Hello,

I would like some of your opinions on how to help my puppy, he is very nervous of pretty much everything. He has been with me for 1 week and is improving daily but I do have a problem with his fear biting.
He was 11 1/2 weeks old when I got him and had seen nothing, having never been in a house etc. He seemed very nervous when I went to see him but it didn't really help that I had taken him into the frontroom as it was in the middle of a thunder storm !!! Obviously this was all new to him so I would expect him to be alittle upset.  When I finally got him home he was terrified of my other dogs and just collapsed on the floor yelping when they approached him. I have taken it slowly with him and he is now reasonably happy with the other dogs company.  My problem is that when he is scared he bites whatever is closest to him at the time. Normally this is the lead but it has been me twice. I tried yesterday to introduce him to some friends but he attacked the lead and wet himself when they came close. I'm just not sure whether to ignore him when he does this or try and comfort him ( which I think could make him worse, as he could think there really is something to be scared of then). He is such a lovely boy for everything else and didn't murmur when the vet gave him his vacc and microchip. I can handle his food bowl and take treats etc off him etc so he is not aggressive just scared. Do you think time will teach him to trust me or will he always be nervous???  I have booked in for training classes and we will start them on the 17th Sept.

Any advice would be great.
Debbie

Don't rush him - let him take his own time to find out people etc aren't scarey, and when he does, let him find out they actually bring good things.  So brief friends NOT to approach him/encourage him to make friends, but make sure they have a nice treat for him when he does pluck up courage to meet them.  Ask them not to look at him and to sit 'sideways' on, rather than square on, if he sniffs them, they should very gently and slowly move their hand to stroke his throat/chest area (NOT the top of his head or shouldars, these are areas reserved for dominant dogs who wish to remind a dog that they are 'in charge' - your little one doesn't need that kind of treatment)  Be aware of the stress indicators in a dog - like licking the lips, the showing of the whites of the eyes at the outside corner, and the 'freeze' which is often the pre cursor to a growl, and then a bite - you are aiming not to put him in this position, so make sure whoever is handling him is aware of his stress levels and can make sure measures can be taken to reduce them.

You're right not to want to comfort him, as this can be perceived as rewarding the 'sissy' behaviour.  Keep your voice light an uplifting, but don't watch him straight on (keep an eye on him out of the corner of your eye etc.)

PS - re Puppy Classes - please make sure your classes are capable of dealing with a nervous puppy, and that their play sessions are carefully controlled, not 'free for alls' where the little thugs learn how to terrorise others, and the nervous ones quickly learn to snap when pushed too far.  A good puppy class tutor won't mind you making a visit without your pup before hand - if they won't, then vote with your feet ;)

Patience, Patience and patience is the best advice.  My young bc was nervous although not quite to the same extent.  We did use a flower remedy for a while which did seem to help which was especially for nervous dogs.  There is also a diffuser called DAP that you can use which gives off a pheramone whih can help.  We also found the use of a crate useful with a cover on it.  It gives him somewhere to hide when things get too much and it is nice and dark for him.  Luckily at 9 months old he is great and only gets scared with loud noises such as fireworks and thunder so it does get better.  Any idea what has happened to him prior to you getting him?  What breed?

Claire

Great advice there from Digger :-) :-) :-)

Would just add that if anyone asks or is in a position to stroke the puppy, be very firm with them about NOT offering the back of their hand out first for the puppy to sniff.  With a nervous/shy dog of any age this is only a signal to them that the person is wary of something too.  Why anyone thinks that a dog's highly developed sense of smell hasn't picked up their scent from several feet away is a mystery to me :-O  and there are "behaviourists" that do this too - even with a scent hound <LOL>
 
If you guage it to be acceptable to the puppy to be stroked by someone, as Digger says it should be under the throat or chest and done in a gentle but positive way.  There's nothing more disheartening when trying to bring on a nervous youngster than seeing them go forward a little to accept affection only to be met by a tentative approach which makes the puppy retreat again.

