Apologies in advance - this will be long!

I am eagerly anticipating a poodle puppy (standard) hopefully sometime this year.  We have found a good breeder we have a rapport with, and who is what i was looking for (VERY selective, VERY low volume breeding, etc.).  We have waited longer than planned because the bitch she is planning on breeding came into season too early for the stud (he's a first timer and she didn't want to breed him too young) and now we are waiting because it's been six months and the next season hasn't come yet.  Anyway we are perfectly happy to wait, as i'd rather have the right dog next year than the wrong one yesterday.  We began thinking about getting a family pet dog about 18 months ago, so this isn't a snap decision.

Anyway despite the wait i am very excited, so i am just looking for some advice on planning - it's many years since i've had a puppy.  We had a rescue dog who we lost about ten years ago, but got him when he was 5 and he needed rehabbing from a lot of stress so very different from raising a puppy.  All the "rules" have changed since i last got a puppy so i am wondering about a lot of things...

1. choosing a puppy - i was planning on asking the breeder to select the pup for us, as she understands what we are looking for (calm trainable pet for a home with children with special needs but she knows all the details that i won't bore with here) and she will be raising them.  Obviously if she suggested one of two or three i would pick one, but i'm happy for her to make the main choice because she will know them from birth and has known their parents for a long time too.  Some friends have said they prefer to choose themselves but i suspect they choose on looks and not from such reputable breeders (at least one got their dog via a man who dropped it off in a van after they picked it on a webcam, obviously from a puppy farm!).  Am i way off here?  I trust the breeder, and she seems to have a lifelong contact with her puppies so i can't imagine she would palm us off with an unsuitable puppy.

2. spaying - we do not intend to breed, i can't afford it and it just doesn't interest me - having my own kids was stressful enough! ha!  I am open to a bitch or a dog, depending on what the breeder thinks.  When i last had a puppy you spayed at 6 months, or after the first season.  Now i see some places doing spaying at 14-16 weeks (!?!) and others recommending not until 12-18 months.  I would rather maximise the dog's health and longevity, but i am not hugely interested in breed standard showing (might do agility or similar depending on the dog) so i'm not sure what difference it makes/what to do?  I have already researched emergency options (such as the drug the vet can give a bitch after accidental mating) but need guidance on the best way forward for a pet dog.

3. walking - as a matter of course i walk 4.5miles a day just on school runs mon-fri and this will increase in March when my littlest begins nursery to around 5.75 miles a day.  I had planned to take the puppy out in a baby sling when it hasn't finished its vaccinations yet, because i want it to be really well socialised, but i was wondering, at the point it CAN walk safely how far to walk it and how to build it up - i would expect a tiny puppy to be walking all that way all of a sudden!  Also assuming as an adult i AM walking it 5-6 miles a day mon-fri, this sounds silly but do dogs need a day off?  Would it want to just have a potter about on the weekends?  I am hoping to take it further afield for beach/woods/parks walking then, but i don't want to exhaust it.

4. crate training - do i have to?  I am a full time stay at home parent and will be with it all the time when it is tiny and then leaving it for a maximum of 3-4 hours once or twice a week when it is old enough (which i am thinking will be when it is much older but will base on how it is at separation as we go).  My plan was to have a puppy pen when it is small, as much to keep it safe from being hassled when it wants peace as to contain it.  I understand the role crates can play in house training but the breeder says her puppies are usually 90% there by the time they go to their new homes and i'll be with it the whole time to quickly run it outside if it's sniffing/circling.  Is crate training a fad i can safely ignore or is it actually really useful for the DOG?

5. training - my plan was to use one of the books with a chart for the basics (recall, leave, sit, stay, down) from when it comes home (just for a few minutes at a time a few times a day) and to do a puppy obedience course once the vaccinations are done, and beyond that i was just going to continue with the brain-games type training (silly things like fetching specific toys, shaking hands and miming "shy" etc.).  I want a poodle because they're so bright, BUT i understand that means they need to be stimulated so i am sort of braced for a lifetime of teaching the odd new trick, but again a few other friends have said "recall sit and stay" and then "let it be a dog" - am i right in thinking that "being a dog" when bored means "eating my sofa"?

