Can anyone help, I am having problems getting my springer to walk on a lead without pulling, she is very good off lead but hates being restricted and she pulls like mad. It is so bad its hurting my arm.
I have tried all the collars like Halti etc but nothing works, when I go back to basics in the garden she is fine but as soon as we go out the gate she is off, pulling like mad. HELP;
Springer Owner.

All the training aids in the world won't teach your dog to walk on a loose lead if nobody is telling her what is good........ All they do is discourage the dog from pulling when the dog is wearing them - some learn if they wear them for long enough that wearing a headcollar means it's less uncomfortable if they don't pull - but this isn't really training them - which is what you've got to do......
There are a variety of methods to acheive this -
1) The 'stop/start' - each time your dog pulls, you stop until the lead goes slack - the minute the lead is slack, say 'heel' and start to walk again - the timing of the 'heel' instruction is critical - so many people yell 'heel' when the dog is at the furthest extent of the lead - which eventually means that a tight lead is what you want when you say 'heel'....
2) the ' you pull we don't even get out of the garden' method - as it says - a step on from the 'stop/start' the minute the dog pulls you turn around and take the dog back indoors.....
3)Clicker training - get yourself a book on 'clicker training' (some clickers come with a little booklet which is useful) this is the method dolphin trainers and an increasing number of zoo's use to teach animals the basic moves which make their day to day care so much easier and stress free.....
4)Walk alongside a wall - manouver the dog so he is between you and the wall, making him stay behind you, when he is behind you say 'heel' and praise him, give him a small treat if you like..
5) Target training - particularly useful for small dogs or owners who aren't so flexible (llike me <G>) - the dog is trained (using techniques akin to clicker) to touch his nose on the end of a stick - the stick can then be used on the walk to 'place' the dog in the correct position........
To be quite honest - there are probably as many techniques as there are dog trainers and dogs. The key is to find one that suits you, and stick with it - if it's going well at home, work on it at home until it is absolutley fool proof before asking the dog for it outside (this is where the training aids come in handy - to makes sure the dog gets his recreation and excercise)

HTH
Fran

Everytime my dog did this I just turned around and walked in the opposite direction,now she still gets to length (gently) of the extending lead but the minute she gets to it she will return to me.So no more aching arms and if I put my lead hand behind my back she will heel.
Hope this helps
Ann

YOu will need an awful lot of patience, and personally I would set aside times for actually training the loose lead walk, and times for when you have less available time and have to get from A to B, in which case I recommend a harness such as the Kumfi Stop/Pull.

I use one command for just loose lead - so the dog may be in front or behind, but the lead is not tight; and another - Close - for the competition type of heelwork.

Lindsay