My 16 week old Cocker Spaniel is pulling on the lead when we go for a walk.  The training at my classes told me if she goes too fast then I should slow down and if she slows or stops, give her a quick pull on the lead and keep walking or even speed up.  I have been trying this for a week now and I just find that if I slow down she pulls so hard that she ends up choking and foaming at the mouth.  Clearly she's not getting enough air into her lungs!

I always walk when she is hungry, so she doesn't have a full stomach.  I am going to my class tomorrow night and will discuss it with them again, however wondered if anyone had anything else to suggest.   She is so small and I am worried about causing damage to her throat or neck.  She has a soft webbing collar so hopefully it won't hurt her.

Any advice welcomed!

Hi!

I have a 14wk old cocker, the training class I go to teach that if the dog walks ahead of you you quickly change direction and walk back and keep repeating this, they all use the half check collars for lead training there, I wasnt keen at first and wanted mine in a harness BUT they were right and hes fine on the lead, walks by my side most the time and when he gets ahead now I just check him back.

Oh that's interesting.  Thanks for that.  I assumed she was too young for a half check.  That would probably be better for her as it would just apply the pressure when it's needed.  I am hoping that we are doing lead pulling at my class tomorrow night and will talk to them about using a half check.

Thanks!

Hi super spaniel,

since she is always walked when hungry, try using vocal encouragement with randomly given treats to keep her close to you and her attention on you :)  Dragging pups on the lead is never a good idea - better to encourage them forward.  Equally pulling against them only gives them a mission to get further ahead LOL.  Having something particularly tasty such as roast chicken, cheese lumps etc used only for training should keep her keen so long as you don't overdo the amount you give and don't use it every time she pulls or puts on brakes :)

Most often the advice is (for pulling ahead) is stop every time so dog learns pulling gets him nowhere.  Now I'll be up front here and say that this is a method that I've yet to persevere with myself so it's effectiveness is only based on observing improvement in others dogs and hearsay!

Half checks aren't necessary although TBH personally I prefer them when pups outgrow their original soft collars as this is what they wear at training and shows so better IMO they get used to them early on.  However by that stage they are keen to walk so never do the rigid sit routine and already have a basic idea that pulling is not acceptable.  When adults they move onto slip leads but again, personal pref.  With a half check it is VERY important to get the size right - if it is too tight then the puppy will be choking on it if pulling, too loose and it can easily come over the head if they lag behind or suddenly reverse.

HTH, Teri

Hi  Teri

Thanks.  I have just come back from walk and she was pulling so much again that she was sick.  But she brings up white foamy dribble, which worries me. She dribbles badly in the car, so maybe she's nervous as well as pulling?  She seems happy to be out and gets excited the minute the lead appears.  So she must enjoy going out.  I have used vocal encouragement since we started walking and sometimes she responds well.  Othertimes she just wants her nose to the ground the whole time and either rushes or just stops.   Thanks for the advice on the treats.  Our classes recommend treats be given at the end of a walk, but I am going to start taking them out again.

It's training night tonight so I am going to have a good chat with the trainer and see if I can fix it.  I am determined to get it right!

Thanks
Sarah

Do you do any training at home ? I always train my puppies before taking them out on the lead. I do my training without the lead & the younger you start the better. A mixture of treats & toys as rewards.

You could use a very very old method to stop her pulling, make a loop with the lead & when she starts to pull release turn the opposite way & release the loop the loop(keeping hold of the end of the lead of course), suddenly your puppy has nothing to pull against as the lead is now slack, loads of praise & a treat if you want when she starts to walk with you again. It's a method that Mic Martin uses on Dog Borstal, I was taught it back in the 1960's

Tugging & pulling actually encourages the dog to pull against the restraint

That's a good suggestion, thanks.  I do train at home as well as out on the lead.  I have homework each week from the classes and I spend time walking around the house on the lead whilst doing this.  She doesn't pull at all in the house.  I think that being a spaniel, her instincts are go head for the nearest bush to sniff around in and that's why she does it when we are out.  I know it can be broken. 

