Hi, when my 14 week old puppy is naughty/nipping/barking I ignore and walk away from him, but this doesn't seem to stop him. He just goes to his crate and takes out his cuddly toy and start to play with him or he finds something else to do (and he gets my attention again) i.e chew carpet, jump on sofa, chew curtains etc.............. Any advise please, what am I doing wrong? My hair is turning greyer by the minute!!! :)

I'm a bit confused - you say when you ignore him he goes to his crate and plays with his toy - surely this means he's stopped doing the stuff you don't want him to? Or is it because he's finding other things to do that are disruptive that you have a problem? Can you try steering him towards the things you *do* want him to do, rather than leave him to his own devices?

Pu him in a room where there are no distractions ie- his crate, toys etc, but dont make a fuss of atakin him into this room. Make sure he knows you are mad at him by using yuor body posture. He must have stopped doin gthe thing you didn't want him to do, so slowly go into the room, but don't hug and praize him, just carry on as you would do. Dont let him think he has won.

Hi Digger, sorry for confusion. Yes, he has stopped what he is doing but he doesn't seem to realise that I am angry with him and that what he was doing was wrong. After playing with his cuddly toy for a minute, he goes back to doing what he shouldn't be doing (chewing/nipping/barking).

Dogs don't really understand anger! They don't do right or wrong either. just safe/dangerous. You can manage his environment so that he cannot chew, nip, destroy you can also manage his behaviour by giving him constructive outlets for his energy and demonstrating when you are happy with him which is more beneficial to you both.

Thanks Tohme, by now you will have guessed this is my first puppy and I want to try and get it right. My major problem is chewing of cables, I have had Barney now for 5 weeks and as of yet have not been able to get any ironing done!!! Everytime the iron comes out he thinks it is a game, playing with the cable, I know I shouldn't shout at him, shouldn't put him in his crate but what else can I do? As I said ignoring him does not work, and if I give him one of his toys he is happy for a couple of minutes but whatever I am doing is much more interesting. Should I shut him in another room on his own?

Why not treat hime when he is near the calbe fo rexample, but not biting/chewing it. as soon as he c hews, say no, and stop treating/stroking etc. Praise when good. It is a much better way of going about things.

When my dogs were pups, all housework could only be done when they were having their nap, or someone else was there to distract them! It's a great excuse to leave the boring stuff, and have fun bonding with and training the pup!
:)

:D :D :D Too right!

Absloutely! My already low domestic standards have sunk to even greater depths since I got Sparky, though I must admit the kitchen has never been cleaner as I seem to spend my life cleaning the floor (muddy prints) and worksurfaces (still working on them being out of bounds). :D

or depending on how you use the crate, how about waiting till you've just had a good play iwth the pup & he's likely to be tiring anyway then putting him in his crate (& shutting it) for time out - then doing your ironing in the same room while he's occupied like this? (Then you don't even get into him confronting him with the cable.)

Know how you feel with the pup - we got our first @ 3 months ago. She's so rewarding but i do remember finding the first month/6 weeks or so a lot more full-on than i'd anticipated (despite all the reading!) - trust me it only gets easier and more rewarding as they setlle in more and more to your rules and routines and its just the most rewarding thing ever when you see them learn.

Also, in general with a lt of potential dangers round the house, we've found that taking a prevention rather than cure (ie putting things out of her reach!) method works best. Ruby's teething so badly at the moment (i found 3 teeth yesterday in one day alnoe! can you imagine how sore her mouth is?) she jst wants to chew everything. I'm sure once she grows up a bit she'll calm down with this and stick to her proper chews.

Oh, the other thing that's proved really helpful is rotating her toys & chews. Persevere with it - i find if i give ruby a chew she's not seen for 4 or 5 days but has chewed and had a good ime with before she can be busy for hours! (well at least a good 15 mins anyway......)

Hi Katie1977, thanks for your message. I was beginning to think I had got it all wrong, I had read all the books, had a year to prepare for this puppy and thought I was ready, jeez, what a shock to the system. But it is getting much easier every day, he is learning to play more by himself and he doesn't have to follow me everywhere now (poor Barney, I've lost count of the times I've stepped on him :( ). Anyway, I've decided the housework will still be there in a couple of months. 15 mins chewing on a toy/chew is good going, we only manage 5 mins before getting bored :)

I would suggest that you only let him have his toys when YOU allow him to. Do not ever play tug of war as this is power play, when you want to stop playing give him a treat so that he drops his toys and then remove them from him and put them up high so he cannot demand your attention. Give him a toy on your terms only. Puppies will use play to establish their postion in the "pack" the pack being your family. Also do not let him go through doors before you always say "back" and make sure you go through first. When you get up in the morning ignore him for 5 mins so that you are top dog at all times. Believe me it works I had a puppy who did the same sort of things and now she is totally laid back and acknowledges me as the leader.

