that did not know their names when I was taking obedience classes.
RECALL/COME – if you see your pup coming towards you say its name and “come” in a cheery tone of voice and praise well when it arrives at your feet. Again this may sound obvious but NEVER scold your puppy when it comes to you – even if you have been calling for an hour – it will associate coming to you as the end of playtime/scolding/no fun – not the association you want. Coming to the owner should always be a pleasant experience.
SIT or DOWN – again cheat! When you see your puppy sitting say “sit” or “down” and praise, do not say its name or the puppy may get up. Eventually (or very quickly if you are consistent) it will realise what the words mean and you will be able to use them to tell it what to do rather than what it is doing.
RETRIEVE - when your pup runs off with your slipper or shoe - NEVER shout or chase. Say - goooood puppy, what have you got, give it to me, clever dog . Talk all the time until you pup comes to you - you will then have a pup that brings you things rather than runs off with them.
I strongly advise you to take your puppy to obedience classes, for training and socialisation – they teach you to train your dog and, especially with male Dobermanns who may become a bit male-aggressive as they mature this can be invaluable.
If you wish to show your puppy there are also ringcraft classes available and Agility classes for the more energetic owner.
EXERCISE
Puppies should not be allowed to climb up and down stairs or go on formal walks until at least five or six months of age to give bones and cartilage time to grow and “set” and avoid damage to shoulders, hips etc
Until this time your puppy will probably dictate the amount of exercise required by charging around your garden or local park, especially if there is a canine companion to play with, and then collapsing in a heap when it has had enough.
BOOKS
There are many Dobermann and training books and if you are welcome to look though mine to see which would suit you, otherwise give me a ring and let me know what sort of book you are looking for and I will see if I can help
PROBLEMS & EMAIL LIST
I hope you will not have (m)any but if you do please do not hesitate to contact me and I will try to assist you. You are also welcome to join the email list I run for my "puppy" owners where you can chat to each other and talk to others who may be going though the same phase as you are with your pup
By westie lover
![[gb]](/images/flags/gb.png "United Kingdom")
Date 01.07.03 15:48 UTC
IS YOUR HOME READY?
Most puppies sleep in the kitchen as it has an easily cleaned floor, there will be “accidents” to begin with. Don’t think that it would be kind to have the puppy in your bedroom with you for the first few night and then move it elsewhere to sleep later on. Start as you mean to go on. If its winter and the room is unheated then the pup must have a high sided box, preferably with a lid and small entrance hole. A sturdy cardboard box, just big enough for the puppy to curl up in, is ideal to begin with. If you really want to buy the best bedding buy “Veterinary Bedding” from the pet shop or from the internet. It is expensive but will last for many years. Otherwise find an old woolly jumper, cut all buttons etc off, and line the box with that. If its something you have previously worn, so much the better, as it will accustom him to your “smell”.
If the weather really is freezing, then arrange for some heating at night, making sure it is safe, no electric bar fires or anything that could be knocked over or chewed. Even thought the puppy may have been sleeping in an outdoor kennel, it will have had its siblings to snuggle up to, and probably a heat lamp as well. Don’t cook him though, if you don’t shiver in the room with a T shirt on, he’ll be OK.
Go all around your house and garden and pretend a naughty toddler is coming to stay! Move all valuables out of reach. Children’s toys are a great favourite, and apart from upsetting the kids when the puppy mangles them, they can also be very dangerous if the puppy swallows something sharp or unsuitable, which they all will, given half a chance!
It’s natural for puppies to chew so make sure they can only get hold of their own toys and bones and not your best shoes or CD collection. If they do destroy anything in the early days, its your fault not theirs.
Make sure all live electrical cables are tucked under carpets or hidden in some way. Get into the habit of turning off appliances at the wall when they are not in use. Sadly death by electrocution is not uncommon.
Fill any gaps in between fitted furniture, i.e.: the gaps between kitchen units and appliances like washing machines and fridges. Bricks make a very handy “hole blockers”, puppies can very easily get wedged, and can even disappear right round behind units, and cannot get out again.
Check your garden fences, make sure your precious puppy cant escape. Don’t forget the gap under any garden gates. To begin with it will be small spaces that he can squeeze through, but later as he grows, he will need a secure fence at least 3 feet high for a Westie.
Check garden sheds, garages or outbuildings for anything dangerous. Slug Pellets, trays of car oil, antifreeze, insecticides and industrial cleaners and paint products are obviously deadly, but other things like liquid clothes conditioner are just as dangerous, if drunk or rolled in.
