Hi all
I've got a huge problem with my dog. I have a 4 month old husky/shepherd cross (as the owner claimed but I'm not entirely sure - some people told me that he looks like a wolf or wolf hybrid but I don't think it's possible since it's illegal in my country). For the first few days I've had him, he was an angel. Then he started being really naughty - I know all the puppies are like that, I'm not a novice owner, I used to have two german shepherds but they were never like this.
He bites when I'm playing with him, he bites when I say "no" to him, or when I eat and don't share with him or "just like that" (e.g. I'm sitting on the couch, and suddenly he whines/barks and bites me. I've tried many methods to stop this behavior - harsh "no", ignoring him, walking out of the room, giving him toys and rewarding when he bit them instead of me, but shortly after he bites me again. I have no idea what to do. My hands and legs are a bloody and bruised mess, everyone thinks I'm either abused or a self harmer.
Please, give me some advice, I'm losing my hope... I'm afraid this behavior will turn into aggression in future and he might really harm me or somebody else one day.

My hands and legs are a bloody and bruised mess, everyone thinks I'm either abused or a self harmer.

Oh dear, that can't go on can it?

First counter measure would be to wear trousers/jeans and tops with long arms to initially protect yourself (at least it is Autumn and no longer summer) Secondly, you need to stick to the two consistent tactics of a yelp when he bites followed by a time out of a couple of minutes and an ignore, let him back in if he bites, yelp and time out, soon it sinks in. I'm sure someone will post Ian Dunbar, The Bite Stops Here soon enough which is an excellent read, and better still works!

Some pups are just more ferocious in their play, it really is just play it is what he would be doing with his siblings, who would yelp their heads off as he and they dragged each other around, puppy play can be vicious, their teeth and nails are far sharper than an adult, sometimes they play rougher if a breeder has just allowed the litter to entertain themselves and they get wilder and rougher without human play and interaction too, (which may have happened) and poor pup does not understand the difference, or sometimes one or two pups are just like this.

However, it is absolutely nothing to do with aggression or  how they will grow up, so please don't worry about that, he thinks he is playing that is all, he's not being naughty just doing what instinct dictates, he needs to learn humans do not play and learn like that, we scratch and bleed very easily.

Are you initiating little training games and has he been enrolled in puppy classes? You need to distract his idea of learning and play with something more in keeping with our domestic dogs teaching him commands with praise and reward and playing fun games will occupy him and keep him off your arms and legs, also watch out that he is not getting over excited or over tired both cues for him to have a time out and rest. :-)

Don't worry, all puppies do this as they have no idea your arms are not chew toys! lol... at 4 months though he has apparently never been taught this by the person you purchased him from.. One technique that has worked for me with every puppy I have ever had is this.. when he bites you, say no in a sturn voice (not too harsh as he's in a fear imprint stage right now)  take your hand and place it around his muzzle so that you are folding his top gums unders his top teeth. When he tries to bite down he will bite his own gums and let out a wimper, then let go... Trust me, it takes only a few times of doing this for him to learn not to bite. After that immediately get him a toy and give it to him. Praise him when he takes it in his mouth.. he needs to learn toys are what he chews on, not arms! lol..good luck

> take your hand and place it around his muzzle so that you are folding his top gums unders his top teeth. When he tries to bite down he will bite his own gums and let out a wimper, then let go... Trust me, it takes only a few times of doing this for him to learn not to bite

Far better to give the dog a toy first, before resorting to harsh methods like this! All this will teach the puppy is that you can hurt him, and make him hand-shy.

I disagree that you purposely make a pup hurt itself to "teach it a lesson", I have never heard such rubbish in all my life.

If you google "The Bite Stops Here" by Ian Dunbar, he gives sound, workable advice.  An expert, who is well respected.

OK, I'll be predictable and post it LOL

http://www.cockersonline.co.uk/discuss/index.php?topic=64170.0;wap2

It really is good and explains why it's IMPORTANT for pups to bite but learn to control that biting - inhibiting it so that they are gentle means that there's less likelyhood of a dog ever giving a proper bite.  

Even better it really does work  :)

Thanks Dill, knew someone would bring it along. :-) My handbags too small.

