Hi we have 14 week Doberman pup, we are looking for advise on lease training tried 2 trainers already, no good. He is pulling constantly and we are finding it hard to control him when out. Also seems to aying up at night going into cage, he falls asleep on my husband then we take him to cage, has been OK but seems to of changed, this is all. New to. Us so. Any tips would be good many thanks x

Try a head collar.  

Have him in his crate in with you (if you don't already?) - and don't put him there until you are ready for bed too.

Whay advise did the trainers give? Teaching a dog to walk nicely in a lead tales time and practice for.both of u. 
Its not just about being told and then doing it a few times it can take weeks and he is very young and this is all new.
Just a small important point any lead walking should.be no more.than 5 mins for.each month of his life so at.the moment only 15 to 20 months in total .
The crate need to be seen by him as a place.of safety and pleasant. Again it can take time. Feed.him in the crate ,play with him with treats.going into the crate.  Have toys in there ..if he is.sleepy put him in the.crate so he.gets used to it when he is tired  Leave the door open as much as possible and apart from at.night he shouldn't be shut in for long . Especially as a young pup

Dog Training Advice and Support Facebook Group has some really good resources on nice walking.  https://www.facebook.com/groups/374160792599484. 

You have to be patient, consistent and not expect it to happen over night.  The right equipment is essential and for me that means for a large dog or one in training, a good fitting harness with rings that allow the double ended lead to be connected to the front and rear.

harness = definitely the double ring kind eg meckuti and perfect fit. Properly fitted harness like this also prevent potential damage to the neck and throat which is a danger if you have a pully dog
It also allows you to guide the dog and then reward immediately when he is doing what you want . Might need to practice that as you have to sort you hands out. I keep treats in an easily accessible waist bag. you don't want to be mucking around looking for treats   

single ring harnesses  attached to the back only ime increase pulling and allow the dog to get their shoulders into it and drag especially a large breed.
as 91052 says any training takes patient consistent work and time, often lots of time .

>Try a head collar.

He's much too young for a headcollar; they shouldn't be used until at least 6 months of age, when the bones and muscles of the neck are a bit stronger, to avoid damage.

>Have him in his crate in with you (if you don't already?) - and don't put him there until you are ready for bed too.

100% spot on.

What have you tried so far?

Equipment and method aside, remember that dobes are very independent and environment-driven; they are people-people indoors and in low distraction environments but out and about, many want to be off and doing all the things!  So persuading them to walk with you can be challenging, especially if pulling is already becoming a habit.  It gets them where they want to go.  So first and foremost, you need to make sure that whatever you're using to reward him (you're rewarding him, right?) is worth his attention.  No kibble or shop bought treats here - I'm talking pieces of cooked meat and cheese.  Make it worth his while to stick with you.

Remember as well that dog behaviour is driven by reinforcement.  Whatever is reinforced continues; what is not, does not.  That reinforcement is not necessarily just what you give him but it can be interesting smells, seeing another dog, or simply moving forward.  So whatever method you use, make sure that pulling is not being reinforced.

When I'm lead training a dog, if that dog pulls, I stop, and encourage them to come back to me (I do not pull them back).  I don't wait for them to turn round - I actively encourage them back.  The second their attention is back on me, I move forwards again, and THEN I feed when they are back next to me and in position.  I do not feed when they come back to me, only once we're on the move again.  Moving again reinforces them coming back but feeding it can result in a yoyo effect where the dog learns to pull, to be called back and get a treat.  By only feeding when they're in the right position, that's what gets reinforced, and feeding in position strengthens it further.  Every few steps, then gradually spreading it out.  If the dog springs off once they have their first treat, then I'll switch to going a step further each time we've set off again before they get that treat (so they're coming back, we're moving on again, and a little further before that treat on each repetition).  That way they learn to hang around with you and the duration increases.

Both reward timings work, it just depends on the dog as to which I use.

> When I'm lead training a dog, if that dog pulls, I stop, and encourage them to come back to me (I do not pull them back).  I don't wait for them to turn round - I actively encourage them back.  The second their attention is back on me, I move forwards again, and THEN I feed when they are back next to me and in position.