I will try the loop releasing technique.  I have seen them all do it on Dog Borstal, but had forgotten about it.  Thanks for the reminder.  I will practice it in the garden.

I've tried moonmaidens suggested technique successfully with 2 dogs renowed for pulling. However, because of their breed I cannot let them off the lead so expect them to walk to heel on the way to the field/park etc but when they get there let them run on a long lead and worry that this may confuse them and send them conflicted messages about when they do have to heel and when they can run. Any suggestions?

I would second the Mic Martin (Dog Borstal) method. Worked for me (well my dog!). The only thing is you look a bit stupid when the dog starts pulling and you change direction. You can end up going backwards and forwards a few times before the dog gets it and to other people like you dont know whether you're coming or going :-).....actually i never know whehter im coming or going so no change there!

Perhaps use a normal lead for walking to heel with the command "heel" then when you enter the park or filed change leads and command to signal they are free to run on a long lead???
As soon as i bend down to take my dogs lead off for a run he knows whats coming but does not run away until i've given the command.
Not sure if thats any help but all i can think of at the top of my head!

In Response to Moonmaiden

Were you watching the episode this week?

It seemed to work well for the Springer.

The one that impressed me though was the Beagle Cross that the other Male trainer was working with.

the owner almost had a love/hate view of the dog and there was no real relationship which worried th trainer.

the dogs attitude was f off who are you to order me about. 

It was lovely to see once the dog and owner were communicating and some respect was built up that the owner had moved on to training her dog and they showed her clicker  training it to do all sorts of turns and tricks with great enthusiasm and enjoyment on his part.

Sorry to hijack the thread :D

With my dogs the constant changing direction and also stopping dead until they are back at heel before moving off has worked a treat.

The latter is for when they know the rules but choose to try it on through excitement, just reminds them that if they don't behave we will be going nowhere fast.

Try teaching her to be good on lead in the back garden and then when she is good just stroll out of your garden gate and act like nothing is different?

Or the way which was mentioned earlier of when they pull you simply change direction without them seeing, it gives a slight jerk and they soon realise to watch you as your walking as you could change direction anytime!

Treats are good, keep one in your hand and put to the dogs nose and walk along saying 'heel'

All good ways!

> it gives a slight jerk and they soon realise to watch you as your walking as you could change direction anytime!
>

That's not what I suggested(& Mic didn't start it it's a really old fashioned method going back to the 1950s/1960's before Mic was a trainer), the loop in the lead when released means the dog stops pulling because the lead goes slack, which makes the dog think"what the ?"& returns to you, after being surprised when the elad goes slack

To Barbara LOLOL all the DBs are repeats at the moment so I'm not watching them ;-)

Oh I ahve only ever caught them occasionaly.  Thsi oen was with Buddy the Beagle Cross the two Chi's one of whcih was a sod, and the Springer.  http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b009s76s  I can't for soem reason play it as it thiniks I am not in UK????  I am with virgin under Blueyonder, so don't know what gives with the BBC video's.

When I was training my dog, (a 7 month old Bullmastiff) She pulled quite a lot, I bought an RAC Dog harness, used for cars and walks.
When she pulled me, I'd stop the walk and take her straight home again.
Doin this 5 times a day, she soon learned that if she pulled The walk would end.
It took a week for me to get her to stop pulling. She still does pull some times, When she does, I stand still and tell her to sit. (so I'm stopping the walk while we are still out)
It seems to be working so far, as I have her walk beside me to small goals e.g. The end of the road, or a certain parked car. When I get to where I want to with out her pulling I give her a treat.

