Hi, not sure if this is in the right place.

I have a four month old puppy, she walks - for the most part - brilliantly on the lead, but as soon as you let her off, she refuses to come back, and when you walk towards her, runs off, thinking it's a game.

I'm just wondering as to how you trained your own dogs to come back when called, as I'm thinking that she won't be able to be let off at all when on a walk, if this is how she behaves when let off.

Many thanks.

Go into a large secure field/grassy area, let her off, let her wander and then run away at top speed calling her as you go. I'd be surprised if she doesn't follow- when she gets to you reward her. In other words, change the game rules to she has to catch you!

You can also put her on a long line (12 ft) and let her wander around while holding one end. Call her once and then gently guide her towards you and reward once she is at your feet. Practice, practice, practice and initially reward each time. After a while she should begin to come to you without the gentle reeling in. Now reduce the frequency of the treats to once in every three times and carry on. Do some trials of giving her greater freedom by letting go of the line. Sometimes she'll readily come as by now she should be associating you with the chance of a yummy treat. Other times, as when she is around other dogs she may not come so readily- on these occasions you can use the line to gently get her to comply. Try only to ever call her once. Remember, running away from her is also a great way to get her to comply.

All puppies want and need games so the trick here is to get her to associate coming to you as part of a great game. One way to achieve this is to teach her to retrieve a ball or cuddly toy you have thrown out for her. Many dogs soon twig that the toy only does the fun flying stuff when they have brought it back to you. Eventually, after much practice retrieves with toys can become a brilliant way of controlling your dog and ensuring that coming to you for a game to ensue is at least as exciting, if not better, than anything else out there. Of course, some dogs will never be great retrievers, they may prefer a game of tuggy or something else. Part of the pup's development should involve you figuring out what games and toys they really love.

Don't worry, a decent recall is hard for all of us and it does need working on as well as patience and consistency. Also, you don't say what breed/type your dog is- some breeds are much better on recall than others- but it is possible with most.

Hope this gives you a few ideas. Good luck.

I have to say this is one thing I have never had trouble with. I started recall before he ever went out on a walk. Would just call "COME" and treat when he responded. Once he was old enough to go out I would put him on a long training lead, let him go a good distance and then call and reward. TBH I only had to do the training line for the 1st week of walking out and about before I felt confident enough that he had got it. I'm not saying every dog is that quick but patience is the key.

Personally I wouldn't allow my dog off lead if his recall wasn't 100%.

If she doesn't respond to your voice try whistle training. I did this as a back up. Sometimes I wonder on really windy days if my voice would carry but a whistle certainly does. Again, I did this on a reward basis. I started just blowing the whistle when in the garden. If he looked at me he got a treat. On the 2nd blow, he came running up the garden and sat at my feet. I would then periodically blow the whistle when he wasn't expecting and treat every time he responded. I have to say, my boy picked this up really quickly.

These are methods that worked for me but there are loads of really knowledgeable people on here that may have other ideas which might work better for you.

Good luck with the training :)

Hi,

I'll have a go at that - she seems to enjoy the flying toys.

She's a Cavalier x Bichon cross (Cavachon)

Many thanks :)

Try this:

Why can't I get a reliable recall?

'Come' is no harder to train than any other behaviour but in real life it has a huge number of criteria that have to be raised one at a time in order to guarantee success.
Often when puppies are brought home to their new owners this is the first time they have ever been separated from their dam and siblings and so they naturally attach themselves to their new family by following them about everywhere.  Owners find this quite attractive and wrongly assume that this trait will continue into adolescence/adulthood, whatever the circumstances.  A dangerous trap to fall into...

At some point in time, usually from around 6 - 10 months, depending on the individual, "Velcro" dog will morph into "Bog off" dog (this is especially true of a breed that has been developed to exhibit a high degree of initiative).  This is the time when owners suddenly realize that their dog will not recall when it sees another dog/person etc.  Not only is this inconvenient but potentially dangerous as the dog could be at risk of injury from a car/train/another dog etc. 

How and when do I start with a puppy?

