my boxer, 7 wk old, has recently been weaned.he came to me yesterday,but had over two hour drive.later today he has had diarrhea.i spoke to the breeder he came from n also my vet who suggested not feedin him til bout 9 tonight,n also recommended tryin some egg n chicken or egg n rice.this is fine but im unsure whether i need to cook the egg cos of the age my puppy is?

I used to scramble the eggs with the shell and all. I also used goats milk. Its not unusual for a puppy to get an upset tum after a long journey home and he is only 7 weeks old.

are egg yolks ok for a dog every day?  I'm currently sharing my house with a fitness fanatic and he eats 3 egg whites every night and the dog gets the yolks.  she loves this deal but since it is the yolks that contain the cholesterol and fat is this a problem?

I have a vague memory that dogs don't get bothered with furred arteries and stuff like that but not sure.  Any CD'ers shed any light on this for me?  Does my poochy have to forgo her fav treat?

Ali egg yolks are fine to give dogs :) It's the whites that have been discussed as causing problems.Cholesterol and fat shouldnt be a problem.Dogs need much more fat than us.
I bet your dogs coat is going to be as shiny as a mirror getting all of those yolks.Biotin is brilliant for coat health.

One of the biggest causes of loose stools in puppies in over eating.

Whatever you do don't start chopping and changing the food as it may make it worse.

An early vaccination, (didnt one of your other posts say he had been jabbed at 6 weeks?) over eating, a long journey, maybe worms if he's not been wormed, or the combination of wormer and vaccination given close together, could have caused this problem with his tum. On another post you say your breeder has this problem with another puppy she has released? As Blue says, don't chop and change his food.

so whats best - raw or cooked for a pup?yes was vaccinated early,hasnt been wormed as yet,will do this when tum settles down.the vet didnt want 2 vaccinate and worm together as this might make him a little ill,plus he was aware that the pup would be travelling.i havent seen any worms in his poo (would i be able to see them) and i have been looking.this is the 1st thing i looked for when i saw blood.yes a similar prob with another pup,but no bleedin just the runs.she spoke to her vet however n ni spoke to mine about this.apparently its common when travelling first time,but shouldnt only be a tiny bit n not last long either

A pup should be wormed at least twice before leaving for it's new home.  Have you not got a worming certificate in his paperwork, as worming starts around 3 weeks of age, and depending on what is used they are done 2 to 4 weekly after that.

I'm surprised that your breeder didn't give you details of worming to date ( I even gave wormer and syringes so that they continued with the same brand) so please ring and ask for the information.

You are obviously a reasonable distance from the breeder so it may also be the change in water. If so it should settle within a couple of days without messing with food.  As you were advised on another thread it may be a good idea to gradually change over his food to something of a higher quality.

Best Wishes

Andrea

i have just rang my breeder.dog hasnot been wormed as yet.she gave me the wormer to start with but i cant find it but im goin to buy drontal anyway i think so noo hardship.im goin to get it 2 m so long as his poo stays normal.because he hasnt been wormed shall i just get a wormer n carry on as normal,every 2 wks?when do i change to monthly?

Hmm..... a breeder that doesn't worm their puppies and is happy for you to breed from him

Whenever our boy has had a bout of the runs we have given him boiled chicken and rice until he poo is back to normal then weaned him back on to his normal food. I agree with the others though, the stress of leaving mum and travelling for a while could have easily caused this, just keep an eye on it and make sure he has plenty of water to drink. Also i would book an appointment with your own vet who will be able to give you worming stuff and talk you through when to do it etc.

I'm sure he will be fine

:rolleyes:  You need to get him to the vet asap and ask for some decent wormer and follow the vets advise on frequency and dosage.  Poor little chap.  I suspect that if he hasn't been wormed his mother may not have been either so he may be carrying quite a burden.

Perhaps there may be a breeder of boxers on here who will be able to give some ideas from their puppy sheet - the feeding information may be useful (excluding the type of food) and also general care tips as your breeder does not seem to be able to support you as he or she should. 