Hmmmm, I never said this was to "teach the puppy a lesson" I said it has obviously not been taught that hands, arms etc are not play toys. I don't consider this harsh at all as the puppy is not going to bite down hard on himself and I have never seen a dog become hand shy from this at all. I don't agree it teaches the puppy you can hurt it, that is what is rubbish. Obviously you always offer the toy as the substitute but for more rowdy pups this doesn't always solve the problem.. I love this site, it truly cracks me up. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion but that does not mean their opinion is the correct one. Everyone on here must be an expert of every facet of dog behavior and psychology as any answer they disagree with their retort is in an attitude of self indulgent "know it all." To call my opinion rubbish shows a complete lack of maturity and an inability to engage in friendly discourse.

Oh, and Jean...when you use quotations it's to quote something someone actually said. No where in my first response does it say what you quoted. Google quotations, that will give you a head start.

When he tries to bite down he will bite his own gums and let out a wimper, then let go...

Now there's a recipe for teaching a dog to not let you open their mouth in future.

jolzew1 ,

May I suggest you read the link too?   It has really worked for so many people over the years and explains why bite inhibition is far more important than stopping mouthing and biting.

I used this method with my dogs as pups and despite having a very high prey drive, being working bred hunting terriers, when my oldest bitch was attacked by another dog she defended herself WITHOUT HARMING THE OTHER DOG AT ALL!  This from a breed which is known for the appalling damage they can do once they do decide to fight!

Everyone on here must be an expert of every facet of dog behavior and psychology as any answer they disagree with their retort is in an attitude of self indulgent "know it all." To call my opinion rubbish shows a complete lack of maturity and an inability to engage in friendly discourse.

The only "lack of maturity and inability to engage in friendly discourse" here is yours, you persist in this despite your total ignorance of the people you are being derogatory about.   Perhaps you should acquaint yourself with the expertise of the people you are so quick to criticise.

> To call my opinion rubbish shows a complete lack of maturity and an inability to engage in friendly discourse.

No, it shows a degree of enlightenment and education ahead of your own. Maturity doesn't come into it.
It was a hard job teaching people at first, that the earth wasn't flat! I suggest you look at the most recent scientific advances in the field of canine psychology.... There's proof if you want to read it.

Also, many countries now have animal welfare laws which prohibit cruelty in dog training. On the world wide web, it's worth taking that into consideration when giving advice.

To be fair with very mouthy determined pups I have used a similar method.

when the pup insists on mouthing my hand I ball it into a fist so that they gag and spit it out, or else have turned my thumb upward or downward so if pup applied pressure my thumb nail would prick the roof of the mouth or tongue, so pup realised that too much pressure caused it discomfort as well as me.

As I do not hold the dogs mouth or initiate the action it realises it is a result of it's own action and is unrewarding.

I have only ever had to do this with older pups, as the usual ignoring and ending interaction normally works fine with younger pups.  I am lucky though as my allies and pups main teachers of bite inhibition are their canine elders.

>Oh, and Jean...when you use quotations it's to quote something someone actually said. No where in my first response does it say what you quoted. Google quotations, that will give you a head start.

When he tries to bite down he will bite his own gums and let out a wimper, then let go... Trust me, it takes only a few times of doing this for him to learn not to bite.  

This is what you said.  Although you said you had finished on here, it appears you can't stay away!  LOL

What country are you in?  my wolfdog pup was constantly mouthing me and taking bits of skin off my hands and face, no growling or aggressive behaviour, it was as though he just automatically did it for no reason. I used to hold his cheeks while he kissed me in case he caught my face with his teeth. it took around nine months for him to grow out of it, and I'd trust him with my life now. If he bit down on my hand I would tickle his tongue with my finger and he stopped mouthing and started licking. why this worked I don;t know, but it did.

when the pup insists on mouthing my hand I ball it into a fist so that they gag and spit it out, or else have turned my thumb upward or downward so if pup applied pressure my thumb nail would prick the roof of the mouth or tongue, so pup realised that too much pressure caused it discomfort as well as me.

Brainless that's totally different to holding the mouth shut with the lips in between the teeth. That is the person doing it all, whereas in your scenario your hand was already in the pup's mouth. Like I said, holding the mouth shut like that is a sure recipe for creating a dog that will not open its mouth in future, be it for examination at show, teeth cleaning, pilling or just general checks at home -a problem I am sure nobody wants as we all need to open mouths of our dogs at some point. I have ONE dog out of all mine that clamps her mouth shut whenever I try to pill her. Yet she's the best behaved one, the highest trained etc. Lifting lips to look at teeth is fine, but opening the mouth -no way. The reason? Somebody tried to force her to retrieve when younger by putting the object in her mouth and holding it shut. There wasn't even any pain involved there and it was a soft tuggy, but the effect has lasted for life.