My advice is to prepare for this inevitability from the day you take your puppy home.  If you are lucky the breeder will have started this process whilst still in the nest by conditioning the puppies to a whistle blown immediately before putting the food bowl down during weaning. 

Dogs learn by cause and effect ie sound of whistle = food.  If you, the new owner, continue this from the moment your puppy arrives you will lay down strong foundations for the future. 

By using the whistle in association with meals/food you need to establish the following criteria:
*  Come from across the room.
*  Come from out of sight
*  Come no matter who calls
*  Come even if you are busy doing something else
*  Come even if you are asleep.
*  Come even if you are playing with something/someone else
*  Come even if you are eating

Once this goal has been realized in the house, drop all the criteria to zero and establish the same measures, one at a time, in the garden.

Once this goal has been realized in the garden, drop all the criteria to zero and establish the same measures, one at a time, in the park/field etc.

To train this, or any other behaviour:

1.  Make it easy for the dog to get it right
2.  Provide sufficient reward

Do not expect a dog to come away from distractions in the park until you have trained it to come to you in the park when no diversions are around.  Be realistic and manage your expectations; your sphere of influence/control over your dog may be only 20m to begin with, therefore do not hazard a guess that the dog, at this level of training, will successfully recall from 50m or more away. Distance, like every other criterion, must be built up over time.

Some simple rules to follow when training the recall:

*  Whistle/signal/call only once (why train the dog to deliberately ignore your first command?)
*  Do not reinforce slow responses for the dog coming eventually after it has cocked its leg, sniffed the tree etc (you get what you train!)
*  If you know that the dog will not come back to you in a certain situation, go and get him rather than risk teaching him that he can ignore you.  (If you have followed the programme correctly you will never put your dog in a position to fail).
*  Practise recalling the dog, putting him on the lead for a few seconds, reinforce with food/toy etc and immediately release the dog.  Do this several times during a walk etc so that the dog does not associate a recall with going on the lead and ending the walk or being put on the lead with the cessation of fun.
*  Eventually, when the behaviour is very strong, alternate rewards ie verbal praise, physical praise, food, toy and also vary the "value" of the rewards, sometimes a plain piece of biscuit, sometimes a piece of cooked liver etc so that you become a walking slot machine (and we all know how addictive gambling can be)!

In my experience recall training should be consistent and relentless for the first two years of a dog's life before it can be considered truly dependable.  You should look on it as a series of incremental steps, rather than a single simple behaviour, and something that will require lifelong maintenance.

What about an older or rescue dog?

Follow the same programme as outlined above however for recalcitrant dogs that have received little or no training, I would recommend dispensing with the food bowl and feeding a dog only during recalls to establish a strong behaviour quickly. 

Your training should be over several sessions a day, which means you can avoid the risk of bloat.  It is essential that the dog learns that there will be consequences for failure as well as success. 

Divide the day's food ration up into small bags (between10 - 30), if the dog recalls first time, it gets food, if it does not, you can make a big show of saying "too bad" and disposing of that portion of food (either throw it away or put aside for the next day).

Again, raise the criteria slowly as outlined in puppy training.

Hunger is very motivating! 

For those of you who believe it unfair/unhealthy to deprive a dog of its full daily ration, not having a reliable recall is potentially life threatening for the dog ...............

How do I stop my dog chasing joggers/cyclists/skateboarders/rabbits/deer?

Chasing something that is moving is a management issue.  Do not put your dog in a position where it can make a mistake. Again you need to start training from a pup but if you have already allowed your dog to learn and practise this behaviour you may need to rely on a trailing line until your dog is desensitised to these distractions and knows that listening to you results in a great reinforcement.  Chasing is a behaviour much better never learned as it is naturally reinforcing to the dog, which makes it hard for you to offer a better reinforcement.  If you want to have a bombproof recall while your dog is running away from you then use the following approach:

Your goal is to train so that your dog is totally used to running away from you at top speed, and then turning on a sixpence to run toward you when you give the recall cue.