Best Wishes

Andrea

apart frpm this my bredder has been very good and i certainly dont have a bad word to say about her.she has brought a fantastic dog into my life and has started to train him too,n has done extremely well on this.i have spoken to her several times since i have taken the pup away,as she has also called me to find out how benson is n whther getting any better.she has given me her home and mob no as well as her email addy so i am able to get hold of her when i need to.she is also sending me on any information she had from his grandparents and aprents that she had,as well as copies of parents vet stuff - forwarding this when papers arrive which were sent off this week so shouldnt be long now.she has also given me some useful info about studding him.altho i realise that not worming him was not good practice, i wouldnt mock her for anything.she has been v supportive and answered all my q's and been honest when she can not give me an answer.she has bred many times,twice off bensons mother and also off another boxer she has kept.i know that particularly this time round she has had a lot of probs (not with puppys or parents health).i can imagine that with a litter of7, and a child of 3 and 6 can be quite a handful and it must be very easy to overlook things.i know that she was intending to worm him 2 wk before we got him,not entirely sure why this wasnt followed up.def go vet 2m and sort this out!

I am sorry but if this breeder is supposed to be experienced and responsible you should not have been sold a pup who has not been wormed at least twice, without dietary advice being fed just 3 times a day.

They didn't have to breed this litter, so excuses about being busy with family life just don't wash.

Also you there is no real excuse not to have his registration documents as the turn around with the Kennel club with registrations is virtually by return of post.

What are the parents Hip scores, heart scores?

The breeder should know everything there is to know about generations of the dogs behind your pup.

From the little you have told us this breeder does not appear from their breeding practises to be a knowledgeable person.  they may in fact be well meaning and nice, but that is far from enough.

Here is an idea of what a breeder ought to be: http://st15.startlogic.com/~justonel/breeder.html

Oh emma thats a bit dire wormer doesnt cost that much yes i guess it does with a litter of 7 + but it goes without saying its done.. Busy or not if she was that busy she shouldnt have been breeding from the bitch this time until she had more time available and at the sound of it finances too..

Are you saying also you havent got the papers yet any reputable breeder would have had them sent off and returned before the pups left home its not rocket science to fill them in... (unless they didnt have the finances spare? which seems to indicate a litter compromised) :(

It's irrelevant how much worming costs or how busy the breeder is :rolleyes:.  The bitch should have been wormed properly while in whelp and the puppies should have been wormed properly as a matter of routine, full stop, no excuses.  This is absolutely basic practice and is inexcusable.

I have cut and pasted the information on feeding that I used in my puppy information sheet.  It is specific to Bichons so the bit about beef may not apply to boxers and there may be things that apply to boxers that I don't know about but generally it will give you some idea of how I would feed.  I would also urge you to seek out some breed specific books as these may give you a greater insight into bringing up your boxer.

Feeding

Bichons are notoriously picky eaters.  Your puppy has been weaned on James Wellbeloved puppy and you have been given a supply of this to take home.  He is currently being fed four times a day at regular intervals between 7.30am and 10.30pm.  Over the coming few weeks he may become disinterested in one of his meals and you may drop to three meals a day at regular intervals although this should not be done until he is at least twelve weeks old.  Until your puppy has all of his teeth you should grind his food into smaller pieces and soak with hot, boiled (not boiling) water for a few minutes before you give it to him. 

Always clear uneaten food away after ten or fifteen minutes as the puppy should not get used to 'grazing'.  He will soon learn to eat when he has the opportunity if you maintain this rule.

If you wish to change from the JWB diet it is important that you do this gradually over five to seven days to ensure that you don't upset your puppy's tummy.  Under no circumstances should you give your Bichon beef in any form as he will find this very difficult to tolerate and it can cause over heating which may result in hot spots. 

Although your Bichon may look at you with sad eyes when you are eating your own food it is important not to over indulge in tit bits as they very quickly cause weight problems and a fat Bichon is not a fit Bichon.

Is your puppy going to be KC registered?  If so, did the breeder not give you a copy of the registration document so that you know that it has been submitted?

Andrea

Any info on the parents/grandparents you should have seen and have copies of all health tests (hip score for example) along with insurance, (its free with both the Kc and Pet Plan for 6 weeks, but of course without the papers the kc one can not be applied for, but she could have set up 6 weeks with pet plan, thats free to breeders). You should also have had the Kc registration document. Did she show you the Kc reg document for the bitch and the sire, and a pedigree for them? Were they advertised as Kc reg? The puppies should have been wormed, I can't understand why the vacc was given so early but as a vet gave it that is down to his qualified decision, not the breeder. Did you have the vaccination card, duly signed and stamped by the vet from that practice? What advice did she give regarding 'studding' your dog?

