I seem to have forgotten loads. I've a 20 months and a 10 months -ish.   The eldest knows more but I think he did at youngest age. I do random watch me, touch (nose touching my held out fingers in different places) etcetera. 
I'm finding it more difficult these days to train one whilst the other is around.  I'm trying to use their names and 'mind your own business ' but am unsure on how to develop this and feel I confuse them at times.
Any advice on training two will be much appreciated.   I do do separate training  but want to know how to differentiate between them better. Thanks

I read an article once, must have been dogs today, by a trainer on how to train when you have multiple dogs. He explained how he had his so that if he said their name first only that dog would respond to the command and if he said dogs first all would respond. He did this by when he was working with one dog say teaching sit for example to Jack and Jill. he would say 'Jill sit' and then only reward Jill for sitting and compleatly ignore Jack. He would repeat it only ever rewarding the dog who's name he said. Then he would do it again using 'dogs sit' and this time both would get rewards. So that way Jill would learn that she only got a reward when she heard Jill or dogs followed by the command.
He would do a mix of singularly training and then training together like that. Think he trained the actual command on their own first then worked them together, it was along time ago I read it, but I rember thinking it sounded like a good idea.

Ideally you need to train each dog individually and get the 'prime commands' (sit, stay, recall) drilled in before you attempt to train/work them together. This is made easier if you use hand signals as well as verbal/whistle commands for the sit/recall. Once they have the basic commands firmly embedded, I have found that using the dogs name (whilst looking at said dog) before giving a verbal command (& whistle if you use one) and a hand signal works.

Once they have the basics: Start with both dogs in a firm sit/stay a short way away from you and a couple of feet between them. Look at the dog that you are not going to work and give the dogs name, a firm "sit/stay" command/hand signal/whistle. Then, look away from that dog and position your body so there is a clear line from you to the second dog. Look at the second dog you do want to work. Say the dogs name gently but firmly and give the hand signal/command to recall.

I have found that if you say the command softly and clearly with a hand signal, the second dog is less likely to recall/move. If it does move, sit both the dogs and return to the dog that moved. Firmly tell the dog to sit/stay and return to your position. Give a moments 'think time' and then softly but firmly call the dog you do want by it's name/hand signal. Reward the dog gently and make it sit/stay and then slowly return to the first dog (don't look at it) and when you reach it, reward it too for staying where you left it. If it moves on your way back to it, make it sit again for a minute or so. Then walk it at heel back to pick your other dog up. Reward both. Eventually, you will be able to leave the dog you do not want to train in a sitting position or in a down stay indefinitely whilst you work the other.

Thank you both - excellent advice and plenty for me to work on.

Admin's reply is how I train mine to respond to specific commands for one dog in a multiple dog situation. The dogs must thoroughly understand the individual commands that have been taught to the dogs on an individual basis before you can go on to proofing them in a group situation.

One of my dogs can be reactive around others - even dogs in his own household when there is any excitement or rapid movements going on. My spoken commands also have hand signals that go with them and this helps to reinforce the commands.

I can now have all the dogs sitting and then throw a ball and release just one dog to go and get it whilst the others sit and wait their turn. I too use the dogs names to differentiate as to which dog needs to listen to which command. I get all the dogs to sit by using a general sit command - all dogs will then sit. I then use the names of the dogs I wish to stay sitting and tell them stay  ( for me stay is don't move at all) and then for the dog who is going to  retrieve the ball I say wait (wait is asking them to wait where they are ready to listen for another command). Using my hand signal to reinforce the stop for the other dogs I then say the retrieving dogs name and release him to go and get the ball. It means my reactive dog is no longer rushing after everybody else's ball and also means that they aren't chasing a moving ball as this can lead to injuries if they do tight stops or turns whilst chasing the ball - a "dead" ball is just as much fun but is a more controlled run and retrieve.

The reward for the stays is their eventual release to get the ball when it is their turn. When first teaching this I made sure that when the dog retrieving the ball had come back I also rewarded/praised the dogs that had remained in the stay.

I was very impressed with my friend who came to visit Saturday night before our rally trial, she had one of hers lying quietly on a bed while she trained the other, then swapped. Even if I persuaded mine to lie on a bed while I worked another of them, there would be excitable squeaking and constant breaking of the wait! I usually just shut the other two out of the room where I'm training.

This is all good advice and how I train/work multiple dogs too, say their name and then give the command. I would recommend that you train them individually at the first though so they understand what you want them to do without the distraction of the other dog being there. I always keep a couple of things in my mind when training my dogs, reward the good behaviour and ignore the bad behaviour and try not to set yourself up to fail. My younger dog a GWP is going through a wilful stage at the moment and I am having to go back to the basics again. Here is an example of how he is pushing back at me. At the end of a walk I open the pick-up door and give the command up and in jump my two dogs, that is until 3 weeks ago when my pointer decided that no, he wasn't going to jump in and would rather run around the forest some more and he ran away. Realising there was no point in calling him as he was set on more running around (and setting myself up to fail as he would almost certainly be suffering from selective deafness at that point) I just got into the pick-up and started the engine. Cue one pointer straight back at the side of the pick-up, so I calmly got out opened the door and he jumped straight in. Now I was lucky I could do that because we were in the middle of nowhere down a forest track with no-one else around. Now I am having to make jumping into the pick-up more rewarding than running around the forest. I now arm myself with high value treats (cubes of roast beef, garlic sausage) which he gets when he jumps in, I carry an old rope tug toy which the two of them get to play with once we get near the pick-up (he sees the pick-up, knows it's the end of the walk but HEY it's play-time!) and a squeaky ball which he gets to play with in the pick-up. Two books that I have found really useful (and still do) are Gwen Baileys Perfect Puppy and Top Tips from Top Trainers. The latter is an American book but it is so good, lots of really helpful tips. Something else that might help is if one dog is steadier and easier to train (maybe the older dog) teach it what you want first on its own and then use it to show the other dog what you want it to do (a monkey see, monkey do strategy). I have done this in the past when bringing on a young dog, and training it with the help of a steady, older dog.

][/Something else that might help is if one dog is steadier and easier to train (maybe the older dog) teach it what you want first on its own and then use it to show the other dog what you want it to do (a monkey see, monkey do strategy]
This is what got me pondering about it, whilst not brilliant on recall my older pup, well teenager, is more advanced and I like to do random bits of practice.   I do things like 'watch me' and Touch that the youngest doesn't yet know - I need to use their own names as I forget to do this a lot.  Using something like 'dogs' or 'boys' when asking them both to do something is another good idea, I need to get into the habit of it.
They do have some understanding it pays (they get treats at random intervals) to be good/settle when I'm grooming each of them - though they do both get on the table when I first set it up:) both wanting to be first.

Hi, If it is useful I always have a vocal and visual cue for my dogs. So when we are out on a walk and they are just snuffling around I will pull my field bag containing their throw toys around from my back to my front and say 'Ready'. That gets their attention on me and then once training is over toys are put back in the bag and the cue ' Away' is given and that is their release and off they go doing doggy stuff again. I think it is useful to have an off and on cue like this, especially when training at the start. Random training sessions are good in my opinion. Hope you are getting on OK with your two