You need to set up the training situation so that you have total control over the triggers.  For this you will need to gain the co-operation of a helper. If you have a toy crazy dog you can practice this exercise by throwing a toy away from the dog towards someone standing 30 or 40 feet away. At the instant the toy is thrown, recall your dog! If the dog turns toward you, back up several steps quickly, creating even more distance between the you and the toy and then throw another toy in the opposite direction (same value as one thrown)..

If the dog ignores you and continues toward the thrown object, your "helper" simply picks the ball up and ignores dog. When dog eventually returns (which it will because it's getting no reinforcement from anyone or anything), praise only. Pretty soon the dog will start to respond to a recall off a thrown toy.  You will need to mix in occasions the toy is thrown and the dog is allowed to get it ie you do NOT recall if you want to make sure it does not lose enthusiasm for retrieving.

For the food obsessed dog, you can get your helper to wave a food bowl with something the dog loves in it and then recall the dog as soon as you let it go to run towards the food; again if the dog ignores you and continues to the food, your helper simply ensures the dog cannot access the food and start again.  (It is extremely important that the helper does not use your dog's name to call it for obvious reasons).

Gradually increase the difficulty of the recall by letting the dog get closer and closer to the toy/food. Praise the moment the dog turns away from the toy/food in the early stages of training. Don't wait until the dog returns to you; the dog must have instant feedback.

Once the dog is fluent at switching directions in the middle of a chase, try setting up the situation so that it is more like real life. Have someone ride a bike/run/skate past. (It is unrealistic to factor in deer/rabbits however if your training is thorough the dog will eventually be conditioned to return to you whatever the temptation in most contexts).

Until your training gets to this level, don't let the dog off-lead in a situation in which you don't have control over the chase triggers. Don't set the dog up to fail, and don't allow it to rehearse the problem behaviour. Remember, every time a dog is able to practise an undesirable behaviour it will get better at it!

Most people do not play with toys correctly and therefore the dog is not interested in them or, if it gets them, fails to bring it back to the owner.

Play the two ball game, once you have a dog ball crazy.  Have two balls the same, throw one to the left, when the dog gets it, call him like crazy waving the next ball; as he comes back throw the other ball to the right and keep going left right so that YOU are the centre of the game and the dog gets conditioned to return to you for the toy. Once this behaviour is established you can then introduce the cues for out and then make control part of the game ie the game is contingent on the dog sitting and then progress to a sequence of behaviours.

HTH

Not sure if your dog is used to clicker training but I've seen it used to a good effect. There's a YouTube video that explains it better than I can;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L5UyY_GPZAU

tohme
Absolutely brilliant post.  Was going to copy aspects that I carry out myself, but no point.  Advice is spot on.  It is great that folk with experience take so much trouble and time to give advice.  The OP should be well pleased.

Everyone  thank you, I will be attempting some of these; hopefully my girl will take to one. :)

> tohme
> Absolutely brilliant post.  Was going to copy aspects that I carry out myself, but no point.  Advice is spot on.  It is great that folk with experience take so much trouble and time to give advice.  The OP should be well pleased.

excellent post can we have permission to copy and use ?

Yes agree, excellent post by Tohme....nothing else to add.

I agree, fabulous post from tohme, everything there you need. :-)

Training should always begin in the home, I too whistle train from the minute a pup is through my door, it's fun, it's easy and the pup does not mistake what you are asking, if training is fun with loads of praise, puppies pick up soooo........ fast.

Nothing more to add after thome's excellent post.

I am just seeing this.  I note some others have asked permission to copy but it has not been given.  I'd like permission as well, if possible.  Please?

To add, I saw the throwing the ball left then right on a U.K. gundog site.  It was called North/South there.  It helped me get my boy's impeccable recall back after he reached the "bog off" stage.  LOL.  He was about 1.5, so I had a longer time than normal it seems.  His recall was built at a young age by letting him go out on his own and using contiguity training when he was coming anyway.  Worked fabulously.  Now, happily, we are back to great recall off of bicycles, deer, ATVs, snowmobiles, wild turkeys, and just about anything you can think of.

No problem, copy away.