I'd like to ask contributors to the board what techniques they use for teaching their dogs to WALK TO HEEL and what are their personal reasons for using this specific technique (this may be because you physically struggle with another, or it has implications for future training - ie obedience work requiring a high level of accuracy).

Admin: we would like to keep this thread as your techniques and NOT for debate. If you would like to debate ANY issue raised in this thread, please start another thread headed Walk to heel - Debate

Please reply to the original post

1) I have held my treat at my side and walked, works some time.

2) I have also just given a little pop with the lead (depends what dog I'm walking).

3) I have used different training collars.

I have praised and treated for walking at heal, but I do think it is something I still really have to work on. Don't go out much in the winter (no place to go here with all the snow and boston's would freeze in this weather). I seem to only get the training in more in the summer unless I have enrolled my dogs into a class, and do practice a bit at home.

ttfn :)

Hi
I had a Gsd a few years ago that would not pay attention when walking on a lead-he was far too interested in what was going on around him.(he was a rescue and had never walked on a lead before.)I saw a programme on TV where the trainer attached held the lead loosely and walked with his dog.As soon as the dog got to the end of the lead the trainer would turn sharply 90 degrees,say heel and walk briskly.Repeat as neccessary.The dog learnt that he had to be next to the trainer AND paying attention to avoid the jerk on the lead. I tried it and it really does work-suprisingly quickly!!
Archer

yes the system with changing directions works really well
my 6 mth old lab heeled perfectlly after only a week of training

Number one essential is that the lead NEVER goes tight whilst you are walking. Stop before that happens! About turns, turning into your dog to "Crowd" him out. (Humans set the speed and direction not dogs!) all help to convince a dog that he does not know where you are going therefore cannot take you there.

Never ever take a young dog out if you are not in a position to give it 100% attention because any relaxation on your part will set the whole training back days or even weeks. Consistancy is what we need. Never allowing a mistake, a puppy to start pulling, and the training is easy.

Decide just what sort of heelwork you want. Really tight competitive heelwork is far to tedious for us and far to much of a mental strain for our dogs to maintain for long. I want it for when it's needed but I want a more open relaxed heelwork for general use. My dog is quite capable of determining which I want from my disposition. Walking in a field with a gundog stick and shes within a couple of foot or so, hand up precise footwork and her shoulder is level with and touching my leg.

Regards, John

bump

If your dog is constantly dragging forwards and it's a pain try this......

Shorten your lead so your dogs shoulder is level with your left thigh! Walk with both hands clasped behind your back and hold the lead in both hands. Now all strain of your dog pulling you is in your legs and not in your shoulder, arm or lower back.
Now as you walk and you step forward with your right leg, your left leg is behind you blocking the dog from surging forward with each step. To take that further with the persistent dog. Imagine you are marching ... left, right, left right left right etc.... change that to left right left right left...left..right left...left...right. As you pause for one step on your left leg, your dog anticipating you walking normally will pull forward and recieve a sharp correction! Then carry on walking normally with a random pause on the left leg if you need the correction!
If your dog stops surging forward and starts walking nicely next to you then you can drop your hands to the side - it's easy to put them behind your back and start again.
I've used this method on adult GSD's that have never been properly trained to walk on the lead with great success in next to no time!
Lara x

When i got Speed she knew what a lead was but had no idea how to walk on it - typical shoulder-out-of-socket pulling!! i used the "stop start" method - everytime she pulled ahead i stopped and took two steps backwards and she would invariably turn around and start walking in the right place. So i'd say "heel", and after about two weeks she figured out what she was supposed to be doing - i've never needed any corrections!

Annette

This is a method that can be used for dogs(not puppies) of the larger breeds or for reminding dogs exactly where the heel position is and for tightening up the heel position for competitive heelwork - it is best if they have some idea of what you want before you start

The aim is to get them to walk close and focus on you
and not anything else around

Tighten collar so it is close fitting at the top of neck behind ears.

With dog on your left side put your left hand in the back of the collar, back
of the hand facing forward, knuckes on back of dogs neck.

Put your other hand holdingthe left underside-side of her collar with the back
of your hand/arm under chin and use your wrist/arm to make dog look at
you rather than away.

Walk off briskly with whatever command you use (the briskness is important as the dog must realise you mean business, there is no point whatsoever in doing this slowly. Dog will probably struggle
(violently) but if you walk around in a large anti-clockwise circle for a
few minutes it should start to get the idea of what you want f.
Don't forget to praise when dog relaxes and reinforce the command
frequently.

When it seems to have the idea and you are throughly dizzy (this is hard
work on both dog and handler when done properly) then let go with your right
hand but keep the left hand loosely at the back of neck continuing in brisk circle.

Repeat from beginning if necessary and at the start of every walk for a few
paces.

There is no strangling of the dog or jerking involved in this method (just
exhausts trainer) and some dogs really enjoy the extra contact this give them.

~~~~~~~

A few things to remember with heelwork -
You should be facing forward, not twisted around to face your dog.
It should be done briskly not at a snails pace.
The aim of the exercise is to have your dog with you - not to strangle your dog or jerk its head off
If your dog in in front of you you are wrong! - Do not let it get in front even from a tiny pup as your dog is not then under control.
Practice makes perfect and more practice makes more perfect :-)

Christine

I have my pups walking on a short but not tight leash, with a clicker, as curious lab pups they look for the noise, clicker is alway held in front of me against my stomach. I use a pointed finger to lead pup to my side along with a slight jerk on lead, if he gets to far in front or behind, this also trains my labs to be watching for my hand commands, I do not use voice commands, only their names are used sharply if needed.
There is one slight drawback on this, I have one bitch who walks so closely and constantly watches me, that my knee keeps hitting her head and she keeps tripping me up, and thats off the lead. All others keep a safe distance from being stepped on, usually about 6/10 inches from me

Kay