I have this image of a dog who bows infront of you and declares 'we are not worthy!'.......... Personally my dogs are my friends, we are a team - I just make the decisions, I don't know what dogs make of a human who insists on going through doorways first, as it's certainly not something that overly matters to a good wolfpack leader...

Sometimes it's just more convenient for the dog to go first while you hold the door open, then lock it behind you. JMHO :)

Much of "puppyhood" is difficult as well as fun, but we have to decide on managing a lot of things - for example, yes, do housework etc when the pup is asleep or in the crate. Dont expect to be able to do it whilst he/she is awake and full of exploring excitement in this great new world :D

Do grab a copy of "The perfect Puppy"by Gwen Bailey, it is invaluable.

The bitey/grabby/ chewy etc phase doesn't last forever, but you will also need to train the pup to let you be and this will come in time. 14 weeks is still very young and yes, my BSD at 14 weeks was a bit of a horror LOL but is now an angel ;) Well, most of the time.

Attention seeking is normal for a bright pup :) Try structuring play time and get involved, do some training too (for example teach Sit before you throw a ball) and then out with pup for a wee, then into the crate with a chew for 20 minutes.....that sort of thing.

Are you going to pup classes? They may be of some help.

Lindsay

I did not suggest that the dog should bow down in front of you..the dog is much happier if it fits nicely into the pack, it makes for a relaxed dog. My dogs are my best friends and go everywhere with me, they are cuddled talked to and have lol. I have had several rescue dogs and just observing a few basic pack rules makes for happy contented dogs

I know you didn't suggest that - but it's the picture I always get when folk start talking about 'dominance' and 'pack leader' - the pack process involves so much more than simply setting rules (which is never a bad thing whatever species you are dealing with - seems to work best with kids and puppies ;)) but it's very easy to confuse the two and think you are being a 'pack leader' when you are simply being consistent - therefore the dog knows what is expected of them - the dog thinks 'so what if they have this whacky rule about going through doorways, that's what they want and it's no skin off my nose.....' - but it has NOTHING to do with 'pack leadership' which is a far more complex process of body language, hormones most of which we are incapable of reporducing as we are another species.

With my pups, whenever they chewed on me, and they'd hurt, I'd yell OWWW. The shock would stop them instantly, then I'd give them one of their own toys and praise them like mad when they did indeed chew on the toy.
When I've caught them chewing something they shouldn't (like my very expensive designer shoe :( :( :( ) I'd take it off them and say a firm NO, and them give them their own toy again....and again praise like crazy.
Now if ever Henry, who's 5 months, chews on me in his excitement, I say NO quite firmly and he stops instantly. :)
I've found with my dogs it's a case of giving them something they ARE allowed to chew, then reward with extreme praise.

People say ignore but you know what... how is the dog suposed to know what hes done isent right. im always confused why we should ignore.without anything else, a simple sharp low tone no will be effective and if he carrys on take him by the colla to another place let go and say no. that should get his attention. its always worked for me;)

ive gotta say - i agree with jill! im not a great training person - Kara is usually left to do what she wants, usually sleep on the sofa next to me (like now lol) but i always observe the 5 minute rule and she always leaves the house after me also little things like i eat first and a little of what i have is left for her - all pack type behaviours.

Not really any help i know but thought id stick my nose in lol.

Im not a puppy person - always tried to take on older dogs but i would remove what you dont want him playing with - ok your curtains etc will look really stupid rolled up and stuffed out of puppy reach but if he cant reach then he cant eat them and leave him play with what he is allowed.

if everytime he goes for something hes not allowed to play with its taken away he will eventually learn what is what.

Andy :)

thank you andy for agreeing with me. I too have mostly taken older dogs and the five min rule etc definately works all my rescue dogs are loved and very happy

Ive always trained from puppys and its best to start young im glad the poster is asking for advice sooner then later. i still think you need a verbal word though. i dont agree with smacking .but often if you can stop the pup from doing what its doing it will listen to you and stop.

I wondered that too Lovelylady.....about the ignoring. I did try it, ages ago, after my mums recommendation,but I never got anywhere. DOn't think the dogs understood that as much as an obvious command like "NO".
When mum ignored her dogs, and turned her back on them, but they'd just come round to her front and try again to bite. The more she ignored them, the more excited they would get in trying to get at her.
I prefer my method...a firm no, or a louder "OW", depending on the situation. And it has always worked :)

There is 'ignoring' and there is IGNORING - ignoring doesn't mean turn away each time the pup bites, as this give the pup control over what you are doing - IGNORING means not letting the pup/dog influence you in any way, not looking at it even, and this does mean something to dogs in my experience....