>you are folding his top gums unders his top teeth. When he tries to bite down he will bite his own gums

I'm assuming you mean his lips and not his gums! The gums are where the teeth grow out of, and cannot be folded!

I'd have thought you'd need to be extremely careful doing this to avoid teaching the dog to be wary of hands.

I find it interesting when Brainless an 'established' poster supports an alternative point of view that no one in turn challenges her with any real gusto.Incidentally without sounding sychophantic she normally gets it right.

Brainless did point out that she doesn't hold the dog's muzzle (As I do not hold the dogs mouth or initiate the action), so it's hardly alternative if you think about it.

I was just suggesting that in some very pushy and determined pups a little discomfort caused by itself is not totally a bad thing, but that the discomfort/negative association MUST NOT BE caused by the person.

In both instances it may work to stop the behaviour to avoid discomfort, but the association with the person will be a negative one.

A little bit like the difference between a child or animal touching something that stings or is hot as opposed to someone showing them into it. 

Wulfie,

The tongue tickling is interesting- wonder if anyone else has used that technique on here?

For older, determined 'mouthers', the ones that follow you to carry on biting, I have found tie-up stations work quite well. The dog has to be kept on a short line and there have to be dedicated tie-up areas around the house, strong enough to hold the dog in place. Any biting and the dog gets tethered to the nearest tie-up station and you can walk away and ignore- it's the one thing most dogs cannot bear. I believe this is a technique Dunbar explains.

Brainless,

As you know, what you describe is a type of one-trial learning, which almost always involves some kind of aversive or punishment ( as you say, a sting or hot plate). To work the experience must be sufficiently unpleasant that the animal/human learns over one or two trials never to repeat that experience. In that way it is a natural and valid part of learning, for us the difficulty is in getting the right degree of unpleasantness to ensure the lesson is quickly learned and ensuring that the animal does not learn that we are the source of punishment! The latter is very tricky and that is why trainers generally advise against punishment as a technique to promote learning.

I find it interesting when Brainless an 'established' poster supports an alternative point of view that no one in turn challenges her with any real gusto.

Because like I pointed out, it wasn't the same scenario at all. I'm sure if you read long enough you will see even us regulars disagree with each other at times. :)

I to have in the past with a determined biter balled my fist in the pups mouth, they very soon realize it's not much fun and though not painfull to the pup it is something they want to get out of thier mouths.
Most will respond to a high pitched yelp from me and an end to play time, but just occasionally something a little faster working is needed.
I would never cause pain to a pup and would never clamp a pups mouth closed but making the "chewing" item ie my hand not so interesting works quite well.
Aileen

Hi Goldmali I think that there are similarities with both techniques and how the dog would respond.Freelancerukuk explains it much better than I ever could in her post.Also wnen does 'discomfort' become 'pain'?.

It was not my intention to criticize Brainless, a poster for whom I have great respect. I was attempting to underline her warning about unwanted associations.

As we know, the use of punishment is highly contentious for the simple reason that it suppresses behaviour, it does not change 'thinking'. Punishment occurs naturally throughout life and the experience of pain/unpleasantness is a useful adaptive mechanism for survival. As a training technique it is fraught and easily misused in terms of pain, above or below an optimum level for the lesson to be learned. It is also one of the fastest routes to development of phobias one can think of. Also, some dogs and some breeds are arguably much more prone to development of phobias- highly reactive types, for example.

In regard to other recent discussions about aversive techniques, a rather useful means of measuring effectiveness is if the lesson is learned after one or two trials and with no unwanted after effects. If the lesson is not learned immediately, and has to be repeated many times and there are unwanted after effects, that is pretty much proof that the technique is not working. Reward training may not be perfect but it has the advantage of creating new, 'desirable' associations- on the downside it takes much longer, with many trials necessary.

A final point, some determined puppy biters may be innately pushy with rather unpushy mothers who perhaps have given them a little too much latitude. A valuable lesson most pups learn (also one- trial learning) is the first time mum tells them off, generally with just the right amount of 'fierceness' to make pup scared enough to be more careful in future, but not so scared that they fall apart. There is some research to suggest that overly fierce mums make for rather 'aggressive' pups. Pups then have to learn the same lesson with littermates. The odd pup either doesn't have the most competent mum, or is not a quick learner or has not learned to generalise that lesson to humans. Bottom line, is I'd try tie-out stations first.

