Could anyone explain to me briefly what Fagan will be expected to do if he does the Bronze good citizen ?  Unfortunately I cant access the KC website from work :(

Fagan got a certificate for passing his course last night but it doesnt look like his club do the good citizen (and I keep forgetting to ask :rolleyes: ) I was hoping to do it on Sunday at a companion show but im not sure what he has to be able to do.  Also what should be on his name tag ?  At the moment he just has his name and telephone number and I know thats wrong but its what I want on there, maybe ill borrow my mums dogs tag for the day :D :D

Also, although it says on the advert that they will be holding the Bronze KC good citizen, do you think I should phone up to book or will they be taking bookings on the day ?

Sorry so many questions, there is a possibility im having a bit of a blonde day :P

Thanks

Claire :)

From memory.
A sit or down stay for a few minutes. A recall. Demonstrating going through a door in a controlled manner. The dog letting you examine his paws, teeth etc. Walking to heal without being dstracted by other dogs. You also need to have a brush and pooh bag. The name and phone number on the tag was fine for us.

Control of Dogs Act 1992

Every dog while in a highway or in a place of public resort, shall wear a collar with the name and address of the owner inscribed on the collar or on a plate or badge attached thereto.

You can be fined up to £5,000 if your dog does not wear an identification disc.

KC Bronze Good Citizen Test

1. CLEANLINESS AND IDENTIFICATION
Each handler must carry with them some form of "poop scoop" and all dogs must wear a collar and identification tag. The owner should be reminded that they must always remove any fouling caused by their dog and carry with them some form of "poop scoop". Note: These essentials are part of the law.

2. COLLAR AND LEAD
Put on collar and lead. It is important that the collar and lead are suitable for type of dog and that the owner is able to fit them correctly. Note: A dog that becomes frightened can back out of a loose collar.

3. WALK ON LEAD
Walk on lead without distractions. The owner will be holding the lead with the dog by their side throughout this section. The dog should walk at the handler's side without undue pulling forward or back. Note: Competition heelwork is not the aim.

4. CONTROL AT DOOR/GATE
Walk on lead through Door/Gate. The owner will hold the lead and with the dog under control walk the dog through gate/doorway. Note: The objectives of exercise three also apply. The dog should not pull or be pulled through the doorway.

5. CONTROLLED WALK AMONGST PEOPLE AND DOGS
Walk on lead passing people and dogs. Behave in controlled manner whilst owner holds a conversation for one minute. The dog must be able to stand, sit or lie down in a quiet relaxed manner whilst the owner is holding a conversation for one minute. Note: The objectives of exercise three also apply. This is not a stay exercise.

6. STAY ON LEAD FOR ONE MINUTE
Stay in one position on command, on lead. The handler should place the dog with the lead attached in a position of their choice i.e. stand, sit or down. Upon instruction, having quietly dropped the lead on the ground next to the dog, the handler will move a distance of five paces away for a period of one minute. Note: The dog must stay in the position it has been left in, however minor movements within that position are acceptable. Extra commands are permitted but should not be excessive.

7. GROOM
Grooming should be performed relevant to the individual dog. Note: This exercise is a test of ability to keep the dog clean and healthy without a struggle. Handlers are required to provide their own grooming equipment. Any signs of aggression or nervousness while grooming the dog will be deemed not ready.

8. PRESENT FOR EXAMINATION
The examiner will be shown how a handler can examine their own dog. This exercise will be carried out on lead. The dog will be required to have its mouth, teeth, throat, eyes, ears and feet inspected when standing, sitting or lying down on either side or on its back. Note: This is a most important exercise and will require considerable care, expertise and patience on the part of the trainer. The average new owner may find this exercise difficult and frustrating. However, by ensuring that dogs are properly socialised before attempting this exercise and that this exercise is only carried out under careful supervision will success be achieved.

9. RETURN TO HANDLER
The handler will release the dog from lead, play with or without toy, or in some other way distance themselves from their dog, recall and attach lead. The aim is to enable the handler to call the dog to them when released within a restricted area, i.e. home or garden. There will be no requirement for the dog to sit, the handler will simply attach the lead to the collar. Note: The handler is to be advised not to let the dog run uncontrolled in open spaces such as woods, parks and farmland.

10. RESPONSIBILITY AND CARE
The object of this exercise is to test the knowledge of the handler on specific subjects relating to owning a dog. When asked questions by the examiner from the Responsibility and Care numbered list section one only. Topics include - A dog's needs, Illness and Responsibilities of Ownership. The questions should not be phrased in an ambiguous manner and where necessary, examiners should rephrase the same question in an attempt to bring out the correct answer from the handler. At the start of each training course, in addition to the description, handlers should be given a copy of the canine code and Responsibility & Care sheet. There should be a discussion period during which the importance of correct socialisation can be explained, problems discussed and advice given on choosing a suitable collar, identity disc and lead. Note: Only one numbered item may constitute a question. The handler should be able to give three out of six correct answers from Section One of the Responsibility and Care Information Sheet.