Great advice, this is what I do and it works really well, you have to be consistent though, don't think 'I'll just nip out for a quick walk' one day and not have time to do it properly. Consistency is key.

I hate to see harnesses on pups, I've seen so many ruin their fronts. I use an all fabric martingale as my dogs have very fine heads and can slip out a normal flat collar. Lead walking is not about hardware, it's about training.

Having said that I think head collars are very useful if you have strong dogs, even if they are normally very well behaved. I used to use them when walking several borzoi at once, none of them pulled but if a cat crossed our path, or they seen a bunny (or a crisp bag blowing in the wind!) then head collars are invaluable

I’m not keen on harnesses, as a friend put it - a harness helps a horse to pull which is what I found they learned to do. I prefer a halti for that reason. That said, I don’t need to use them now and I can walk my four together no problem. Unless we’re on holiday and going to the beach!!

I use a headcollar on Abe (also a dobermann and not lead trained by his previous owner), but JG is right, they are not for young pups.  Especially not one who's already pulling hard.  That is a recipe for long term damage.

Totally right about consistency.  Years ago I read a tiny snippet on a trainer's blog about pulling that read (paraphrasing) "You have to decide that from this day forward, this dog is never going to pull me again."  And that is the reality of it.  Abe is still a work in progress because I can't physically manage that, so there are still times he does it.  That's on me but that's also with a seasoned hard puller who knew he could just take his old owner with him if the mood took him; with a 14 week old pup it should come much more quickly.

Re head collars, I was recommended to use a Canny Collar with my Whippet (note neck!!) as she was inclined to spook under certain circumstances and although I can't really remember at what age she was, it did give us control over her head where with her fragile neck, that wouldn't have been recommended or possible.    She seemed to settle well on the CC and eventually didn't need to wear it.   She now has a wide fabric martingale which she's absolutely fine on.

can you remember what size you got for your whippet?  debating getting one for ours for days I feel fragile and want no possibiliy of tantrum on walk

I have different opinions about harnesses depending on the style and where the clip is.

Having a toy breed I’m always worried about potential tracheal damage and only ever clip the lead to River’s flat collar if we’re just nipping out for a quick toilet break.

Yes, he walks nicely on lead in general but since he loves dogs so much he can sometimes forget himself and pull, which inevitably makes him cough if he’s on a collar. It’s just not worth the risk of him causing permanent damage. So harness it is.

I only use a Y-shaped harness and don’t like the H-shaped ones (like the ubiquitous Julius K9) as they restrict shoulder movement.

And I like to have both a front clip and a back clip - mostly because I like the back clip for tracking where he’s actually encouraged to pull a little, and the front clip for ordinary walking. I find with the front clip I can give him directions by just moving my hand a little without having to put any kind of pressure or tension on the lead at all.

My favourite right now is the Perfect Fit, which does exactly what it says on the tin. Of course whatever tool you use is no substitute for training.

Agree with all u say silverleaf. My gsd had layrangeal paralysis and although I shall never know for sure its likely that his pulling on a collar before I started using a head collar contributed. I dint know about the double.ring harnesses then so went to a headcollar
Harnesses now I only use a double.ring one so the front ring on the chest allows me to guide my dog . In our case the mekuti works best for fcr .perfect fit not so good for us although is good for.most people
Our little pom x chi always wore a harness too as I was concerned about her neck .

I did like the Mekuti once River grew into it!

Unfortunately he chewed it a little bit when it fell off the peg and he was never a fan of the fact that it had to be pulled over his head - those huge papillon ears are sensitive!

I’d seem a few puppies in training classes wearing the Perfect Fit and liked the fleece padding and the neck clip so decided to give it a go. It did take a while to find the exact combination of pieces that worked for him (we ended up with the two-piece model rather than the three-piece one) but it was well worth the time to get it right.

Brooke  isn't too keen on the going over the head bit but unfortunately even after a lot of trying I couldn't get the perfect fit to fit.  Shame because its a nice harness

We also tried the Dog Copenhagen Air which is very nice and has a neck clip, and while it fitted well it just felt a little bulky for a tiny dog.

> can you remember what size you got for your whippet?

Remember - no, but looking at it just now, there's a 1 on it so presumably the size was 1!!