6. what do you think i don't know that i need to?  Like the common things i've not mentioned that i should be thinking about, or the things you see people struggle with most..?

Many thanks in advance for any help you can give.

I wish you were a puppy buyer of mine (no I have different breeds!) as you sound like the ideal person! Well done on doing so much research!

1. choosing a puppy - i was planning on asking the breeder to select the pup for us, as she understands what we are looking for

As a breeder, I fully agree and when possible, this is what I prefer to do. It's different if somebody is wanting a pup for a a specific purpose like showing or working, then an experienced buyer may be better off making the choice, but for a pet, I prefer it if I can make the choice as like you say -a good breeder knows their pups very well.

2. spaying

I would never advice spaying until the bitch is fully mature and has had at least one season, so 18 months at the earliest. There are all sorts of possible problems that can occur if done earlier, both mental and physical. For a responsible owner that isn't going to risk an unplanned pregnancy, there is no need at all to do it early.

3. walking

The simple rule of thumb is 5 minutes walk per month of life, so you're only talking 30 mins by 6 months. This is particularly important for larger breeds which of course a Standard Poodle is. This is because the bones are still soft and developing.

4. crate training - do i have to?

No. I have never in my life crated a large breed. I do with my toydogs for their own safety (as I have large dogs as well) but I have never seen it as a necessity, although most people do. I don't think a pup getting used to a crate early on is necessarily going to suffer from it, not at all, but it is easy to abuse as pup can easily be left too long. I'm from Sweden originally and there it is against the law to crate a dog for more than an hour at a time, and it cannot be done on a daily basis. Yes it is easy to house-train using a crate, it is easy to avoid too much chewing being done, but there are ways around everything. As a breeder I leave this choice to my buyers, but my own large dogs are never crated. That's my personal choice.

am i right in thinking that "being a dog" when bored means "eating my sofa"?

Yes. A dog doesn't realise it's being trained, with modern reward based methods the dog thinks it's all one big wonderful game. You create a much closer bond by training a lot.

Hi poodle noodle,

Well done on doing your research!  Many of the questions you have asked are a matter of opinion, I'll tell you mine but please do also ask your breeder.

1. Letting your breeder pick your pup is a great idea. (S)he will know the pups better than anyone and will be able to choose one which will be best suited to your home and lifestyle. I wish more puppy buyers had the same idea, many come for a visit and try to gauge the characters of the pups which is very difficult in a short space of time e.g the pup who has just had a play before they arrive will begin to flag and before you know it it is "not as playful" or "more shy" than the others.

2.  Take advice from your breeder and vet regarding spaying although I would prefer once the dog is fully mature (no earlier than 18 months). This allows for proper growth and bone development.

3.  Yes take your puppy out, carrying, before fully vaccinated.  The distances you are walking will be far too much for around the first year, I would stick with the 5 minutes per month rule for exercise up to 1 year.  Many people feel this is not enough to tire a pup out but this is where the training you talk about comes in to play.  I often find that for a young dog, a short walk and sitting around about in a busy place watching the world go by, is a great way to tire a pup.

4.  I hated the idea of a crate when it was first introduced to me around 16 years ago, however on visiting a litter I saw that one by one as the pups started to tire they were retreating to an open crate to sleep, I was converted and have used them ever since for young dogs. It gives them a safe place when you are out, no chewed wired or furniture and allows you to separate the children and pup when a rest is needed for either.  I also find that it helps with toilet training as they are less likely to soil their bed area. Of course it is a personal opinion, I too have a busy household with dogs and children and it work for me, although the puppy pen may work equally as well.

5. You already have some good ideas for the initial training, other important things are general manners such as taking food nicely, not jumping up and yes it should be little and often, it is amazing what a pup can learn while the kettle is boiling. A fantastic book which I have put in my puppy pack is "The Perfect Puppy" by Gwen Bailey.  Covers a lot of the basics with kind effective training methods.  There is a chart at the back which covers all of the things you should try to expose your puppy to in the first 16 weeks, many which are obvious but some not so much.

