I'm sure it was on this board that someone advised that a walking stick could be a useful training aid for heelwork. I've done a search but can't seem to find the post. From memory I think it might have been Mr Murphy or Liz.

Anyway, as I had tried every method and contraption I could think of to stop my small dog from pulling on the lead, I started taking a stick with me on our walks. I hold it just in front of his head and, although he will try to dodge around it, he walks much closer to me than he did. I feel that, with a bit more perseverance, we might just get there !

I wanted to look back at the post to see if it contained any other advice or tips when using this method. Can anyone else remember it ?

Can't recall the post Joyce, but I have a method. I loop a long lead arond my left leg and walk slowly, so the dog gets a little - note LITTLE - tug unless it stays at heel

Hi Sharon.
Reading your post reminded me of the first time I walked my two dogs together. With 10 legs and two leads I got myself into a right old tangle ! Caused a bit of amusement for passers-by ! :)

Hi Joyce
it was in idle chat but it's gone now I (liz) asked mr murphy how he trained his dogs to walk to heel and to walk past other dogs ,his advice was to take a stick with you and when the dog moves out of line just touch his font leg gently and it interferes with their step and they realise that they are getting nowhere fast I am using this method as murphs tends to drift forward and so far so good
hth :)
Liz
Mick I hope thats an accurate rendition of what you said ;)

Thanks, Liz - I thought I hadn't imagined it ! :D

I'm glad this method is working for you as well - I suppose the idea is that, after about ten years, they get the idea and you can leave the stick at home ! :)

Joyce it is working but murphy is getting wise to the stick and is now developing a sort of hop !!and his legs are long so he just steps over it sometimes :D
it has taken the strain out of my shoulder though !!!;)
Liz

Try a hunting whip....it works wonders.(no you don't hit them with it, before anyone starts!!!)

When I was training Junior to walk beside me.I would walk and the minute he would get in front I would turn around and walk the other way and say heel,once he was beside me I would tell him how good he was and keep him focused on me. If he passed again I would do it again. I seen it on a show on dog training and thought I would try it. It has worked so far.He is really good with his right and left turns now to,I never trip on him. I never heard of the stick,but I'll keep that in mind incase this fails with any of my dogs.

Sam beat me too it :-) I was going to suggest a riding crop. It is small and light weight but the dogs have a lot of 'respect' for it, even though they have never been struck with it. I'm not sure why it works .. but it does for me ;-)

Sam I tried that one - I always keep a rinding crop in the house as the only safe way to break up (thankfully rare) fights between giants. But as a walking to heel aid it didn't work - they ate the ruddy crop :-)

At the moment I'm using a garden cane:D when I take the beast out I have a long horse rope for practising recalls ( cos he's crap ) At this rate I'm going to need a trailer for all the extra equipment ;) what happened to care free dog walking ? :D
Liz
ps ;is a rinding crop and a ruddy crop the same as a riding crop :D :D

Steve, it was the ruddy riding crop :-)

:D

Hi Liz
Try tripping Murph up by lifting the stick higher in anticipation of his hop, let him know you are smarter than him, and that you know what he's thinking.
Mick

Hello Joyce
Ive just seen your post. I have used the stick several times with different dogs to make them walk in line and at my pace. Like Liz is using a garden cane, the stick should be long enough to reach the ground in front of the dog. Keep the dog on a short lead so that the dogs hind legs cant be in front of you(This reduces the dogs pulling power). You then use the stick to stop the dog from pulling, every time the lead goes tight, put the stick at his front legs and make his step falter. If you want him to stop. Put the stick across his chest and jam it against the wall etc, to create a barrier.(A stout walking stick gives you a stronger barrier than canes etc) All the time reinforce your actions with voice commands ie, stop,wait,sit,heel,etc. The stick is also used to stop the dog trying to change sides by walking behind your back, just put the stick out behind you to stop him. When you are ready to teach him to walk on past animals,kids with ice lollies, etc, let him out further on a longer lead and when an animal approaches and they make a move towards it you take the tension on the lead touch the dog on its hind quarters(You will quickly identify the most effective area to touch) and tell it to walk on.
I hope this helps you. All the best Mick.

