
I went quite some time ago, about 15 yrs ago now.
I had a friend then who had been going every year for over 10 years - he had the sort of high-paid job where he could work like stink for 6mths, then spend 6mths overseas. He told me everything I needed to know, and in addition I bought the Rough Guide.
I got a cheap flight with accommodation, this is usually dormitory accommodation but you don't have to take it, and you can just part from the holiday rep at the airport and head off. It is so cheap there, it's very easy to do this. From my Rough Guide I had read about an old Colonial guesthouse in Colva which sounded marvellous and had 4-poster beds, so I just hired a taxi to take me there. It was all it promised, and Colva was a lovely small town, but after a couple of days continually being hassled on the beaches by peddlers I got a bit fed up.
My friend had astutely guessed I might find that a bit much, so he had given me directions to a favourite haunt of his, just outside Goa in "Real India". I got a train in Margao and went to Gokarna in Karnataka and really couldn't believe my eyes, it was amazing. My accommodation was very primitive but cost next to nothing, and I was right in the middle of real India - after all, I kept saying to myself I couldn't go all that way without seeing proper India. It was one of the most spectacular and memorable things I've ever done.
I was due to fly home on Boxing Day so I just hired a driver in Gokarna to drive me back to Colva pn Christmas Eve (I had left some luggage at the guesthouse there for a minuscule fee). The journey took the whole afternoon, was about 80 miles. and the road snaked through the Western Ghats, stunning mountain scenery, and cost only £12! Spent Christmas Day in Colva, and a taxi picked me up the next morning to catch my flight home.
Would do it all over again if I could!