Looking forward, you really do need to get this puppy to a vet for a health check, regardless of when the vaccinations are due, take with you the vaccination card if you have it, and make sure you tell your vet this puppy has never been wormed yet. As soon as possible.

its obvious you care vey deeply for this little chap, so keep posting if you have worries, where he came from is not the point now, making sure he is ok and progresses well is the main thing. :)

Quite agree, but what the poster needs to realise that if their breeder is so lacking in the basics anything they have to say about the pups potential as breeding material needs to be taken with a large dose of salt.

He may turn out a super male, and his pedigree may be excellent even if his breeder was slapdash, but I would be looking for advice from much better breed sources from now on.  Join the breed club,  Get pup to ring craft and training classes, Show him, and then if he does well someone may want to use him on their bitches, but to be honest this is unlikely as most breeders will be looking to use top class males with owners who are used to stud dogs and all that having visiting bitches to them entails.

A breeder themselves needs to know their own lines in depth knowing what the relatives have produced in terms of good and bad traits.

A stud dog owner needs to have such knowledge for their own males and most of the lines in the breed so they can ascertain if a proposed match is advisable.

Generally people have been breeding for quite some while before they offer males at stud.  the only time a an ethical Novice will allow their dog to be used is if they have the impartial help of experts in the breed who can advise them on these matters.

When I refer to breeders I mean true breeders who are acting as custodians for the breed, not peopel who simply produce litters of puppies with little thought or care.

of course I agree brainless, it's just there are so many posts from this poster in different places, and no one is happy with the breeder. I think that point has been made quite clear, but what is needed now is for this poster to be guided and the health of the puppy advised on. Hopefully all aspects of health and breeding will be taken on and discussed here, and they will see that perhaps breeding is not a good idea. Also, for anyone else reading, a perfectly good example of why its best to go to a reputable breeder and buy the best, not the cheapest from someone who sounds very inexperienced, despite how many litters have been bred or dogs owned. Only time will tell. :)

The Boxer gut is a very sensitive thing! When it is out of kilter it can take some time to stabilise. Sticking to one type of premium quality food through thick and thin is usually the answer.
Unfortunately a boxer ' breeder' who doesn't worm her animals routinely and then omits to worm the resulting puppies, runs the risk of damaging their little developing intestines. Added to that they let their puppies go rather early and seem to use their own stud dog routinely ( encouraging pet owners to do the same) ...... oh dear!!!!

Really would stress to take your puppy to the vets asap to get checked over etc. It is good that you are posting on here it shows that you care about your puppy. I'm sure once he is checked over and you get some advice from your vets he will be fine and give you lots of joy as they really are a gorgeous breed.

Regardless of what you may think of the breeder i would come on here for advice as no matter how busy they are with children they shouldn't forget such important things!

i fear that i may have put some noses out of joint about the studding topic.i might not be that experienced as yet,but i would not go into this light heartedly.he starts puppy classes in 2 weeks,n going to show him 2.what age can i start showing him can any1 tell me?weve already discussed how we would go about studding and what we would do.one thing that i have noticed on this forum is the question about what to inc in opuppy packs so we have said that we would go along to breeders with bitches with items for puppy packs and handouts.i did see my kc papers which are currently awaiting from kc,and saw some paper work from parents,and lists about previous history with family which she is sending with papers.im not sure if she was going to give me a copy of these but when we got there n she showed me them i explained that i was keen to stud and so she offered me a copy of these.
i do realise that its a lot of work n im sure i will face a lot of hurdles but im keen to do this.i am quite young myself n i intend to have boxers for the rest of my life,n altho experience is not top notch right now,i will learn more as time goes on.i just think altho i am bein advised to not stud, i also think that we should bare in mind that every1 starts somewhere n this is my starting point.
i no my breeder has not been 100% either but from all these probs ive faced,it is teachin me more n more aboiut the future ie info which is important for owners to have which i did not get in complete eg how n where to heart test which i now no.
i am already enjoying my baby regardless of these teething probs - asides these hiccups he is a real good dog,altho he really hurts every time he attacks a moving foot!!!