6.  It is easy to forget how much hard wor a puppy can be, just like a new baby but you are well prepared.  Keep in touch with your breeder and remember no question is a silly one.  Before the puppy is fully vaccinated make sure you get it used to a collar and lead, many people will first try this when they are heading out for their first short walk after vaccinations and forget that this is all new to the puppy.  I have found the easiest way is with a small puppy collar and lead, this probably won't last long but they are not expensive.  Allow the pup to wander around supervised with the lead trailing for brief periods in the house before trying to walk with you holding the lead, this will make the first short walks more enjoyable.  Ensure that the pup gets no treats or attention unless all 4 paws are on the ground, a small puppy is really cute but they grow so fast. A great tip also is never allow your puppy to do something you wouldn't allow an adult dog to do.

Good Luck!

Firstly, congrats on your forthcoming puppy which I hope won't be too much longer for you. Well done in thinking what you need to do rather then at the last minute.

I have bought a number of dogs from puppies and up until this one, have chosen myself. This time the breeder was going to choose, although when push came to shove, it ended up with four puppies for me to choose from (long story, won't go into it). All four pups looked exactly the same, so in the end I asked the breeders wife as she had spent the last eight weeks with the pups and had got to know their characters as they developed, she also knew what we were looking for in a dog. She told me about each pup and suggested that 'little Miss Purple' aka Isla, was the one for us. I believe she got it right and would in the future have no hesitation in allowing the breeder to choose for me again if I trusted the breeder to be able to make that choice.
I spayed Isla when she was about 16 months allowing her to have a season first, this allowed her to mature and develop into an adult dog rather then spaying when a puppy.
Care needs to be taken not to over exercise large breed pups. There is a general rule of thumb which says that a puppy needs only 5 minutes per month of age per day, meaning a three month old pup is walked for only 15 minutes. This refers to on lead walking at an enforced speed. If off lead and the walk progresses at the pups speed with stops and starts then the time can be extended. So no school runs intially, then only the shorter one and so on and so forth as your pup grows up. After  the pup is a year, then gradually build up your pups stamina which with a poodle will be quite extensive.
No of course you don't have to crate train. If you have a safe puppy proof room for the pup when you go out or at night, then that is what most of us have done until crates came into use. I used a crate for the first time with Isla and I must say it did speed up toilet training. Pups don't like to mess in their sleeping area so are naturally inclined to keep the crate clean. Isla only used her crate at night and on those occasions when we went out. We discontinued its use when she was about 9 months and wasn't chewing anything she shouldn't. She is now confined to the kitchen/diner which is large, by a stair gate at night.
You can start training your pup when you first bring her home, anything you want to train really as its a good way of bonding with your puppy. Also training is more tiring for a puppy then exercise. Establishing a recall now will benefit you both in the long run.

Hope this is of some help for you

Ha, yes, i love Gwen Bailiey, bought The Perfect Puppy book about a year ago and have so far read it cover to cover about three times.  That was the chart i was thinking of doing.  I also have "Brain Training for Dogs" and a few others, i prefer the reward based positive sorts of trainers - someone recommended me a Cesar Milan one but i once saw him punching a (terrified, growling in can't-run-have-to-fight terror) bulldog on his tv show and it put me right off him.  Plus his "be the pack leader" stuff seems excessive to me.  Okay, maybe it works well for some people, but i'd rather raise a puppy that trusts us to keep them safe rather than one we have dominated into submission.  I'm open to the dogs staying off furniture and eating after us etc type advice. but not in active punishment.

I am prepared for those early weeks i think - my kids still do not sleep well (two of them have neurological problems) so a few sleepless months doesn't worry me too much.  That reminds me actually....

7. sleep - the first few nights (weeks?) i was planning on having the puppy in a high sided box next to my bed, mainly so i can hear and respond immediately if it needs to go out, but partly because it seems quite harsh to me to take it from its home and mum and potentially loads of littermates and expect it to be completely alone for 6 or so hours overnight.  Plus a comforting stroke in the night seems an easy way to teach the puppy it can trust me and look to me for comfort and guidance, but am i way off on this?  I was going to have it on a familiar towel or blanket in the box, then move the towel to a bed, then the bed downstairs.  We already have a stairgate and have hard flooring in our living room, kitchen and hall so all the floors downstairs are washable.  I was planning on putting the bed in the hall beside the radiator ultimately but actually i don't mind, long term, a dog on the upstairs landing or in my bedroom.  Not IN my bed (no room with me, hubby and often at least 2 of our 3 kids!) but in the room is fine.  What do others do?

