Apologies in advance for this long winded post!
We own a 2yr old Gordon setter dog, Taggart, who is fabulous apart for an issue with aggression around food. Let me explain the history...
The problem first occured when he was about 6-8 months old, he would growl & snap if you approached him/walked by whilst he was feeding. We sought guidance from our vet who advised us to basket muzzle him when feeding and purposefully put our hands in his bowl. If he attacked (which of course he did!) we had to forcefully put him on to his back in the submissive positon. In ignorance we followed this advice ( I cringe now when I think of it). This resulted in the poor dog being terrified to eat & even more aggressive around food. We very quickly stopped this method & then had a long patient task of hand feeding until he ever felt confident to feed out of his dish again. I was bitten a number of times during this phase, not through the hand feeding but if picking some dropped food on the floor whilst preparing dinner (ours not his) for example. When he did bite it wasn't just a snap but full on force, once needing hospital treatment.
The point we are at now is that he will feed from his bowl again but has to be alone outside or he just guards the bowls and growls. We have tried different bowls & locations but still the same result. The big worry I have now is that we have a 6 month old son who will be crawling/toddling before we know it & although we can shut Tag out to feed him it is obviously not the solution. My blood runs cold to think what could happen.
Any advice will be gladly welcomed, I feel terrible that we have caused this issue as he is such a terrific dog in every other way.
Paula

hi paula.....that type food aggresion is an inherent predisposition'quote unquote''..call the breeder and ask about the parents eating habits if they say they don't do that they are lying.....feed that son of a gun in his crate....and they vet gave you bad advice about putting your hands in the bowl.never do that....you must get rid of him find a suitible home but if he'll bite you he won't think twice of biting a baby....it happens so much over here[usa]the surgeon general has issued a warning that dog bites on children are epidemic......look how many people died from smoking before they warned us,,,so for them to issue a warning.......

hi paula.....that type food aggresion is an inherent predisposition'quote unquote''..call the breeder and ask about the parents eating habits if they say they don't do that they are lying.....feed that son of a gun in his crate....and they vet gave you bad advice about putting your hands in the bowl.never do that....you must get rid of him find a suitible home but if he'll bite you he won't think twice of biting a baby....it happens so much over here[usa]the surgeon general has issued a warning that dog bites on children are epidemic......look how many people died from smoking before they warned us,,,so for them to issue a warning.......

Apologies in advance for this long winded reply

If your dog is inclined to be aggressive in other situations too, you should get expert help before putting any training regime into practice. Especially with a young six month old child around. You are correct about the Vets advice it was less than helpful a would certainly worsen the situation.

However, food guarding does sometimes occur as an isolated problem, which has actually been taught to the dog by a well-meaning owner with exactly the opposite intention, and in this case it's usually fairly straightforward to cure. I won't go into the why's and wherefores as you want a solution not a diatribe.

What really puts you one step ahead is that however clever the dog is, he cannot get his own meals. Get out his bowl and pretend to prepare his food, then put the bowl down as usual but EMPTY! He will look like a thunderbolt has hit him and will sniff round for the missing food. Remember you are dealing with a potentially dangerous situation here and drastic methods are called for. Calmly - no laughing at him -use something with a long handle a fork or spoon to throw a small portion of food into the bowl from a safe distance. If he does grab anything, he'll grab the spoon or whatever implement your using and not your hand.

Even if you normally have to leave the room while he eats, your dog will almost certainly allow this. If he insists on guarding the empty bowl, leave as usual and wait until he comes away from it. (If he’s really determined this may take some time so start the meal early if necessary.) Feed him the whole of his meal in spoonfuls like this, so that your getting access to the bowl is a condition of him getting fed; this is a powerful incentive for him to allow you close. Continue this at every meal until your dog is completely happy to let you throw food into his bowl from a distance. Then very gradually increase your closeness each time until you are putting the food in place.