Garden ponds and swimming pools can also be dangerous. If they have straight or slippery sides then they may be deadly because also the puppy will probably survive falling in and may be able to swim to the side, but if he cant get out easily it wont take long to drown. Heavy duty metal mesh can be laid over ponds to make them safe. Swimming pools should be drained when not in use. When they are in use they MUST be either fenced so the puppy cannot enter the area or covered with a rigid cover.
I recommend that you make an indoor kennel or buy a wire mesh travelling cage. The puppy can have a cosy bed inside and will soon adopt this as their “home”, with the door left open most of the time. You can shut him in for short periods, while he’s having a day time nap so you can do house work that is impossible with a puppy about. Like washing the kitchen floor, which may need doing twice a day or so, until the house training is established.
The puppy can sleep safely without being disturbed. They are great for helping with house training over night. A puppy who is put to bed, having been fed a few hours earlier, had a good play so he is tired, and a trip round the garden to empty himself, will sleep contentedly and you will wake up to a clean room. Puppies very seldom soil their bedding. You can also pop him in if your children have friends to play and the pup is getting too excited, or if you have a “non-doggy” visitor, or if you have to go out without him for short periods, maximum of a couple of hours. You can return home, safe in the knowledge that your home will not have been destroyed and your puppy will be safe. Crates are very useful, I wouldn’t have a puppy with out one, but must not be overused. 7 or 8 hours is the maximum he should be in it for overnight. No long Sunday lie-ins for you any more!!
At first, many people use cardboard boxes for a puppy’s bed. You can get a sturdy one, just bigger than the pup, cut an entrance hole out of the front and line with something cosy. They are easily replaced, so are very hygienic, and once he starts “shredding” them, you can buy a proper bed. The most popular are the rigid plastic ones sold in all pet shops, either oval or round. Avoid the ones with “ventilation” holes in the base as pups have caught their nails in them and ripped them out- ouch, very painful. Place newspaper under the bedding, so if the pup is damp, the paper can soak it up, it cannot evaporate in a plastic bed. Don’t buy bean bags or any “filled” beds like duvets, to begin with. They will almost certainly be chewed and the puppy may choke on the filling. You can get these types of bed/bedding when he has grown up a bit and stopped chewing everything.
Buy a heavy ceramic water bowl and a steel or ceramic feed bowl. Don’t use plastic. Apart from being chewed and played with like Frisbees, plastic is now recognised as not being a good container for food or drinks, and may affect the pups mouth and tongue and pigmentation. (Black colouring to the nose and muzzle)
GOING HOME
So you have decided to buy a puppy and are going to collect it. If at all possible take an adult or older child with you to hold the puppy on their lap for the journey home. If this is not possible then you will have to borrow or buy and travelling box or crate. If the puppy is no more than 9 weeks it should fit into a collapsible cardboard container that are available from most vets. They cost about £5. Or you may be able to borrow or hire one.
Whatever you do, don’t pick up a puppy on your own, with no safe crate or container. You cannot drive and see to a puppy loose on the seat. He will have no “ car balance” at all and the first time you brake-even gently- he will fall straight off the seat, on to the floor. If he’s loose on the floor he will automatically graduate towards you, and there is a very high chance he will get stuck under a seat or even worse under the pedals. A puppy wedged under the brake pedal is no joke, believe me! He will not stay in an open bed or basket, and he will also probably be sick all over the car.
Take a couple of old towels and a kitchen roll. Puppies are almost always sick on their first few journeys in the car, even if the breeder has done the right things, like not feeding him for a couple of hours before hand. So prepare any “puppy holders” for this. If the puppy is sick on the way home, just ignore it and clean the puppy up, he cant help it and if he is feeling sick you must be kind, so no telling him off for being sick in the car. Put one towel on the holders lap and have another ready, with the kitchen roll within reach.
If the weather is hot in the summer time, arrange to pick up the puppy either early morning or late afternoon when the sun is not so hot, especially if you have along journey. If you have a really long journey home – say more than 4 hours the pup will need the opportunity to relieve himself, though he may not actually do anything. If this is the case, line out the boot or hatchback with newspaper and after 4 hours stop somewhere safe and let him loose in this area for a few moments so he can have a wee if he wants to. Be very careful he does not jump or fall out of the car, don’t take your eyes off him even for a moment. Its probably better not to give him anything to drink unless he has either: been sick several times or he is panting because the weather is hot, or you have been on the road for more than 5 hours. If he needs a drink he should have one, but try and stop for half an hour or so, so that he has a chance to keep it down for a while, so it can do him some good. He may throw up again as soon as you set off, but at least you will have done your best!