Hope you get her sorted :D

Thanks everyone.  The trainer at my puppy classes told us to do the back and forth method, so that the lead goes slack and the dog is then behind you.  I have been trying this and it seems to be helping.  My neighbours must think I have gone mad!  He advised not to use a half check at the moment, as she is small.  I have had real trouble finding a decent width collar for a small pup.  All the small ones are really narrow and still a little bit too big for her, so they really cut into her neck.  If anybody can recommend somewhere that I can get an adjustable small collar that's something like 3/4" wide or even an inch wide, then I would be really grateful.  I did find one in pets at home, however it's a fashion one (thankfully is plain).  I would still like to find a good webbing one.  There is a lady at out class who has a jack russell and had a nice wide collar, but she couldn't remember where she bought it from.

Have a word with the people who run this site they will make just about any type of collar you want if they don't already have them in stock, all the proceeds go to animal rescues & they are not very expensive either

Thanks.  Will contact them and see what they have.

Sarah

make a loop with the lead & when she starts to pull release turn the opposite way & release the loop the loop

This sounds interesting and I'd like to try it.  But I'm confused.  Not an unusual state for me, go on, you can think it.  Anyway, we have a loop, we release it when pup starts to pull.  Turn the other way.  Then do we release it again?  Are there two loops?  Doesn't the pup still hit the end of the leash?  I wish we could insert videos of some of these things.

LOLOL

What you do is form a largish  loop with the lead & as soon as the puppy/dog starts pulling you turn & release the loop at the same time, this means that the dog is pulling against nothing(ie no resistance) It is this that stops the pulling eventually. Hope that explains it better

is that the same kind of way that guy on Dog Borstal does it (the scary military one??)..  I tell you I've never watched so many dog training programmes on cable lol

You mean Mic Martin He's not scary just very much what you see is what you get LOLOL

It's a very old technique been around at least since the 1960's

Get a harness instead of just a collar - when a dog pulls on the lead a collar can damage the trachea - a harness also gives you more control

A harness does not gve you more control over the dog, it doesn't"cure"pulling, it can in some cases give the dog/puppy more to pull into & it you do chose a harness your dog should be wearing a collar(to comply with the law-all dogs have to wear collars & tags in public places-this includes your car)& a second lead to give you control over the dogs head.

Better to train that to spend money on harnesses that do not"cure"your problem.

Didn't say a harness cures pulling but it at least doesn't damage the trachea plus a dog tag can be attached to the harness.  Plus... We are all entitled to our own opinion thank you very much.

The loop in the lead way (about 2 minutes in) - the dog is still getting somewhat of a jerk, to begin with at least.

Think harnesses are good aswell. Can be used alongside a collar.
think Mic martins lovely. Got a great way about him. If i went on Dog Borstal (of course i never would, my dogs perfect :-) )hehe then i would want mic rather than any of the others.

>plus a dog tag can be attached to the harness

No it cannot, I've checked this with Dog Wardens & the 1871 Act clearly states a collar & tag

> the dog is still getting somewhat of a jerk, to begin with at least.

Shouldn't get any jerking if you do both together(ie turn & drop the loop)

I too have a cocker and she is 10 months. she pulled and pulled from day one, I thought I was addressing it but in the end was getting nowhere except sore as she got stronger. After several dog trainers advice (you have to find the technique and person that works for your dog), I am learning that until she walks to heel she pretty much won't do anything else either! (like recall, also very important and frustrating). I am using one of those nylon choke leads like the smiley mexican dog whisperer uses (whose name escapes me)... it chokes her a bit, that's true, but she hated other types I used, and I have been taught if she pulls ahead to pull her round and make her face you as you correct her back into position by your heel, sometimes walking a few paces backward to emphasis that she is to come back to you. Can take a long time to get anywhere! It seems to work. She does insist on creeping ahead, which I constantly correct, boy is she persistant. Looking back over the last 4 weeks we've come a long way and my shoulder is no longer being yanked out of my socket. Yes,  also that changing direction thing in a field, is good practice. try also sitting down at heel a lot, to command. By my side she can't pull then. Good rest for sore muscles as well. But most important of all is to get it right at home first, even in a small garden or around a flat you can teach her to walk to heel on a lead. Dribbling in the car is an anxiety thing, my dog does that too and it can look alarming, if she's getting out the front door and happily into the car I wouldn't worry too much. Dogs, as I understand, don't have much else but 'on' or 'off' for their drooling, so a little anxiety can produce a waterfall of drool.  ah yes Cesar, I remember now.