With lots of patience and no pressure your little one will come round.

Good luck, Teri ;-)

I totally agree with you Teri - I hate it when people offer the back of heir hand to a wary dog - it immediately makes them back off ! :-( - even some judges do this WHY ??? . I have found that touching the dog firmly and confidently makes them relax.

Please make sure that your training class is not too hectic and overwhelming for your pup - many of them will make a nervous dog worse .

The reason why people offer the back of their hand to be sniffed is well recorded - if the dog bites the back of a human hand, the resulting scar tissue is less damaging to the person's hand mobility than if the palm is bitten. You offer the palm only if you are prepared to permanently lose your grip ...
:)

Hi Jeangenie,

If they are scared of being bitten they'd be more sensible leaving the dog alone ;-)   False bravado will be picked up by the dog anyway, therefore worsening the problem.

It also used to be well recorded to stand still and stare at a dog if feeling threatened by it - unfortunately many of the regular public to this day often follow that advice but when we get to read about their war wounds in the press it's rare for anyone with any common sense dog experience to point out the folies of such actions.

I think it's of far more concern when "professional" dog people, ie. vets, trainers, behaviourists and as Trevor says judges proffer the back of their hand to dogs - they REALLY should know better ;-)

Teri

Teri, in the showring dogs have to tolerate being handled - the judge can't 'leave them alone'. At least, not if s/he's doing the job properly! So if the dog is going to snap, the back of the hand can bear the damage better. RSPCA Inspectors, vets etc (and others who have many dealings with dogs of unknown temperament) know it's a fool who offers a palm of the hand (often associated with a slap) to an unknown dog.
:)

Hi Jeangenie, I understand the reasoning behind it and we'll have to agree to differ on that one :-)

As regards the showring, a) a dog that is likely to bite should not be shown (OK, the owners need to learn that one <G>);
b) a dog that shows obvious signs of being likely to bite does not have to be examined by the judge - it can be excused on temperament grounds;
c) a judge that is frightened of being bitten shouldn't judge - what fool intentionally sets themselves up to face a fearful and unknown situation for a hobby?

An extended hand - either way up - if bitten is likely to have fingers hurt first, not the palm.  An open hand, palm down, if bitten above the fingers will still incur injury to the palm by virtue of the fact that dogs tend to have a top and bottom jaw <LOL>  And regardless of hand position, "serial munchers" usually find their way half up the arm ;-)

The issue that I was addressing here was the fact that a hand is put out in front of the puppy/dog to "sniff" before contact - stop anyone in the street and ask them why they offer their hand forward to the dog before petting and I'd be willing to bet that almost all would say "to let the dog smell me"!!!!!!!!!  It's a common myth with people and is a major problem to anyone trying to socialise and encourage an usure dog.

The problem with a nervous dog put in that situation is the hesitation in the approach - regardless of whether a family pet, patient at the veterinarian or show dog.  If the outstretched hand - in any position - is put directly onto the dog, under the throat/chest as explained, the dog will not sense fear from the approach.

Teri ;-) 

I feel that with a puppy as nervous as this in a domestic situation visitors, family etc should ignore the pup as far as possible and allow it to make the first advances itself. Any eye contact, body turning towards it, hand reaching out (in whatever position - I still feel this pup may associate hands, especially open hands, advancing towards it as usually ending in a slap) no matter how confidently will be seen as a terrifying threat.

I wonder what the bitch's temperament was like? And what conditions was the pup living in before? This does seem to be nervousness in the extreme, and may be very difficult to overcome, especially (if what I fear is true) there is a hereditary element.