>I wish you were a puppy buyer of mine (no I have different breeds!) as you sound like the ideal person! Well done on doing so much research!

That's just what I was thinking!!

I am very flattered, thank you!  A lot of my friends and family have laughed at the level of research we've put into this!  To be honest i don't really get why anyone would get an animal which will be a family member, in their home, for 10-17 YEARS and not think long and hard about it!  I am planning for success with this puppy.  In fact I've had lovely rescue dogs before and will hopefully have them again, but my kids are too young for most shelters to consider us, for one thing, and for another i (unfortunately - i feel guilty about it but have to be realistic) really don't want a badly-bred-and-unkindly-brought-up staffy cross (which my local shelters are rammed full of).  If i have to give this dog up it will have to be due to massive unforeseen and unimaginable tragedy, avoidable error simply isn't going to be allowed to be an option.

Well done on your choice of book too. 

7.  I tend to sleep downstairs for the first few days getting the pup used to where he/she will sleep although there is nothing wrong with what you are planning.

Do not feel guilty about buying a dog which has been carefully bred with proper consideration and will fit with your family instead of taking on someone else's mistake.  I too have had rescues when I was a child but do not feel guilty for buying or breeding well bred pups when I want one to live in my family home with my children and other dogs.

Hi and well done on thinking first before you get a puppy home.

There are so many people on this forum that know far more than me, however I have had rescues all my life except for a pup I bought 5 years ago. After coping with problems caused by other people I felt that as a one off I wanted a pup to train and bring up with love from day one ( well 8 weeks actually)

As already mentioned by you I also kept her in a box by the side of my bed so that if she woke up crying I just had to put my hand into the box and she would snuggle up and go back to sleep. It is very stressful for a puppy that has always had litter mates to snuggle into to find itself alone in a dark strange place, so a hand in the box works wonders, and also they get to know your smell and associate you with safety, warmth and food.

As I had always had older rescues I had never used a crate before, but updating myself by reading lots of books I found that many recommended crates for training, so I bought one. I put my pup in the crate for about 1 minute and took her out again - that was the one and only time she went into it. I kept her in a safe place in the kitchen where she could not harm herself and where she was part of the family but had a hidey hole if she wanted a bit of peace and quiet. Mind you the crate came in useful as I kept all the shoes, slippers and things I didn't want her to chew in it !
But For me I didn't feel comfortable shutting my pup in a crate, however this is just me, and many people use them with great success. So personal choice.

I too have pup in a box next to the bed for several weeks to give reassurance.

BTW  Can I come and live with you please?

> But For me I didn't feel comfortable shutting my pup in a crate, however this is just me, and many people use them with great success. So personal choice.

I rarely use a crate in the house, I keep one up when I have a pup in order they can eat in peace, and kept it up for the last year or so because the eldest liked to lie in the best place to watch us and was getting bumped and trodden on when the others played, so it gave her the vantage spot but sheltered.

The main use for crates is for travel in the car and for staying away from home when you can't supervise a non dog proofed house/hotel room (and I use them at shows so they have somewhere to rest when I am handling another dog or going to the loo).

One of the things that puts me off crates is that a largeish standard poodle needs a VERY big crate as an adult.  I know people with smaller dogs who find them very handy for car travel etc. but the crates that would fit in our car while leaving some room for other stuff (and we have an SMAX so not a teeny car) would be immensely expensive (Ford only basically, or that bespoke company which makes the heavier duty car cages).  I can fit a cheaper one in easily but would have to fit it sideways and then heave it around to let the dog in/out and would have to stack shopping around it - feels a bad idea to me.  I intend to division the boot so the dog has half safely caged in, and the other half is available for other stuff (have already found dividers that will fit well and do this job without costing the earth) without it making the dog feel it's trapped in a mound of clutter.