Make sure he is in the shade, in the car, it may mean the “holder” has to sit in the rear of the car with the puppy if the sun is shining onto the front passenger seat. If he is travelling in a crate, if it will fit on the floor behind the passenger seat, this will be ideal, as he will be out of the sun and firmly wedged, as you can slide the front seat up to the crate so that it cant move. If this is not possible then the crate must be secured with seat belts and/or bungee clips, so the crate wont move around in the car. This is important for your safety too, as if you are unlucky enough to have an accident or have to brake hard, a crate can become a flying missile, and be just as dangerous for the humans in the car as the little pup inside. If the crate is going on a rear seat, you may need to level it, with towels underneath. Many car seats are not level and the pup will constantly be sliding about, inside the crate.
Once you have set off, go straight home, no stops on the way, unless you have to stop for the puppy’s needs. If a car door is opened, make sure the puppy cant escape, and if you need a “comfort” stop, then be as quick as you can, lock the car up, leave every window open a tiny bit, park in the shade, and cover the crate, so no-one can see him. If it’s really hot, you are on your own, and there is no shade to park in, you will just have to wait!! Make sure you are “comfortable” before you leave the breeders premises. It is very unlikely that the puppy has even worn a collar before, let alone be lead trained. So, don’t put a collar on him in the car, he will hate it, and associate the car with discomfort. Don’t whatever you do try to “take him for a walk” on the side of the road to relieve himself, if he’s never had a lead on before, he will almost certainly struggle and escape. Puppies are very good at getting out of incorrectly fitted collars. This happened to a puppy I sold once, he was killed by a car before they even got him home.
ARRIVING HOME
Carry him from the car and straight into the garden, once everyone is in, shut any gates and put him down on the floor. Be quiet and calm and encourage him to follow you round the garden for a few moments. He may just lie down and be too frightened, being in a strange place with strange (to him) people. Hopefully he’ll sniff about and have a wee, but if not don’t worry just pick him up and take him indoors. Keep him in the same room as you and show him his water bowl, full of fresh water, tinkle your fingers in it so he can hear that its something to drink. If he has slept all the way home he may be quite lively, or of course if he cried all the way home he will be exhausted. Be very kind and talk sweetly to him, to give him confidence in this strange place. Let him be with you until he falls asleep and them pop him in his bed.
About an hour after he has arrived, or once he wakes up later, offer him his food. He may take a few days to eat well, he is used to eating with his siblings and may be too tired or worried to eat well. Don’t worry, just make sure he has a chance to eat in peace, don’t have the whole family standing there watching him! Remove what he hasn’t eaten after 20 minutes or so, and offer him food again at a “proper” meal time.
As long as he isn’t sick or has very loose motions, there will be nothing to worry about. If he is sick or looks depressed and miserable for more than an hour or two, then ring your vet, Tummy troubles are quite common in newly bought puppies, but occasionally it can be very serious, so if he is obviously poorly, don’t “wait till the morning to see how he is”.
Take him to the vet the following day, anyway, even if he appears fine, to have a thorough check up, so you can be confident you have bought a healthy puppy.
BEDTIME
Wherever the puppy is to sleep, at bedtime, put him to bed, after a meal a couple of hours earlier, a good play and trip round the garden to hopefully empty himself. Put him to bed, with a couple of safe toys, shut the door and go to bed. Personally, I never go down to them again till the morning, no matter what sort of a racket they make. Some pups will only cry for a night or two, and the trick is to ignore them. If you start going down to him, he’ll think you will always come if he cries, and it will take much longer for him to settle at night. You can put a ticking clock in the room, as it is supposed to help them sleep, sounding a bit like a heartbeat. He will never have slept on his own before and is bound to be lonely. If he only cries for a couple of nights, you are lucky, sometimes it takes up to a fortnight. Don’t go down to tell him off either, it isn’t his fault, and mustn’t be punished for this, just ignored.
In the morning, if he is not confined in a crate, there will be mess on the floor. Take him straight out into the garden and then come back and clean it up. He must not be told off at all for making a mess overnight, if you weren’t there to let him out he MUST NOT be blamed at all. Just clean it up and don’t hold it against him, always remember he’s just a little baby, who has lost his mum and siblings, and needs love and encouragement.