It just goes to show, we all have our own ways of getting sucessful results :)

My mother was told from her trainer to turn away from the pup when it bit....
Different strokes for different folks and all that..... :)

our pup used to nip for attention and to try to get you to play with her when she was v little, so ignoring her when she did it worked a treat. she's a little dog (cavalier) so its probably a lot easier and more effective than wit hsome other breeds. anyway - if she nipped at me to get attention/play i jsut used to either completely ignore her & carry on wit hwhat i was doing or if i was sat down to play with her anyway then i would stand up, cross my arms, look well peeved and stick my nose in the air for 30 secs so - particularly important i found to avoid eye contact.

i think the ignoring thing works well for certain dogs and certain behaviours, depending on what motivates them and how you do it.

Just a thought.

It's best IMHO to ignore judiciously (for example the worst thing youcan do for a clever pup is to pay it attention if it is seeking that very thing - we are assuming a happy healthy well loved pup here.) For some pups, even negative attention (ie a NO, or a telling off) is better than no attention at all.

This is what is so hard to get across - you don't just ignore it if it is chewing the carpet - of course not. You would redirect the pup to show it what it can chew, and also treat the carpet with a horrible tasting spray, and also limit the pup's access to that carpet :)

But if a dog is barking it#s head off, and the owner is going "no Bertie,, bad Bertie, quiet, i said quiet" and so on, the dog is getting lots of attenti0n but is not being stopped or redirected. If the dog is barking to get attention, then ignoring it may very well stop it, unless the dog has got to the stage of finding the barking itself actually self rewarding which some of them def. do :D

Just my 2 cents worth ;)

Lindsay

Hi Lindsay, thanks. You've got it exactly, he is a very very bright wee pup and very quick to learn, he is with me all day and will do anything to get my attention - ANY ATTENTION, EVEN NEGATIVE ATTENTION (he knows when his dad comes home he gets loads of attention he doesn't have to try, he is angel when dad comes in :)). I do try and redirect energy but he seems to get bored very quickly and goes back to what he was doing in the hope of getting attention al be it negative, thanks, it is all starting to make sense now. :)

:) Glad to help - it is very difficult to get stuff across via email though ;)

Try to always be calm and confident, and either ignore or redirect or move pup if necessary....it can be very hard with a clever pup so try not to be toohard on yourself! People do panic, i did once or twice a few years ago when i had my pup :D but honestly, with kind consistent training it does get better :)

Maybe teach him to be on his own sometimes - to deal with this frustration - make it a nice area where he can chew a marrow bone or something very rewarding, where the wallpaper etc tastes horrid and he can be "safe" for 20 minutes or so. Childgates are invaluable as he can see you and you can see him but he is not totally shut away to do mischief. Also, try to only go to him when you choose, not when he is demanding that you be there.

Lindsay
X

Hi Lindsay, just a quick message to thank you for your advice.  Two weeks on from this post and the change in Barney (and me) is unbelieveable, he was seeking attention - any kind on attention.  When he jumped on the sofa, I didn't tell him off or make a fuss I just jumped off the sofa and played with his toys on the floor, and very quickly he has come to realise that the sofa if a pretty boring place and he is better off on the floor, he gets his toys on the floor AND attention. 
Jax :) and Barney:)

HI Jax

I'm so pleased that things are now easier for you and Barney :). Often with internet advice, the thing is trying to explain things well enough - i find that frustrating i admit, but it is worth all the "angst" when it helps other dog owners (also helps when you have been through similar yourself! :D)

Have fun with him

Lindsay
X

This is all so familiar to me. My pup is 13 weeks old and demands attention virtually all his waking hours, although he does spend time on his own each morning as I go out to work early and my daughter is not an early riser. He is perfectly happy during this time, but bites, nips and chews all the time we are with him even during play and whilst we redirect him, he is still reaching for the nearest piece of flesh or clothing if nothing is exposed. I look like I am self-harming as my arms and hands are covered in scars and scabs where he has broken the skin. I have tried turning away, yelping, a deep 'NO', putting him in his crate, putting him in another room - all to no avail. I'm sure that he is just testing boundaries, but it's such hard work that I just sat and cried tonight - that stopped him!!!! What is even more frustrating is his flat refusal to go for a proper walk. He lies down before I get to the gate with him and again in the street, yet he will whizz around the back garden at a great rate of knots. I have driven him to the park, (he likes the car) but once people have stopped to make a fuss and moved away, all he wants to do is get back in the car and go home. I've tried treats, toys, encouragement and everything positive I can think of. He hates cars going past him when we are out and cowers on the floor, but people are a magnet. We have been to puppy training classes for the past couple of weeks, but all he wants to do is lie down or go home. He is a big puppy, so picking him up is fast becoming too much for me, so I have to wait until I can finally persuade him to get up and move. If he could get rid of some energy walking, he may be less 'bitey' at home I'd guess. His latest though is to jump onto the sofa next to me to get a better position to bite and I send him 'OFF' time after time, but as soon as his paws hit the floor, he is straight back up and the whole cycle starts again. He eats the carpet, wall, bookcase, coffee table and dining chair covers and steals the washing. I suppose the compensation is that he is a happy, healthy, bouncy puppy going through a puppy stage. Tonight I just managed to stop him totally swallowing a thin sock which was already half way down his throat! Sorry this is long, but you see you are not alone. I keep going because I know that one day he will be a beautiful dog who makes me proud.