And I'll always hold out a titbit to a dog in my closed hand, palm and fingers down! Any other way has led to (my) nipped fingers! ;)
:)

Have to say I am with Teri on this one. I have a nervous dog who has never bitten or attempted to bite anyone (she is now 8) but she does bark at strangers. She is far better approached directly - if someone strokes her (head preferably for her - though I realise that is not universal!) she "forgets" she should be frightened of them and is fine. If someone offers her a hand to sniff she assumes there is something to worry about and jumps away to bark at them. So I always tell them before they approach to go straight in - it does really annoy me when they ignore that, think they know best and start waving their hand under her nose! If they are confident enough to want to stroke her then at least stroke her in a way that she is happy with - after all I never ask anyone to stroke her! (She is not shown anymore as she hated it so "having" to approach her isn't an issue here).

Janet

There are always exceptions to every general rule aren't there! I suppose we all assume our dogs are the norm. :) I've found dogs usually think a hand needs sniffing (especially children's hands, when they're covered in icecream or chocolate), so a hand going to the top of their head (they all loathe, but will tolerate, having their heads stroked by strangers) really disturbs them.
:)

Absolutely! I know she is the exception to most rules ( :) ) so I don't object that people assume they should approach her in a more "standard" way - only that they completely ignore me when I tell them she is better approached the other way! After all - they have known her all of 30 seconds and I have lived with her for 8 years - of course they know her best! :)

It is a shame for her really as she is actually a very sweet and affectionate soul but people are understandably alarmed when she barks at them (she is not small!). If she can get through that initial approach and realise that this person too is a nice one life is so much more rewarding for her.

Janet
ps I would still approach a strange dog with the back of my hand to be sniffed - unless told otherwise!

Thank-you for all of your replies,
'Doza' is a mastiff breed which natural should be alittle unsure of strangers but I just did not think as a puppy he would have this kind of behaviour. He does have his own crate (the solid type) which is his own place. He is fabulous with the kids and will follow them anywhere but adults really scare him as do cats,horses,cars etc. He wee's himself when you go over to see him although once he is sure it's just me he is fine. The first time that I said 'no' to him he ran through the house yelping. I felt so guilty but I hadn't shouted or anything scary, just said 'no' to stop him eating the electric cables!!!
I don't think that anything horrible has happened to him as the breeder seemed ever so nice and has been ringing me to see how he is getting on. It is a very big change for him though as he had never been in a house, had a lead or collar on, been in a car, met other animals etc
I met both his parents and his auntie who were all very friendly, although he hid from them too, mind you one was wearing a buster collar which can be alittle painful if he had been hit with it !!!! So for my next question, if he is on a lead out in the garden or fields etc and starts to back away from something he finds scary do I just ignore him and stand still until he stops pulling back or allow him to move away?? I've tried coaxing him to me but it just makes him worse. Also if he bites me again do I let him know it is unexceptable behaviour and how???  Only I find myself praising him for biting me, lol. And how?? by putting him back in his bed???
 
Debbie

Hi Debbie,

Obviously the early socialisation (if any) he got from his breeder was not nearly enough.  The fact he has never been indoors means you have your work cut out but it's not impossible with a lot of hard work and patience on your part ;-)

Treat him like he's a 7/8 week old puppy.  Introduce him gradually to all normal household situations.  If he freaks at certain objects/noises (vacuum, washing machine, telephone, tv, ironing board, pedal bin, hairdryer, the list could be endless :-(  ) just gradually habituate him with these things at a distance, allow him a fairly wide berth but make sure he sees and hears them.  Over time he will come to accept anything that he sees and hears often enough but the fact that this is all brand spanking new instead of learned while still in the nest will mean it may take longer.

As for outside, ignore what you can re worried behaviour.  Never pet him to reassure him unless it is something which actually warrants a fearful reaction - such as an agressive approach by another dog.  Try and keep an up-beat tone and encourage him to folllow you even if he goes into a rigid sit ;-   If you have access to a confident adult dog to join you on early outdoor excursions this may help.  The main thing to avoid just now is excess pressure - he's imagining enough of that already so try not to pile extra on.