Hi panpan and welcome to CD

You've replied to a post that is over a year old and I don't think the original poster is around any more.

If you are interested in Cesar Millan there is a current thread about him and his methods here

She does insist on creeping ahead, which I constantly correct, boy is she persistant.

Which means that she isn't learning anything at all, despite the pain -and pain it is. Punishing bad behaviour isn't half as effective as rewarding good. Buy a good headcollar, they do the trick far easier and without any pain whatsoever. I have dogs strong enough to pull over an adult man and I can walk two with headcollars on, slack leads, no problem -without them each can pull me several feet. All mine have grown out of the pulling phase by about 18 months of age when we have used headcollars and have been able to switch to normal plain collars.

Can I ask which type of headcollar you use? I have been looking at different types for my GSD but can't decide..... :-)

From expereince at our dog club of the two that are most easily commercially available the GSD's are much better with the Gentle Leader as compared with the Halti.

My own dogs do very well with the simple headcollars made by Dajan on sale at some of the championship shows, and best of all they are under £4 each.

I have started to use a harness for my Golden. This was only because she had a little sore spot on her neck, and the collar rubbed it so it wasn't healing properly. My dog pulles on the lead sometimes (i.e. when seeing another dog in the distance, a rabbit running away in front of us etc), not always. I found the harness very useful - she walks very well with it and it definately gives more control. Now I can also let my kids hold the lead without having to worry that they will be pulled over if she sees a dog/rabbit or so. But I have been told that harnesses are not too good for a dog that constantly pulls, as it will strengthen their chest muscles and they have even more strength pulling...

My cocker is 2 years and 6 months and he was a horror on a lead, harness, half chock collar everything. The only thing that worked for me was when he pulled I stood still. Walks could take a long time to get nowhere, but, at 30 months he is absolutely a pleasure. I walk a BC and CS every lunch hour for a pee/pooh break and they have to behave as I pick up after them, and they are both on a slack lead's by my side.
The BC walks to "close" and CS to "wait". (Trust OH and I to use different commands) when they are allowed to "go" its "Ok!" and they are gone!!!
I think with a CS it is patience!!

Yes I use Gentle Leader as well.

As far as harnesses go, yes they certainly encourage pulling. My elderly cavalier has a large tumour on his neck (cannot be removed) so he can no longer wear a collar hence he uses a harness for walks. It's amazing how much stronger it makes him all of a sudden! Plus all control is gone, you cannot communicate with the lead at all. As he is also deaf and blind that makes it rather difficult at times but we cope and he's still happy. :)

I would use a dogmatic, like a horses headcollar, certainly stops them pulling, they come in various sizes, and materials.

dogmatic gets my vote as well.

Going back to the dogmatic here too, the leather one. I had a very pully dog, especially when he saw a rabbit, a few broken fingers later and a dogmatic, i don't have a dog which pulls on it. Also he is much better to walk off one now that he has got used to walking by my side so much..
My pup is only 6 1/2mnths old and to be honest all the ones i have tried, including the dogmatic ride up into his eyes, so waiting for him to grow, while he is being trained to wear one.. Come on skull grow!!!

Dogmatic was the only one which did not ride up into my GSD eyes. You must have the wrong size. I tried all the rest and wasted lots of money but found the leather Dogmatic super. Just a word of warning, when you recieve it the leather is a bit stiff, so for the comfort of your dog, use some tack softener or leather conditioner on it before use. I was advised to apply the softener and place in a sealed plastic bag overnight. Next day polish the stuff off and use. I purchased mine a few years ago and you had to measure your dogs snout and advise Dogmatic and they more or less made it to measure. I don't know wether they still offer this superb service and vital if you have a dog with unusual measurements. Many people used to think that it was a muzzle so was no bad thing as they gave us a wide berth and as my gsd was dog agressive we were glad of this.