hi

the ignoring thing has never worked for me a firm no and putting them out of the  room has worked how can you ignore a puppy when its chewing on your hand and won't stop it, if it gets no response its gonna carry on with it ,don't ignore it let em know its wrong same way as you let em know whats right.but no smacking please that is wrong!

There are very very few dogs around who won't get the 'ignore' message IF it's carried out consistantly, it's non confrontational (ie - safe for all concerned) - it may take a while, but is far and away the best way of teaching a dog that you don't want it to do *that* - and can be done safely by ALL the family. When a puppy is chewing your hand, simply remove the hand from the puppies mouth first (I would have thought that was obvious!) the puppy then learns that chewing is non rewarding as it brings on the 'ignore' which is the last thing puppies want - they like to be involved with their humans. Dog's don't have a concept of 'right' and 'wrong' so you can't teach them what is 'right' and 'wrong' - all they learn is 'Mum doesn't like this, she can be unpredictable and agressive sometimes - better be careful what I do' which can inhibit learning in the future :(

yes obviously you take your hand out of the puppy's mouth!(no need for step by step instructions sometimes theres no need to state the obvious but i suppose it was an opportunity for you to sound clever) but they will keep going back for more unless you remove them from the situation letting them know your not happy and putting them out away from the family each time it happens ,ignoring bad behaviour is not a solution to a family with a determined boisterous puppy ,so if it was nipping a visitor to your home and running riot you would just all ignore it would you and let it carry on creating havoc around you ,dogs are animals and bad behaviour in a pack would not be tolerated by the alpha dog! isolating the puppy for at least 10 mins will have  far more impact than just sticking your nose in the air and ignoring it.

Jacki, i just read your postings, and have to agree, there really is no need to state the obvious, step by step - after all, we all have our own methods of training our dogs, and getting results. 
I can't stand it on here, when someone's advise conflicts with another persons....and so instead of agreeing to differing of opinions, people get heated and try to tell you that you are wrong for your opinions/views/ways of handling etc.
Dogmatic, or what???   no pun intended ;) 

thankyou for that, your right different methods work with different dogs ,trouble is on here some people obviously get a lot of their info from books etc and take it as gospel ,i only comment on the posts where i have experienced the same problems so when i post the info it is from my own personal experiences and not books! and then someone comes on trying to tell me i am completely wrong and starts reeling off something they have read in a book, i would rather have advice from someone who has gone through the same tunnel and come out the other end.

Yip, I'm the same Jacki - I will only offer advise or partake in a discussion if I have experience of it.

A previous post discussed that an owner doesn't just ignore the pup - you ignore "appropriately". You also redirect and so on :) ;)

Jackie, you mention that a family with a very boisterous and determined puppy can't just let it run riot - well, no, and why should they? I agree. But ignoring may be appropriate at times with that pup, as may redirecting onto a toy - which is NOT a reward for nipping. It is a redirect. My pup was exactly how you describe - determined, boisterous, and could certianly create loads of havoc when she was over excited and tired - bit like a tired toddler :D

I don't subscribe to the pack theory as such because i personally agree with the recent theories/findings/discussions on canine behaviour (and also because for decades i have purposely fed my dogs first, allowed them on the furniture etc ) but i do feel the human has to be a calm and confident leader.

After the Ouch stoped working (as my dog felt i was becoming a fun squeaky toy - most dogs will respond to that though) i popped her out each and every time she nipped and it worked. I also redirected her onto her toys and could visibly see her making the correct choice to grab her toy rather than me or anyone else!

I dont' think digger is trying to sound clever :( She does teach lots of pups and owners so i am sure is saying what she knows works, and feels passionately about that, as we all feel passionate about our differing training beliefs :)

best wishes
Lindsay

I liked your diplomatic reply Lindsay  :)  :)  :)

:)

Email and internet discussion is hard isn't it - i expect it would be easier if we were all sitting round drinking coffee and eating cake ;) together :)

Lindsay

Yip, you are so right there ....or perhaps we could exchange the coffee for a vodka and coke, and the cake for, errmm, well another vodka and coke?? ;) :D