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> If we are to have big breeds in this country we must stop saying how cute they are, and start understanding their needs and genetic ability and behavioural traits!! and socialise/train/manage accordingly.
(better that than everything being about 'management'
)- it's hard enough to do this now, without everybody getting the message that large guarding breeds have no place in our country. :(
>Here you can see the damage casued by ONE collie.
>Here you can see the damage casued when the womam was attacked by THREE Anatolian Sheperds.
> I'm not sure what this demonstrates, the woman herself said she was glad it was not a child they got hold of.
>
> The amount of damage caused by any dog will not be dependant on breed (and subsequnt reported bite-force), but on motive/state of mind ie. any dog with intent on causing massive damage will try it's best to do so.
> Motive/state of mind yes but I can't see how we can ignore the fact that some breeds are very much larger, more powerful and more inclined to be territorial.
(on-going, not forgotton about after puppyhood
), trained to the best of my ability, understood as much as possible. Ownership of such a breed does entail a lot more. Things like checking my garden is secure with no trespassers before I let him out for a wee. I even think of 'poor' potential burglars safety and leave a light on with curtains open at night so anybody can see through the window that I have a huge dog before they break into my house (he wouldn't bark
), so thay can avoid injury!!! >if you have a breed which can exert a huge bite pressure and needs to be highly socialised, you flaming well look after that dog as if your life depended on it
Please people, if you are out walking your dog(s) and see a huge dog, don't automatically avoid it just becasue it's huge, please judge it on it's behaviour. A play-bow from a giant breed means just the same as a play-bow from a tiny breed.
Some breeds do have stronger bite-force, but don't forget that even a smaller dog can crunch up bones - so they're powerfull enough to damage human flesh! Thats the whole point of teaching ANY breed of dog bite-force inhibition.
Demonising powerfull/huge dogs does not help anything. For these dogs to be the best they can they NEED socialisation (better that than everything being about 'management')- it's hard enough to do this now, without everybody getting the message that large guarding breeds have no place in our country.
>The owner may be a top breeder but that does not mean she made any more effort to socialize and train her dogs, than the average status dog owner. Dogs may be taught to behave in the show ring but that is not proof that they have been socialized and proofed to myriad situations that might expose what they are capable of doing.
> Absolutely! I hope I don't sound as if I would avoid a large dog just because it is a large dog
> I agree with you in principle but the reality is that if I see a bull breed or Akita etc.. out when walking my dog, I avoid. The reason is that the dogs concerned are more than likely to be intact males, there is a reasonable chance the owner is dodgy/has not bothered to properly socialize their dog. Additionally, I have witnessed a number of very unpleasant dog on dog attacks in my area, and heard of many more, and the culprit has always been one of the above.
>
>I generally find top show dogs can be less socialised than your average pet in some situations. Yes they are used to seeing lots of other breeds and walking round rings on lead, but most top show people have barely heard of things like the Good Citizen scheme,
No, not atall Lindasay
I undertand what you said and agree. I just worry about people taking things out of context and worry that readers with alleady poor views of large dogs would take your post as some of of clarification that all big dogs are a problem, just becasue they are big - even though I know that is not what you were saying atall.
>We also teach the owners how to groom/examine the dog
>I look at the two types of classes as being complementary, but definitely think Ringcraft better for sheer socialisation and meeting a much more varied range of dogs.
>>The experienced owners and handlers will be in the advanced classes, whereas at ringcraft a large proportion of the owners will be experienced and the adults they bring well socialised, having a brush up on showmanship or brought simply for the weekly social occasion."
>Those ringcraft handlers with adult dogs will not be in the puppy classes so how does ringcraft have an advantage over a normal obedience class then?
>Does a ringcraft class teach:-
>Recall?
>Retrieve?
>Walking to heel off the lead and at slow/normal/fast pace with right/left/about and left about turns as well as being able to stop the dog in >a sit/stand/down whilst doing this heelwork? And without extra commands?
>Stays both in and out of sight, in the stand/sit/down position?
>Sendaway?
>The dog being to stand/sit/down in any random order (DC) whilst the handler is at least 15 paces away?
>An emergency stop?
>The dog to walk backwards?
> "Judge the deed not the breed"
> It would not be acceptable to wait for something to happen before doing anything preventative in any other area of safety, the work place, utilities, the road etc.
> Does the breed/type of these dogs matter? Does it matter how small or large the dogs mouths were?
> I also think some breeds would be far more difficult to deter by simply shouting at them.
(They never ran from me & hubby shouting at them together, with hubby giving one of them a kick - they attacked his ankles, they just don't want to mess with Buster when they can see he is not being made to sit still!!)
> I would say yes, the size, strength and determination will affect the level of damage likely to be caused
(if you go by bred only and discount the fact that all dogs are capable of displaying any canine behaviour
) so how can you possibly predict how tenacious it will be????
> As demonstrated in the pics up put up earlier, a singal collie caused far more damage than the 3 anatolians, despite not being as large,
> The grown woman may have been far less damaged by the collies as she would probably have found them easier to fight off and the child may have been completely mangled by the analolians.
> there is no mention of any wound from the initial attack on her when one dog grabbed & held her arm.
> does not mean that it's OK for 2 loose JRTs to be harrasing a small boy.
> Of course not, no animal should be out of control but I know which out of control animal I would rather have to deal with.
people should have to prove they have a knowledge of the breed they want and are capable of owning it safely and responsibly. I know that's not a popular or practical point of view, but I'm sick to the back teeth of breeds being ruined in the hands of complete wazzocks
> I usually get shot down in flames for saying this, but I haven't changed my mind, it's got to a point now that I feel anyone who wants to own a dog should be licensed,anyone who has a history of violence should be barred from owning an animal, and people should have to prove they have a knowledge of the breed they want and are capable of owning it safely and responsibly. I know that's not a popular or practical point of view, but I'm sick to the back teeth of breeds being ruined in the hands of complete wazzocks, who shouldn't own a pot plant let alone a living breathing animal that has the potential to do damage.
>Recall?
>Retrieve?
>Walking to heel off the lead and at slow/normal/fast pace with right/left/about and left about turns as well as being able to stop the dog in >a sit/stand/down whilst doing this heelwork? And without extra commands?
>Stays both in and out of sight, in the stand/sit/down position?
>Sendaway?
>The dog being to stand/sit/down in any random order (DC) whilst the handler is at least 15 paces away?
>An emergency stop?
>The dog to walk backwards?
>The retrieve is a fantastic way of keep a dog fit both mentally and physically.
>Again, all dogs would benefit from being able to walk nicely to heel and to react when their owners change direction or pace.
>I can use the walk back when the dog walks into the kitchen just as I am mopping the floor, if he backs out it save all those muddy footprints.
>Similarly, if I walk into a room, then change my mind and turn round, it is easier to get the dog who is following me to back up rather then come in, turn round and then walk out of the room again.
>The DC can be used to correct a dog who has changed position in stays (though I personally would return to the dog and set him up again), it can also be used to get him to lie on his bed and settle when he woud rather sit up, and so on.
>I am teaching skills for life.
> It's usually the part where I mention that nobody with a violent history should be allowed an animal, that get's people rattled, I think it's perfectly reasonable.
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