> I can fit a cheaper one in easily but would have to fit it sideways and then heave it around to let the dog in/out

Most cages have a door in short and long end
http://www.petplanet.co.uk/category.asp?dept_id=772?NavSource=Crumb

For example: http://www.petplanet.co.uk/product.asp?dept_id=773&pf_id=57845

What a sensible attitude. I would follow Silly Sue's advice as that is exactly what I would do. I wouldn't carry the puppy around until the 2nd vaccination had been done as many germs are airborne. In the "good old days" puppies did not get out until about 16 weeks and did not come to any emotional harm. Poodles are pretty well adjusted so I would think could easily wait until protected by vaccines before meeting the world. Settling in to the new home and family first would be a good idea.  Wishing you the very best of luck.

Very few serious conditions/infections are airborne, Kennel Cough being one of them.

Many years ago dogs weren't vaccinated so early, the norm being 10 & 12 weeks.

Unless you disinfect everything everytime you go near your puppy then you will carry some germ/bacteria on your clothes/skin.

It is natures way that gives the puppy maternal immunity & more puppies vaccinated before the maternal immunity has waned or wormed on the same day as vaccination are at risk than those vaccinated after after maternal immunity has waned or not worked on the same day IMHO & experiences

Guide dog puppies have always been socialised from 6 weeks, not something that would be done without a full risk assessment

You might like to consider clicker training with your puppy

Understand about your crate in the car scenario but of not a crate for everyone's safety look at ine of the car harnesses.  There may be one that's crash tested but some sort of harness is best if u can crate or at least put in a dog guard.regatding vaccinations whatever u decide either ask the breeder to do both vaccinations or imo the better way is to do both yourself when you have the pup.this prevents the scenario.that your vet uses a different company amd wants to start all over again and the pup gets over vaccinated. I have always taken mine out and about in a baby sling until after 2 nd vaccines also I would.now vaccinate around 14 to 16 weeks  as motjere mmunity is usually present up to 12 weeks can interfere  with any immunity from the vaccine.have a look at the thread about boosters or join canine health concern. Info.in the files on their fb page .

As you've had more than enough good advice, I'm just going to pick up on a couple of points

1.  By ALL means let the breeder select what they consider should be the right puppy for you and your circumstances.   Most good breeders spend virtually all their waking hours with their litters, and so get to know each puppy really well.   As I don't imagine 'colouring' comes into this, the only thing yu have to decide on is male or female.   I had an all-male litter and a lovely couple who had had 2 bitches of the same breed before.   They still came, looked and fell in love with one of these boys.   So you may go in there with one idea, and come away with quite the opposite!

2.  Crates.   Before we went to live in Canada, I'd not been familiar with them here in the UK and I don't think many were at that time.   Shows in Canada were rarely benched as they are here so people use crates.   Which we did too.   And going on from that, found how useful they were.   Not that we needed them for puppies, having a purpose built pen for those puppies we kept from our occasional litters.   But I would say it's not just about being 'with puppy' that they can be so useful.   We use ours in the car (much safer to have them crated rather than roaming around in the back) and then also for recovering patients or those needing complete rest.   Also for hotel rooms.   So even if you don't use it much, it can be a huge pro in terms of other use, if you have your puppy used to being crated occasionally.    Now we are retired and down to just two, with no specific puppy pen, our current two, buy-ins, were crated at night, alongside my bed, to keep them safe and out of mischief while we were sleeping, and they still sleep in their crates even now.

3.   Neutering.   With a small breed it's usually, depending on what your own vet suggests, okay to spay before the first season - certainly not at any younger than 5 - 6 months.  Some vets prefer to allow one season before spaying but you'd HAVE to be certain to keep her safe during her first season.    Castration - I don't DO castration other than for medical need (retained testicles being one but even then I'd not rush to get this done).   For me the male should be at least 1 year, to give him time to mature a bit (growth plate closure) and the owner time to decide whether castration is really needed.  This operation (and it is surgery, however quick) only prevents unwanted litters.  Bad behaviour needs training!

Good luck - and being so patient over all this, I hope you eventually have the 'perfect puppy'!!    How many times would I call those in my waiting book, only to find they have bought elsewhere, or even bought a completely different breed!  Oh and THE person to advise you should always be your breeder, provided she IS knowledgeable, and reputable.