You have so many different things to introduce this puppy to :-(  For your own sake as much as his try not to jump into every situation etc right away.  Better to build his confidence gradually over time so set yourself some realistic targets about what things to try and really habituate him with - if you're not overly ambitious you will see some positive changes quite soon and this will keep your own spirits up :-)

Very best of luck, you've a big but very worthy job ahead.  I'm sure many more people willl be able to add advice on this topic now and over the next few weeks as you start to make progress.

Chin up, Teri ;-) 

should have added re. biting - is this in play?  If so, withhold the game until he calms down, ignore him in between.  If it is in retaliation for an action of yours he doesn't like, squeal loudly to let him know its painful and then put him or leave him alone for a minute or two.  There are lots of different methods depending on what he's specifically doing and working out why.  Try and go into more detail (when you have time <LOL>)  :-)

Don't use his bed area as a punishment otherwise he will always view it as that.  His bed/crate should be a place of sanctuary for him for sleeping of course and also somewhere he feels safe if something is too scary for him ;-)

Teri

I agree with Jeangenie on this one -if one wants to use the 'but the dogs been able to smell me since I was 10 yards away' argument, then why do dogs who've watched each other walk down the road towards each other, still insist on sniffing?

Hi Digger,

Dogs learn much more from sniffing one another than they would a human and their reasons/interests for doing so are completely unrelated - so that is an entirely other issue ;-)

When greeting their own species by sniffing they want to pinpoint the sex, age, fertility, territory etc etc of their doggie counterparts.  Different subject ;-)

Teri 

Hi All,
Just a quick up-date.
'Doza' is settling in well and is trying to play with the other dogs now without finding them too scary. We have also made progress with his biting. I think it is all just that he is very, very smart and is using this behaviour to get his own way!!! What has been happening is , we have been doing some lead training around the garden and fields. At first I was just letting him explore wherever he wanted while I just followed. The last few days however I have tried to get him to go alittle further then he likes (he likes 30 second run round the garden and back in) If Doza decides he doesn't want to go the way I would like to go and I have have tried everyway to coax him but with no luck at all, toys and treats are ignored completely, he charges backwards biting the lead and screaming.
I have tried ignoring this behaviour today and just carrying on with the walk, with great results. Obviously he gets loads of praise when he decides to follow.

Must Go
Debbie

hi can sum one tell me what to do iv just got a american bulldog x pitbul bitch 8 months old but she is so nervos off every ting  u carnt go near her to fast or make loud noises any noise scares her any person or dog and im not shore what to do to bring here out off it i have another dog a wippet cross and she wont play with her or any thing she makes out shes not there? thanks

blandi,

How old was this pup when you got her and do you know anything about the parents? I should add that if you are not already aware someone has broken the law by breeding from a Pitbull. If she was rescue from a reputable rescue organisation then you should definitely go back to them.

I'm not sure of the wisdom of giving advice about a cross like this. So many things could be making her nervous. My chief concern is that you have not ended up with a badly bred dog. You should first have her checked thoroughly by a vet. If you have a Blue Cross nearby they may be able to help. If she is clear medically you need then to have her assessed by a behavioural expert. This is very important because your dog will soon become very big and strong and if her nervousness turns into fear aggression then you will have a problem. You need help now to find out if you are going to be the right owner for her and can train her enough to be a safe dog to have around.

It could be that she'll be fine, none of us can tell from the little information that you give, but my view is it is better to be safe than sorry. You already own a dog so you know enough to be concerned.

May I ask where you live? If by any chance you live in London then you could try talking to Battersea Dog's Home and ask for their advice on where you could get your pup assessed. Otherwise google the APBC or the UKRCB and ask for their advice. Please do not leave this. I am concerned that you get the right help now. Again, from the little you've said, I think it's better to err on the side of caution.

Please let us know how you get on and who you contact. Do go to a vet first though.