Let me know if I can help you out with anymore info.
As for riding crops and whips. The wife wont let me take them out the house.

are you bragging or complaining :D :D
Liz

A bit of both.

Thanks for your advice and info, Mick. I have been using a walking stick every evening this week. The first couple of days were very promising - Buddy made sure he stayed a few inches behind it. However he now seems to be getting a bit more used to it and tries to do a nifty sidestep to try to get in front.

Because he's only a small dog (approx 12" at the shoulder), I have to make sure the stick is held quite near the ground for it to be effective. I have to hold the stick in my right hand (lead is in left) to get the angle right - is this correct ? Sometimes I feel that a long handled tennis racket might be better, but there are limits as to how much of a fool I am prepared to make of myself !! :D

At first I was full of hope and determination but with the regression of the past few days I'm not so sure if it's going to work. I come back from our walks quite exhausted. My shoulders and back have started aching with the tension of trying to get it right.

Buddy is so biddable and obedient indoors and yet outside he seems to forget he's with me !

Regards,
Joyce

I use a halti on my pulling dog....he has his own method of dealing with it since he does not like it pulling on his nose...he takes a nice loop of his lead in his mouth...and proudly walks at heel.Whenever we do not use a halti...he does his best to galop along.So...a halti it is.My other 2 dogs have always accepted walking to heel...this one thinks he is smarter than us!!!

I'm glad the halti works with your dog. As well as the halti, I have tried the lupi and the walkezee. They have an effect for about two or three days but, somehow, this smart little dog manages to work out how he can obligingly wear these contraptions but still find a way of pulling !! :)

Joyce

This may be controversial - but when I first got my youngest GSD and he pulled ahead on the lead out for a walk I used to flick his butt with the end of my leash when it drew just ahead of level with my left knee. It's short, sharp and to the point - and more to the point he didn't see where it came from because I was ready with a bit of slack at the end of the lead to administer the correction very fast. As with most elements of dog training timing is crucial.
I'm not talking pain but just enough of a flick to surprise him which made him spin round. Then with an innocent expression I'd tell him heel and put him back in the correct position.
After a very short time I would only have to say 'heel' when he started to surge ahead and he would drop back immediately. He now walks nicely with a slack lead.
I really couldn't think of anything more of a pain than being tied to carrying a stick to poke at my dogs feet. Each to their own but that method is not for me at all. Mine aren't daft - the day I didn't carry it would be the day they pulled on the lead again!! :)

You're right, Lara, it is a nuisance having to carry the stick and I am beginning to doubt whether it is the best approach for my dog.

I don't think the leash flick method is harsh at all, I'm sure it just acts as a quick reminder to the dog. However, I don't think it would work with mine - he's the kind of dog that would say 'oh, what was that ?..hmm, nothing to worry about...let's get on with this walk'.

I have been trying for 5 months now to stop Buddy pulling - I don't necessarily want him walking tight to heel, just a comfortable pace with no tension on the lead. One of these days, hopefully, he will get the idea !! :)

Goodmorning everyone
I never trained my dogs with a stick, they never needed it. I used it on other dogs who were older and untrained. The dogs I have used it on now walk fine off or on the lead. The owners dont need to carry a stick anymore. My own dogs walk on or off lead and walk past people kids dogs etc, I believe that this is because I have taught them to do this from as young as 12 weeks. Flicking the dogs butt with a lead is no different to touching it with the stick. It has the same effect.
I would also like to say that I would'nt say my method is going to work for anyone else. There must be better ways if you know them. This method works for the bull terriers I have dealt with, but I have no experience in dog training other than with my own dogs.
Regards Mick.

i have just got a two year old labrador who almost pulls my arm out of it's socket, he now has a halti but still manages to pull when i least expect it. my other dog ( an 8yr old lab/staff/whippet cross) is brilliant he walks off the lead, sits when he comes to a road and waits until he told to cross.
my lab (JAZZ) is not as bad as he could be but he is no where near as good as my X-breed (SAM) and having had Sam from a puppy i have no idea how to go about training Jazz as he is that much older.
Any suggestions would be appreciated

thanking you all in advance. :)