When he is happy with this, put a small amount of dinner in the bowl before giving it to him and spoon feed the remainder as usual. By gradually increasing the initial amount you will eventually find yourself putting down all his dinner in one go; at this stage keep some especially tasty titbit for "pudding". Again very gradually, begin to add this at progressively earlier and earlier points in the meal (throwing them from a distance at first, then getting gradually closer as before) so that he learns that your approach during a meal is just as rewarding as it is afterwards. Take plenty of time, making sure your dog is absolutely relaxed and happy at each stage before going on. If you hit any problems immediately go back a couple of steps and start again. Remeber in training if the dog relapses you have gone to far to fast.

If you are starting with a puppy, you should be able to begin at the stage where you put the occasional treat in his bowl while he is eating so that he never doubts that your presence near his bowl is a good thing.
You may argue that this does not teach your dog what you set out to teach him - to let you take his food away from him - but frankly this aim is really just a power trip. It’s hard to think of a real life situation where you need to take away a bowl of food you have given him in the first place. For most practical purposes what the dog needs is to learn is that people are not a threat to him whilst he is eating, and that your family has the right to be near him or even brush against him without retaliation. This lesson will keep you and your family safe from your dog aggressive feelings during his mealtimes.

And the fact that you can be around him and touch him when he has food should, in emergencies, let you take it away from him if he is ever given anything which is unsafe, or if you accidentally drop the Sunday joint in his bowl! However, in this case it may be a good idea to replace it with something tasty and rewarding immediately if possible or you may undo all your hard work.

Best of Luck

Doglistener

Thanks for this advice - I'll try it with tonights meal & let you know how we get on.
The only other time he has bitten & not related to food was one night when I was doing some work on my laptop in the lounge. He kept putting his head heavily on my lap & I had to keep pushing him off, then suddenly I went to push him off again & he attacked. Again not just a warning snap but deep, drawing blood. I jumped up & shouted NO (very loudly!) didn't hit him or anything. He put his head down then & hid in a corner. I think hes got a thing about hands after that original vets advice.
He seems to get in funny moods sometimes, you can see it in his eyes, & will come up to you and give a paw, but the paw/leg is very rigid & if you take it he wrinkles his lips (not a full snarl). We tend to just turn our backs or walk away from him then - is that the right thing to do? Its like hes 2 different dogs, most of the time hes a right soppy lump.
Paula

Well I know this might sound very hard, but my advice is to find another home for him.

You are going to be living on a knife edge with this dog and a six month old baby around.

He has more problems than a little if he is atacking you when you push his head away, this is not just food aggression.

If I was in your situation I would look for a home with no children and very experienced owners.

Sorry to be as hard as this but your baby has to come first in my opinion.

my second shih tzu was possesive at when treats were being offered out, same with new toys,i foundout that he sees me as HIS and only HE SHOULD GET THE TREATS AND NEW TOYS ,....
Now he knows the other dogs get there treat first and he only gets one if he sits nice and doesn't grab.
As for toys i have an abbundance of various toys and they all seem to want the same one at the same time...so he waits his turn..
but he is absolutley brilliant when it comes to bathing and grooming he just stands ther even when you come across a tug....

good luck with the dog and all the best with the baby crawling toddling and getting into everthing ..as the do..

I have to agree with Lady Dazzle - find a new home for him.
We had the same problem with Sonny - food aggression to start with then he bit my son and husband. With a six month old I would take no chances. It's hard but you have to protect your child.

TTFN

Ruth

Has the Vet checked him out for neurological problems. These sudden changes of character and mood are certainly not normal :(

Hi Paula

re my earlier posting and thanks you for the reply.

This isn't an isolated food guarding situation, as you have stated there has been another instance where he has drawn blood, and from your description he challenges you, hence the stiffness and regidity with the paw.

My recommendation therefore would be to err on the side of caution at all times especially with a toddler, either seek professional help or seriously consider rehoming. If that is to be your decision then the telphone number below may be of help

United Gordon Setter Rescue
Co-ordinator: Jill Dixon
Telephone: 0161 440 0385

Best wishes with your decision

Doglistener

Hi all
We are going to seek proffesional help for Tag & see what they say. At the end of the day though, Rees has to come first so if rehoming is advised, as so very hard as that is, we will have to do what is right.
I just feel like we've failed him.
We'll keep you posted of what happens in the future. Thanks for all your advice, much appreciated.
Paula