I don't understand why you are thinking of putting him to stud when he is only a few weeks old. Perhaps you could give us a reason for wanting to do this? At this stage you will have no idea how he will turn out.

You could also give yourself a problem with a hyperactive breed, in as much once he has tasted mating a bitch he could be trying it on with every dog he meets, which does not make a walk very pleasurable for anyone.  This is an especially important consideration if you live in an area where you have to walk him with other dogs around.

I am not having a go at you, far from it, I am just curious as to why someone thinks of 'studding' their dog at such an early stage.

Emma,

Not every dog is a show dog, there is alot of training that goes into gdogs (they don't just stand automatically), i would get yourselves to puppy classes, work through obedience and see where you are when he is trained to an acceptable standard. You will have lots of hurdles to overcome even with him just being a family pet, adolesence etc to name a few!

Please just take it one day at a time, no one is saying that you need to be an expert straight away but normally if people are really serious they do alot of research before acquiring their puppy and then pick a breeder whom they could use as a mentor. It really isn't for the faint hearted and i think we can safely say if done properly (health tests etc) then there really isn't a profit to make, in fact talking to a friend of mine they made a huge loss because of complications and as a stud dog owner you can't just walk away if the bitch or puppies encounter problems.

If you really love boxers which i'm sure you do please put all your effort into making him a wonderful pet first and foremost then consider everything else down the line.

Boxers are a rather modern 'man-made' breed and therefore it is very unusual for dogs to do well in the showring unless they come from well bred, show winning parents. I cant remember seeing a big winner (or any winner for that matter) whos parents I've never heard of or at least the kennels that bred them. Similarly good heart scores usually produce good heart scores.
I suspect you will end up like a great many of us when venturing into the show ring for the first time with our 'perfect dog and breeding specimen', a rude awakening.
My first boxer had semi-erect ears but I thought she was perfect and was hugely offended when I asked the judge at her first show why she wasn't placed, her reply was that the only good thing about her was her colour!!
Not true infact, she had an American champion father and (what later became) a UK champion sister. the breeding was there.

But if we are serious we take off our rose coloured specs, look dispassionately at our pride and joy and accept they are not top drawer, as few of us are lucky enough to have that winner first time around, in my case I didn't get top drawer until my fourth, and a reasonably good exhibit with my third.  My first was a good honest typy bitch (her litter brother became a champion), but nothing special, as was her daughter, was pleased if we placed in a large class, or won a small one.

You can have a lot of fun learning with that first dog, and of course you will love them just the same and be taking the best dog home.  this time gives you a chance for a couple of years to study the breed, develop and eye and then approach the breeders with the type that most appeal for that real show prospect.  Of course even then there are no guarantees, else the breeders choice of pup would always be a top winner.

A good site for how shows work etc is here: http://www.prodogs.co.uk/  On the left are links like tips for beginners.

This reminds me of a couple of months ago, when my daughter nearly ran over 2 boxer bitches running loose in the road.

She stopped the car thankfully and I dragged in what i thought were 2 puppies, they were so small and thin. They madly ran around our garden and drank long and hard from our dogs outdoor water bowl. By just looking at them, I knew they had been cooped up somewhere and quite possibly been dumped! The older one looked like she had recently had a litter and the younger bitch was coming in, or was in season.

After much searching, the owners were found and a young boy turned up without leads asking for the boxers back, he would manage???? I refused him of course and asked for a parent.
His father turned up in his car and bundled the duo into the boot, cursing the boy as he did, as it was him that had let them out and his wife was going mad.

The girls were mother and daughter, owned by the wife, the backyard breeder!!!!
It's a nice little earner when the only occupation you have is as a local taxi driver and E-bay seller.
These poor dogs are nothing but breeding machines and will live out their lives paying for their owners holidays and new carpets when called for.

It makes you think and it breaks your heart as there is nothing anyone can do. our dogs and the dogs who are owned by the careing folk on this forum have the best life we can give them and are always the center of the household. They are our resposibility always and I find it hard to comprehend how can someone else do that kind of thing to such a beautiful and trusting animal????