The only response I can give is that we are all entitled to our own opinions, beliefs etc. This technique had never ever caused one of my dogs to be handshy, that is just crazy and my opinion is if that's the case, it's not a stable dog. This is not a harsh or severe method by any stretch of the imagination. I treat my dogs like my children and they have a great life.

The puppy bites down for a second on his own lips and stops biting. I use verbal reprimands but when he was too rowdy and wants to keep biting I would use that technique. It literally took a few times of doing that to my current pup and he has ceased biting hands completely and acts 100% as he did before, healthy, happy and just as confident as before. My Mother also used the technique with her Golden Retriever many many years ago and that dog was the fartherst thing from being handshy as I use to wrestle with him all out when I was a child. I guess somehow me, my family and my friends who have used this technique must have all aquired magical dogs since they went through this terrible treatment and somehow came out stable lolol..give me a break.

I used the same technique for my current female and my other male (RIP). Are there other methods for inhibiting biting? of course there are but does it mean that just becasue you feel another method is somehow superior to this one that it renders mine useless or negative for the dog? Sorry, I don't buy it. I respect everyones opinion but they way people on here jump all over someone for having just that, an opinion, is ridiculous. Then you all get even more pumped up becasue I resopnd with fire when you are the ones to initiate it by your responses (some of you, not all)Either way, it doesn't phase me, this is the internet, I dont' know you, you don't know me. I dont' know your life or your experience level with dogs and you dont' know mine. That's really the bottom line. If you fire at me I will fire back, end of story.

What we have to remember is that soem dogs and breeds are more or less sensitive than others.

What is a mild aversive (water spray for continued barking) for mine, a bold breed, they find mildly unpleasant, but that is could lead to a more pronounced negative fear association in a sensitive dog/breed.

I am quite sure that jolzew1 dogs/breed probably find this aversive very mild, but it coudl seriously impact in the dog human trust in anther breed.

I hear ya Brainless, points well taken and I should have prefaced my response with what you stated. With Akita's, this is nothing, I've never seen it phase one in the sense it developed any sort of phobia and it works after a couple times but I agree with you that for some breeds/dogs it might be too much or cause a negative association.

I have an Akita bitch who I would never have clamped her mouth closed so she bit her own lips.  They might be a strong willed breed but with my Akita bitch you don't even raise your voice with her, she listens to commands and does as she is told.  At most I have firmly guided her by her collar.  Although bold and a fiesty madam she is much more sensitive than my Rotts.  She learnt bite inhibition the same way as my Rotts and Staffie and GSD's for that matter.  If they went to chew on my hand I made a fist and didn't move, they get bored from no reaction and move their head away, they get praised and told good leave.  My young Rott was the most persistant and sometimes I walked away so she had a time out and other times when she was mouthy through excitement I restrained her by holding her collar and taught her to sit and wait....she soon picked up on this and realised that meant she got a fuss.

My Akita is not handshy, she loves visitors, is extremely good with strangers making a fuss of her etc but I note in one of your other posts you say your male wasn't keen on people stroking him and would bark at them?  This isn't a sound dog and not a sound Akita.

I do not clamp there mouth down, you misunderstood the technique. You take your hand and fold it over their muzzle which puts their lips underneath their top teeth. They then continue to try to bite down (to bite your hand) and bite their own lips. There is no clamping down on their jaw.

So, with one statement, that my male did not allow many people to pet him on the top of the head correlates to him not being a sound dog? That doesn't even make sense. I don't even know if I should actually respond to such nonsense. Such a silly statement to make that because he was Aloof and did not allow complete strangers to pet him on the top of the head (which is an extremely dominant thing to do to a male dog of that breed that the person doesn't know) that he was not sound. Anyone that he knew he would allow to pet him on the head but a complete stranger, nope, not usually but if he did it was mainly woman that he would allow to do that on a first meeting.

All my Akita's are stable, sound dogs. Don't make a statement of such authority when you fail to know anything about my animals, have never met them and you make your ascersion based on one comment about my dog. You are a fool.

Your Rott must not be a sound dog considering you have to restrain it for compliance.

jolzew1,

I'm sorry that you felt I was firing at you, that was not my intention.