Take him out every hour, or after a meal or long drink, and immediately he wakes after a nap. Don’t put him out, you have to go out with him, and as soon as he starts to “perform” say “Good boy, be clean” and keep saying it until he’s finished. It wont be long before, whenever you say “ Be clean” he will go if he needs to. This is very handy before a journey, or if you have to go out and leave him for an hour or so.
.
By westie lover
Date 01.07.03 16:00 UTC
GROOMING
Comb your puppy EVERY day to remove loose hairs and keep him tangle free and clean. Do this on a convenient surface and always keep hold of him with one hand so he cannot fall off. If you have to do something like answer the phone or move away from the surface, pick him up and carry him or put him on the floor. DON’T leave him there for a moment without being held - he will fall or jump off. Start behind the ears and work down in the same direction as the coat all over his body including the tail. Then do each leg in turn, not forgetting the insides of the legs and under the arm pits/groin – these are where they can get bad tangles. Your puppy has dew claws on the inside of his lower front legs, so always comb downwards to prevent snagging them. Lift him up with his forepaws to comb his tummy, but watch out for his/her “equipment”!! Comb his tail and then last of all do the head. Get him used to having his ears inspected and feet picked up without struggling. Be cheerful but firmly insistent that you finish the job. If you do this every day he will be much easier to manage at the groomer’s and vets and is very good for his general training and discipline
BATHING
Don’t bath on a regular basis it is not good for his skin and may start off skin problems if you bath him too often. Obviously puppies being puppies you will have to bath him sometimes. If he gets muddy, let him dry and then comb thoroughly, this will usually get a dog clean again. If he does get grubby and you have to bath him, just use plain water and only shampoo if you cannot get him clean with warm water. Always use a good quality Puppy Shampoo, even on adult dogs and when you think you have rinsed it all out – rinse again!! Dry well with towels and then to finish off you can use a hairdryer on a medium setting. Hold it about 12” away from his body and keep it moving so you don’t scorch him. Make sure he is completely dry before you let him go outside again. Bella my puppy who lives in the house is 11 months old and has 3 baths in her whole life!
EXERSISE
Your puppy does not need exercising, as such for some months. It is very important not to over exersise young puppies as it can damage their joints, especially of the hind legs and some believe, can bring on a condition called Legge Perthes which causes lameness, and can usually only be corrected by expensive surgery. Until vaccinations are completed playing around the house and garden is all the exersise required, your puppy will let you know when he is tired. Once vaccinations are complete you can walk your puppy for 5 minutes twice a day, gradually increasing to 15 minutes once a day at about 6 months. The risk of contracting Perthes diminishes greatly by 10-12 months and by then you can exersise more. By 14 months they are approaching maturity and can go out with you for as long as he stays lively. Adult Westies are very tough and enjoy whole days out with you in the countryside, but you must take care while they are young not to over do it. Of course while he is small you can “walk and then carry” so you don’t get too bored with such short walks, and he can rest in your arms. Also don’t let him run up and downstairs while small, apart from being dangerous when they are very small (often they can get up, but not down again safely) again it is not good for their joints and development. Don’t encourage him to jump from any height, lift him off furniture etc, if he is allowed on the chairs sofa’s etc
GROWLING
At some point, whilst grooming or when you want your puppy to do something he doesn’t want to, he may growl at you or even try to bite. Almost all of them will try this on at some point. This must be very firmly discouraged AT ONCE. When they are small – when it is most likely to happen, I say NO, loudly and angrily and pick the puppy up by the scruff of his neck
(which is what his mother would do) and give a quick shake, put him down on the floor and ignore him for a few minutes, or if you were grooming carry on doing it. Don’t hold a grudge though and as soon as the incident has passed, forget it and treat him just as you did before. Some “behavourists” these days say to ignore bad behaviour like this, but I disagree strongly with this when it is aggression. Terriers are specifically bred to be brave and fearless, but they must not be allowed to boss YOU around. If you don’t come down hard on this “try-on” straight away, they will think they have the upper hand and you will have more behaviour problems rearing their ugly head.
If you deal with it properly the first time, he is very unlikely to ever do it again. If you do have any problems with your puppy’s behaviour please don’t hesitate to contact me, and I will do my best to help.
I realise some people will not agree with my methods above – but if they have’nt bred and reared terriers then its understandable. They have a different temperament to most other breeds and will soon terrorize the whole family if allowed to!! Honest. I find that the short swift treatment above is only ever needed once and they don’t often challenge you again. You just have to show them once, that its not tolerated!!