Wishing you lots of luck waiting for your puppy. Great you have a good relationship with your breeder too.
Books are good and tips/suggestions from other pet owners too sometimes theory and practise do not go hand in hand and often you find your own way that suits your personal circumstances
The only thing I find I couldn't cope with would be the breeder choosing my pup for me. I still feel I'd like that choice. I'm on the list for a breeder and I've discussed this with her already.

A short piece turned up on the village facebook page about a nearby car crash the previous evening where a dog had been thrown from one of the cars involved in the accident. Villagers were being asked to look out for the dog which, thankfully, has been found.
If nothing else, it served to remind me to either crate a dog in the car or at the very least have it tethered in some way such as a seat belt.

Just as an extra about crates, there's news about an uncrated dog being thrown from a car during an RTC. Luckily the dog has been traced

but the crates that would fit in our car while leaving some room for other stuff (and we have an SMAX so not a teeny car) would be immensely expensive

Hamster baskets do car crates which are lightish weight but when I got mine (don't know if they still do the same now) you can order a size that will fit where you want it with a door where you want it rather than a standard 'ford,vw' etc, not the worlds dearest either.

Crate indoors - dog health do one with an 'up & over' top hinged door which takes up far less space than the usual side opening door.
Don't ask why but I have two for one dog!!! His downstairs bed is in one and he goes in for a snooze as and when, the other is up in the 'spare ' room that I used as a workroom and he often comes up if I am busy and goes in that one. The door is very rarely shut on either apart from when I bring the bags of shopping in, he knows the system and when I come in with the first bag he goes in on his own so I can leave the front door open without bothering about him going out onto the drive/road.
I have a GSD so similar size as adult

> One of the things that puts me off crates is that a largeish standard poodle needs a VERY big crate as an adult.  I know people with smaller dogs who find them very handy for car travel etc. but the crates that would fit in our car while leaving some room for other stuff (and we have an SMAX so not a teeny car) would be immensely expensive

If you buy a crate that has two opening doors, one at the end and the other at the side, you should be able to have the crate across the back of the seats, with access via the side door.     Had to laugh really because when we had our first hound, here in the UK 'before crates', we had an MG Midget.   This was 'okay' as he could just about lie longways behind the seats for most trips.   However that all came to a sad end when we took a trip from the London area to Somerset to stay with my parents.   Clearly hound, his gear and our luggage weren't going to fit.   So that was when we had to come to the end of our MG days, and get a 'hound-car'.   An estate!!!   And that WAS a culture shock.

Forgot the neuter bit .reasearch pros and cons of neuter. Now I would not neuter male or female until after full maturity which is around 2 years.  There are more and more heath  problems  being found due to  early neuter both behavioural and physical.lots of good articles available to read if u google.the most recent I have seen being an higher incidence of diabetes in neutered males

furriefriends luckily we actually (already and by coincidence) use the same Vet!  They have several practices (two or three, they're not one of the super practices) and the breeder is local to us, so we will have complete continuity of veterinary care from birth onwards whichever puppy we get, and i have been able to independently verify the health and temperament of the parents because the breeder openly shared the name of her vet early on and i was in with a budgie not long after and asked my own vet if she knew them and it turned out she did (she is not their primary vet but covers at the practice where their vet is based often).  It was my first "oh, this is GOOD" moment with the breeder when she spontaneously shared her vet's name, after i'd told her who we would be using.  We had spoken to a few breeders before but their were either the right sort of breeder but not planning a litter any time soon (though i smile at that now since it will not end up being "soon" - at the time none were even looking for potential owners) or the wrong sort of breeder (who only asked when we wanted a pup and if we wanted a boy or a girl in their first response, nothing about the family dynamics, house, garden, lifestyle etc. at all).  It is slightly hilarious that we ended up finding a breeder so close that we use the same vet, as the first three i contacted were all over 150miles away.