You can generally just turn up on the day.

HTH

Thanks guys, I think thats covered everything :D :D :D

With his name tag though, does it have to have his full address - I dont want a huge medallion hanging round his neck :D :D :D 

Control of Dogs Act 1992

Every dog while in a highway or in a place of public resort, shall wear a collar with the name and address of the owner inscribed on the collar or on a plate or badge attached thereto.

If you put house number, road, town and postcode this should suffice. That is only 3 lines.

LOL - mine don't even wear collars - naughty me :D :D

Mine wear collars but they don't have tags on ;)

I was at a Companion Show on Sunday where they were doing bronze testing, and on the desk where you registered (and you didn't have to book beforehand), they had a supply of little green barrel style identification tags, so that anyone who wished to participate but didn't have their address on the dog tag could purchase one, fill it out and put it on and pass the test...what they did with the barrel tag after that, I'm guessing, was their business ;-)

I had a tag made up when we did our bronze, though I don't tend to leave it on their collar for everyday use.
I had three lines on mine, the first was our surname, the second my mobile number and the third our house number and postcode (I didn't bother with the road name or the town as it wouldn't fit on). This seemed to suffice for our bronze :)

Ive just been into town and got him one made up with my name and telephone numbers on one side and address on the other side so we are all set ........... now to do some training ;)

Excellent and good luck with the test and let us know how you get on.

People have failed the Bronze test for not having a correct ID tag (as laid down in the guidance notes for KC GCT Examiners and on the Kennel Club site) so at least you have removed one obstacle :D

Good Luck :D

and thats the easiest obstacle to remove :D :D :D

Fagan is very good really but I think he may have started going through his teenage phase because where he used to do things as soon as I ask you can see that he now stops and thinks about it before he either a) does as he is told or b) carries on doing what he was

The only thing im not sure about is the controlled going through the door is it just a fact of him not pulling me through or should I get him to sit and wait?

It always looks most impressive if you can get your dog to sit and then recall through and repeat the other way :D  Also it is good every day training sit = door open, jumping about etc = door closed then you avoid the frenzy at doorways re leads and walks etc.  And it gives the dog something TO do as opposed something NOT to do :)

One thing he is good at is sit and wait so it looks like that ones in the bag ;)

Blondebird,
I have heard that exercise explained as follows :
If you imagine that the other side of the door/gate is a fairly narrow path next to a busy road. Keep your dog under sufficient control that neither you or the dog would be in danger of getting run over.

I've only ever put one of my dogs in for a Good Citizen Test. A gold one, just to make the numbers up for the club. (i'm not sure that you're allowed to skip levels, but I got the award anyway). That was the first and only time my dog had ever worn a collar in her life (borrowed from another persons dog ;-)

I am struggling to think of any of my friends or aquaintances with gundogs whose dogs have a collar and name tag. Must be one of the most widely ignored laws, other than speed limits! 

You are correct Havoc, under the regulations you cannot be awarded the Gold unless you have passed the bronze and silver; people ignore rules and regulations all the time.

I must admit at one country show we went to, I was talking to this guy about working Fagan and the first thing he said was "get rid of that collar and get a slip lead" :D :D :D  I like to have a collar on him though just in case he goes walkabout (although he is chipped), especially now he is turning into a kevin

To be fair if you were actually working your dog you would not want a collar on and real working dogs are exempt from wearing the collar and ID tag, whilst actually working; hence you don't see any foxhounds or working gundogs wearing any :)

I understand that in the US they are not exempt. Gundogs therefore sometimes end up working with two collars; one for the name tag and one to deliver electric shocks! :-(

I wonder why it is that people reach for the shock collar/fence first rather than actually doing any training?

What does that say about the calibre of trainer I wonder when one chooses to use pain as a method of management?  And why do people acquire animals just so that they can elect to hurt them :?

If my dog would not work without recourse to such items I would consider myself a very poor trainer indeed and perhaps consider taking up another hobby............ one that had less fallout for the unfortunate animals.

I agree on the shock collars, I was talking to a guy I know who trains gundogs, he offered to help me with Fagan and then proceeded to tell me how well he trained his friends pointer with the use of an electric shock collar :(  he wont be going near my dog

Good news though, Fagan passed his bronze :)  he didnt put a foot wrong even when he was doing his stay and there was a sudden burst of clapping and cheering from the next room he didnt move an inch - im such a proud mum :-o

Now we have to find somewhere for him to do his silver ......... :P

Congratulations, on both your bronze success and bypassing the moron with the e-collar!

/Well done :)

Lindsay
X

I spoke to my local dog warden re the collar/tag thing and they said that phone no. only was OK (tag also says they're microchipped).

It's rather worrying when dog wardens don't know the law! :(