Brainless and yourself each make a valid point about breed difference and what is aversive and I accept that. As I said, if you use an aversive technique and after one or two trials it works and there are no ill/unwanted effects and the dog has not formed a bad association with you- then okay. I have not suggested that these techniques never work, only that they need to be used with extreme care because of the risks involved if the wrong associations are made. This is why they are not promulgated in the same way reward training is. People do get these sort of techniques wrong. My view, which I think many others share, is that the risks attached to reward training are not as great and so should be the first port of call. But, of course, you are perfectly entitled to disagree with this.

I do agree that Akitas are a breed that need very clear and consistent boundaries and I look forward to hearing more about how you get on with your two. They are at once extremely strong-willed but also rather sensitive...are they not?

Freelancerukuk

No need to apologize at all my friend. I was referring to 'Staff' and 'Merlot.' I have no qualms about people disagreeing with anything I say or feel. The problem arises when the response is in a condescending self righteous tone. When that is the response I get then I will respond in the same manner. Respect begets respect in my book. If someone wants to "battle" over a topic then I'm all for it as I'm comfortable with my knowledge base in this area but when there is a negative attitude contained within the response then I have a problem with that and the person levying those statements. Now, that being said, it's hard to perceive the tone in a writing but when someone calls something I do "Rubbish" or "my dogs aren't sound" instead of answering in an intellectual way then I will respond strongly. I would freely give my life for my Akita's and they would do the same for me. They live a wonderful life.

Your posts are the type of response I like. They are thought provoking and provide your opinion without a judgmental tone to it. I also agree with what you say, its dog/breed specific and has to be done correctly. Some techniques are not for everyone and every dog.

My Akitas and I get along in a way words could never describe like most relationships true animal lovers have with their pets. With my Akita's I have always done what I thought would help to keep them comfortable with the pack structure. NILIF is something I have always used as well as making sure I pay attention to the small stuff such as leaving the house before them when going on walks, picking up their toys after play instead of leaving them down etc. My dogs live a life of riley I assure you lol.

As far as the sensitive part, you are dead on with that lol. Akita's are sensitive animals. When I brought my puppy home my female did not come near me, nor lay in her usual spot for the first day. I knew she was sensitive to this new family member as my female literally never leaves my side and always lays in her favorite spot. She is also very strong willed but I pick and choose my battles carefully. They are very intelligent and very affectionate. My Avatar is my first Akita, Buddha, with my nephew. He was a phenomenal dog and when it was time to say goodbye I brought a vet to my home because I wanted him to be as comfortable and calm as possible on his final journey. He literally died in my arms. This is how much I love my dogs and if anyone challenges that or makes ridiculous assumptions I will attack back.

I guess if you look at my Avatar 'Staff' was right. Buddha definitely was not a sound dog which is why he was so affectionate with children even though not being raised with one. Anyone who owns an Akita knows this is a challenge as most bond with children they are raised with but usually don't have the same tollerance for children not in the family.

"take your hand and place it around his muzzle so that you are folding his top gums unders his top teeth. When he tries to bite down he will bite his own gums and let out a wimper, then let go... Trust me, it takes only a few times of doing this for him to learn not to bite." - to quote what has been said by someone already !! In my experience, my bf did this a few times to my 6month pup when she was 4month or so (much agenst my discust when I saw him once, he has not done it since) but then since then I have had probs with her in the way that i can not have a look in her mouth or at her teeth anymore with out her getting stressed, its hard work to get her to let me look. Currently getting better as my bf has not done that since, and am working on it, she seems less and less stressed now when i try to have a look. So in my experienece not a good tactic to use, and i dont agree with it and would not of done it like that myself, but i suppose diff things work with diff dogs n owners. I did not really do much training with my pup on this (play biting), I just simply said 'no', i didnt stop play or anything as as soon as i said no she would take her mouth of me, yea she would do it again a min later but i would jus say 'no' again and now at only 6months old she seems to have nearly grew out off doing it at all :)

Lurcherowner

It's hard for me to give my thoughts on this because I have no idea how your boyfriend used this technique. From yoru dogs reaction it sounds to me like he was gripping the muzzle forcing the pain himself rather than the puppy just trying to bite down and hitting his own gums. 4 months old sounds offly old to still be biting hands and my guess would be your boyfriend applied his own pressure which is not the point of the technique. Sorry it didnt' work for you and caused your dog some type of fear of you opening his mouth but it worked fine for me and all my Akitas. None have been fearful at all in that context but this is the nature of life. What works for me in my life may not work for you. It's what makes the world go round :)

> Please, give me some advice, I'm losing my hope...