I will have a second look at crates.  Ideally i'd like the 6th seat useable but i might be able to find something.  The one i found that looked right turned out to be 3cm too tall at the back but it strikes me now that i can move the seats in the middle row to make a bit more space, as my son is still rearfaced on that side anyway and doesn't need leg room.

that's great about the vet it helps a lot. Did you know you can get bespoke crates which can make life easier and use the space in your car better. I used barnes brooke for mine but there are lots of others. If not a crate definitely check out some of the better harnesses for the car

> without it making the dog feel it's trapped in a mound of clutter.

I soon learned my lesson with this one.  I was on the motorway driving down to the caravan and could hear a lot of shuffling.  Nothing I could do until I was off the motorway.  When safe to stop I got out of the car and opened the back door.  To find a Chihuahua sat in a shopping bag eating a loaf of Warburton's Toastie.     

Sorry not much time for a reply. But Great breed choice! :D

They are very bright, I have done agility with standards and it's like they only need to be told something three times (unlike my terrier that's on attempt 1000!). Training them is great fun - The walking sounds ideal but they love brain exercises too. Potential to do day time classes for anything from obedience to dog Freestyle is there :)

Brilliant questions - so well put. I'll be following this carefully. :)

Yes i am so excited to get started with our poodle puppy, it's not a breed i'd thought much about before i started looking for a family pet in 2014 :)  Previously i've had lab or retriever crosses and one mystery-mongrel who we think was a Pyranees X.  People seem to know very little about poodles, a few people have said, "WHY for goodness sake, all those silly haircuts!" and are shocked to hear they are regarded as the second-most clever breed (behind the collie) and that the haircuts are (gasp!) optional.  Of course i do know it's a generalisation and also that though it's great to have a dog that learns fast, it also means that bad habits can get ingrained very quickly too, so i'll have to be on my toes with training.

Two of my kids have autism (one high functioning/asperger's and the other we don't know yet - he is very bright and sociable but has a severe language delay and still being assessed) and my eventual plan, depending of course on temperament, is to train this dog as an autism/disability therapy dog.  I am going to teach the makaton hand signals with all my verbal cues so my son can ask the dog can sit/down etc. even if his language remains behind, and i plan, once all the kids are in school, to offer myself and the dog for therapy at the children's hospital and the schools for disabled and/or autistic children round about me.  All of this is at least 3 years in the future so if it doesn't work out that way i don't really mind, but it is what i plan to "do" with the dog to keep it entertained and satisfied with life.  My breeder knows all of this and has experience with autism herself.

I think i have lost count of my numbered questions now - as an add on to the walking one....Does play/training "count" as exercise?  If i have already walked my recently-fully-vaccinated dog 15-20 minutes on the nursery run are we still okay to play recall or fetching games in the garden/house for a few minutes at a time the rest of the day?  And what about heel work - i would probably practice that in the garden (because i think it's better to get it right in a situation where i'm not actually trying to get anywhere), but only for a few moments at a time - does that count as "walking"?

Facebook Replies:

Tracy Louise Davies says: If you want a healthier dog with a nicer nature, dont neuter. Or if you decide to neuter think more 4 to 5 years for a Standard Poodle.

---- Neil Fishburn says: Just question why is it 4 - 5 years before neutering a standard poodle just out of interest as I don't have knowledge of the breed as my breed is Labradors but would always reccomend not new teeing or spaying until fully grown at around 12-18 months at the earliest just wondering why 4-5 years for poodle?

------ Tracy Louise Davies says:  Neil , I would go for 4 to 5 years for any large breed, so they are fully mature. Same for Labs too. A Lab would still be quite puppyish at a year old. If you let an animal mature in both mind and body, it will always be nicer to live with IMO.

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Jayne Stark says: From experience I would not be so passive in the choice of puppy. You are paying good money for this puppy, If it is possible the breeder will allow you to visit several times and you will likely connect with a puppy. i would assume the breeder will have a pick of the litter. As a first time dog owner with young children I would suggest finding out about the nature of dogs and bitches. i am biased but would always choose a bitch. Go with the advice of your vet as regards speying. The puppy will only need gentle exercise in the first year of it s life. I cannot comment on crate training as I have had dogs all my life and not one of them has been in a crate. There is lots of help and advice on training find a reputable class and socialise the puppy with as many people as you can and as many situations as you can. Maybe consider flyball, agility lots of family friendly activities. The puppy will be part of the family and just a baby for a very short period. Training from a young age is important but enjoy the puppy experience.