No-one on here is getting at anyone else, or accusing, but once you have encountered this kind of situation, or have been involved in dogs for a long time, it will be easier for you to understand the passion and anger that possible puppy farming or backyard breeding can evoke, even if there is just a sniff of it.
And by then, you'll be a careing and considerate owner who loves her dogs and will do anything for them.
I do hope the pup is OK and it really is a good idea as advised on here already to get a vet check, not just because the pup is not to well, but as a careing owner, that's what we do with any new addition to the pack as a matter of course.

Grrrrrrit makes you mad!!!!!

i did see my kc papers which are currently awaiting from kc,

Bit confused here Emma, if the breeder had already Kc reg the puppies, why did she not hand over the document when she handed over ownership? She should have signed the rear of the form transfering ownership to you, then you should have filled in your details and returned the document to the kc yourself (when you would have been able to have the 6 weeks free insurance) This transfer has a fee, and on return the document would have shown you as the new owner. As a matter of course, she should have provided you with copies of all the health tests and results the sire and dam had undertaken. If the Kc reg document was not to hand on sale, she should have (as advised by the Kc) given you a letter stating the kc was awaited, and that the puppy is eligable for registration and the papers will be forwarded when she receives them. Do you have the Kc name and number of the bitch, and the pups date of birth? you can check with the kc to see if this litter is registered with this info. Do you know what type of paperwork regarding registration she showed you? was it documents stating the kc reg for sire and dam, or was it a form with a list of names on it?

I agree everyone starts somewhere, and without meaning to have a dig at all Emma, it usually starts with joining the breed club, visiting shows, and eventually finding a breeder that is experienced and shows themselves, and allowing them to assist with the selection of your first show dog, not stud dog. a stud dog is something he may become after he has proved himself in the ring, together with all the necessary health tests. This breeder will have good results from the dogs she has used in her breeding program, will be able to advise on what these tests mean and what your health tests mean,  can then give you so much assistance during the early stages of your doggy 'career', and any later breeding issues as they will help with advising which bitch is suitable etc etc. Emma, its such a shame you didn't post here first! And breeding is such a huge topic!
Anyway, you have your lovely boy now, and if I were you I would be joining the breed club, then visiting any shows you can get to, and finding out where the ringcraft classes are held near you, and going along (without pup at first) and have a chat and book in your pup when they are ready to take him on. as soon as possible for him is best, let them advise you. Oh, and forget about using him as a stud for now, just enjoy all you do with him and hope he does well and his health tests results are good. Plenty of time in a couple of years to consider the breeding bit :)

Ditto  Calmstorm.. you beat me to it.

It is hard to be harsh to people but if someone has taken the time to decide they want to use a dog at stud etc they it is realitively easy to get puppy buying guidelines.  They are everywhere now , in vets, on the internet..

I wanted to add..

that i have noticed on this forum is the question about what to inc in opuppy packs so we have said that we would go along to breeders with bitches with items for puppy packs and handouts

This unfortunately doesn't make a good breeder and it is generally the job of the actually breeder to do this. The sales contract is between buyer and breeder.  Although I am sure the breeder would be happy for some freebies ;-)

.i did see my kc papers which are currently awaiting from kc,and saw some paper work from parents,and lists about previous history with family which she is sending with papers.im not sure if she was going to give me a copy of these but when we got there n she showed me them i explained that i was keen to stud and so she offered me a copy of these.

If the KC papers were there you would have been given them.  It is clear ( not is a disrespectful way) that you are a complete novice, even seeing the parents KC docs means nothing , they both may have endorsements on them prohibiting puppies being registered. I hope they are not but you just don't know.

i do realise that its a lot of work n im sure i will face a lot of hurdles but im keen to do this.i am quite young myself n i intend to have boxers for the rest of my life,n altho experience is not top notch right now,i will learn more as time goes on.i just think altho i am bein advised to not stud, i also think that we should bare in mind that every1 starts somewhere n this is my starting point.

Yes but the starting point isn't buying a pet boxer and putting it out to stud. You won't become popular in your breed doing that I can assure you. When you start you are best to contact breed clubs, buy the best bitch you can buy from a good , honest breeder who is only too happy to mentor you and help you enter the show world. 

I know it seems really hard what I and others are saying but tough love works kiddo ;-)  There are so many excellent Boxer kennels I know would have helped you.

Way off topic Locking