Don't loose hope :) I thought my pup would chew me to death before I taught him how to controll his biting! Being a giant breed, he was big enough to knock me to the floor in order to chew on my head We got through it :)

Do have a read of the link another poster has put up called "the bite stops here", it highlighs the importance of teaching pup to controll the FORCE of it's bite BEFORE you stop it from biting alltogether.

How many in the original litter? Under 3 pup not enough to teach about bite inhibition,over 7 and too many for mum to teach.

Husky cross will always be harder work I find but any sort of challenging will bring out a part of their nature that is not too pleasant at all and set up a challenge between you that could last literally for years. What about an indoor house line soyou can control pup's movement and when pupstarts simply hold out line away from you or tuckunder your foot and wait for behaviour to stop. If tucked under foot then give at least 6 inches of spare line. Oh and wear wellies!!

Try tying pup up and leave 3 foot of loose lead,take a toy and start a game,if pup bites recoil with toy to 4 foot, so out of range, turn head away and ignore pup for 30 seconds, ignore all barking behaviour etc. When calm start game again. Teaches pup to push a toy on you instead of seeing you as the toy! remeber dogs ask each other to play by biting and also it'sagreat attention seek so exam EXACTLY how YOU react, lots of yelling and you going red in the face is excellent fun!!

It rarely leads to an aggressive dog it's part of learning and remember violence begets violence!! And dogs are not born meglomaniacs!

Thank you for the replies everyone, I really appreciate them. Unfortunately I don't have time to reply to each one of you but I'm grateful for every response I received. And it was good to be able to see all the different POVs...

As to the questions some of you asked - happyhoundgirl - there were 4 puppies in a litter. You know, he's very keen to learn new things, it took him about a week to learn most basic commands. I've also had a problem with food aggression though after 6 days of working on that, this problem doesn't exist anymore. It's just that biting...
Thanks for advice!

You've all given me hope so training starts tomorrow! 

> What works for me in my life may not work for you. It's what makes the world go round :-)

Exactly !! I may not agree with some techniques, as others may or may not, but it is just a difference in owners and the dogs, what may work wounders for one pet and owner may not for another and visa versa !! And I had only just recently got her when this happened (at 4 months old) so my guess is she had no training on it b4 cuming to me, and then as I said I didnt really have to do much training with her on this issue as I didnt see it as a big prob and now it hardly exists (except occassionally to my bf as he dont give her the right commands or teaching so she is confused when it comes to him).

Im glad you are feeling hope with this matter of yours :) I must say u have had some great advice and hope all goes well for you :)

Ha ha I love your judgement...you are very rude and don't really deserve the time of day but you obviously read my reply wrong...holding a puppies collar can actually be a life saver...I also don't see how gently holding a collar while stroking a puppy so they don't get overly bouncy is wrong.

And yes after training and showing dogs including Akita's for many years I do think its odd that you can't stroke a dog without it backing off and barking.  The only Akita I have known do this actually ending up biting someone.

Please keep your rude comments to yourself.

> You've all given me hope

Yay :-D Glad you're feeling positive now.
It would be great if you can update on your progress.

Good luck, but most of all, stay calm & patient :)

I rarely post on here but I read a lot. Got to say that Jolzew1 dosn't appear rude to me at all. Think their responses have been well measured and polite.

I think postign style can get people off on wrong foot with each other, then posts and becoem a little defensive/antagonistic.

Once people have been posting a while we get to know their style and are less apt to misunderstand each other.

Barbara - you are so astute.

Hi all,
Just wanted to make an update on my puppy's progress! It's getting better and better everyday. Firstly, he never bites that hard anymore. Secondly, he bites less and less often with each passing day.
I'm very happy and all my wounds are healing ;)
Thanks for all the advice again!

Great news :)
Thanks for coming back to give an update, it's great to hear when things are working out :) It's also very helpful for anybody else reading the boards and being bitten to pieces by thier pup - there is light at the end of the tunnel!

Well done :)

I am so glad too that you are making progress. It does sound as though he'll turnaround. But you haven't told us what methods/training you have used. Please do share- unless I have missed something, feedback is so useful for us all.

Just reading back over the last few posts where happyhoundgirl posts about using a house line (great advice btw)- she talks about 'when pupstarts'. This is obviously a typo and there should be a gap between pup and starts, but I think 'pupstart' is a wonderful expression for a naughty pup and one I shall use in future!! :)

As to the method I've been using - practicing The bite stops here every day :)