Neil Fishburn says: Create training is useful but not a necessity my dog does still have create but mainly only used at night but is good place to put the dog while people especially kids eat so they aren't greeting. Don't use puppy pads make sure after every feed during sleep play the first thing you do is put them out to toilet they soon learn and will naturally head to the door then you just watch for the signs and let then out. The reason I mention toile ting as that is the main benefit of create training they don't wander off and toilet through the night as they don't like to go where they sleep restricting this movement helps them to learn to keep it in.

Alison Cochrane says: I have a 13 week old puppy as we speak. I got him at 8 weeks. First of all- the first week is so hard but I promise it is worth it!!!
Secondly- I would visit the puppies and couple times and - along with the breeder- make a decision together. You are wanting to know the pups personality to make the correct choice. I'm sure if she is a good breeder she will allow you to visit as she would want to correct pup in the best family.
Thirdly the toilet training you need to be on immediately, As the previous comment says. After everything - sleep, play, eat you need to get them out. I didn't use pads and he is 90% fully trained in 4 weeks!!! He peed every 15 mins in the first week or so, so he will learn quickly that he is to go outside. They will sniff about when looking to go, as soon as you see that get them out, then as soon as they go (Make sure they are fully finished though) lots of praise and a puppy suitable treat. It works so well. They aim to please. The pooing took a little longer as it wasn't as often but they get there.

At 12 weeks they should have had all jags and can walk. But they should only go 5 mins per month old they are twice a day. I'm still only at 15/20 min walks twice a day, then plenty of play inbetween works great!!
I WOULD recommend you leave your puppy from the start. We did that from day 1 and it's great as there is no issue leaving him now at just 13 weeks. If they get some time on their own (I'm talking no more than 2 hours when they are under 16 weeks) then they don't expect to always having someone there and are less likely to get separation anxiety.
I allowed my dog to socialise with family dogs that I knew were vaccinated so he would be safe to help develop his social skills and he is great with dogs and people now so if you have this opportunity I would take it.
Most of all, just enjoy the puppy stage!! It goes so quickly!!!
Best of luck hope this helps xxx

Facebook Replies:

Abby Lusty says: crate training is important as when dogs are ill or recovering from surgery they are expected to be crated at vets etc so much better if the dog is calm in a crate. Also if god forbid he/she injures themselves (broken leg, sprain etc) later in life then crating will be necessary to a full recovery. No good if the dog is stressed. also important to crate in a vehicle for safety

Louise Hay says: Puppies don't know when to stop, a crate is very much a cot for a tired child.

Leonie Macdonald says: Speaking from experience and a deep understanding of dog development it is vital to do some research on puppy classes. What youre ideally looking for is a structured lesson system that teaches you and your puppy dome life skills, so to accept and enjoy handling,grooming, being touched. To not jump and be frightened by surprises. To be confident and outgoing but know that manners are rewarded. Best to avoid anyone who tells you to be the boss or alpha of a dog, and best to avoid anyone who tells you to correct and punish using a loud noise or physical movement as these dont teach your pup anything but to be scared of consequences. If you require any advice come nearer the time I recommend any IMDT registered trainer, or any APBC / CCAB accredited or MSc/PhD qualified behaviourist.

Facebook reply:

"Emma Heslop says: Number 2: I would personally wait until the dog is fully mature before neutering. My own personal preference is 3 years old and even then it'd be a vasectomy for a male and ovary sparing spay for a bitch. I feel animals were born with hormones for a reason and the dog will ultimately be healthier if they're left intact. Only downside with OSS is the bitch will still come into season, but just couldn't produce puppies."

The manufacturers of vaccines state that only 1 vaccination is required for dogs over 10 weeks of age so giving 2 after 10 weeks goes against their guidelines

so many things go against those guidelines , makes me very cross. My two have allergies so vaccinations wouldn't come in to it for me anyway. I am sure vets generally wouldn't consider that if I were to come in for a booster as I have seen others that have been boostered