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Topic Dog Boards / Behaviour / Siberian Husky problems
- By LadyG [gb] Date 26.12.02 16:28 UTC
Hello all, Merry Christmas!

I was cooped up with the family all day yesterday. Unfortunately, my sister decided to bring Dante, her husky with her. He's a 2 year old uncut male, she's had him for six months. He's the worst example of the breed I've ever seen (but I've not seen many) being skinny and has problems with his hips. Dante was put in the paddock initially, as he repeatedly tries to dominate all the other dogs by draping his head over their necks then tries to mate them all. He'll keep up this behaviour up for hours and has many scars on him as a result from annoyed dogs, as he just doesn't learn. He's actually a very nervous dog so this 'dominating' behaviour baffles me. When left on his own, he howls and barks non stop, digs furiously to escape and destroys anything within reach by shredding it. He destroyed the fence and escaped twice so he was allowed into the porch where it was warmer, given his dinner and his bed which he ignored, and started the whole (non stop) barking, howling, jumping at the doors and scrabbling thing all over again. He destroyed the porch . After four hours, I sent my sister away with some stern words about not wanting to see her again until she put some effort into training him to make him socially acceptable. (Aren't I mean?! And on Chistmas day too!)

Is this one of those 'seperation anxiety' cases I so often hear about? Any suggestions I can pass on to my sister to help her do her training? She thinks another dog will do the trick, (God forbid) to keep him company and take the attention away from her as the owner - and Dante did use to live with other dogs. However, I've seen him display this behaviour when there are no other dogs present and my sister shuts him away when he gets too much. I'd like to see her sort this problem out first before adding another dogs problems into the equation.

All ideas welcome.

Thanks all

Lady G
- By theemx [gb] Date 27.12.02 00:33 UTC
Hi,
I have to say, i dont have any experience with Sibes, but, i do have experience of getting another dog to keep the first one company!
Dont do it! all that will happen is that dog 2 will pick up the habits of dog 1.
IMHO, i would, see a behaviourist, get dog slowly used to being alone. Give dog a job to do, ie train him, with wichever kind methods are preffered, and work, ie clicker training etc.
Get dog neutered. (i know, it is not the be all and end all of solving a male dogs problems) if he is, as you say, not a good example of the breed, then there is no need for him to be intact.
But, if you think this would help, try the injection first (Tardec? sp?), if that doesnt make a difference, then dont bother neutering as a solution to the prob.
He is after all, a dog bred to work, and without it, he is gonna be a right royal pain in the ass, so give him a job to do!
Then, and only then, when the dog is a more acceptable companion, and the owner understands what makes the dog tick, should you get it a companion.

HTH, Emma
- By nikkimorgan [au] Date 27.12.02 01:24 UTC
Hi,
Has your sister had any previous experience with very dominant dogs? Huskies are very pack orientated and are an extremly dominat breed, there are exceptions with certain individuals but most that i have come across are dominant. I will dig up some alpha tips and post them later. Your sister MUST establish herself as pack leader, it sounds like her dog has taken over the role as alpha (although alphas shouldnt be so pushy)
I dont think its seperation anxiety, he sounds like he needs some thorough training, keep in mind sibes have short attention spans, bore easily, and if dont get the very large amounts of exercise they need they WILL become destructive and try desperatly to escape. Get your sis to give him some Kongs to chew on and get treats out of, build him a sandbox/pit so he can dig to his hearts content, make her take him for hour long jogs/offleash play in an enclosed area 2x a day at least, burn his energy up! be creative! they are exceptionally smart dogs! Also get her to get him to the vets, he needs his health checked to clear him of any problems that may cause him to be excesivly hyper. The obedience training Dante desperatly needs, get your sis to get him into some classes imediatly and keep up the training at home. Going back to the alpha thing, if not already alpha he may be trying to gain that position unsuccessfully with other dogs. Get him desexed, that will quiet him down alot. When Dante is Beta he will be alot more happier in his role in the pack and shouldnt be constantly challanging everyone he meets, Oh also keep in mind he is in his terrible 2s, he will challange everyone and everything, you must get your sister to be in control and be consistant with training and punishment at this time. There is more id like to tell you but for the life of me cant remember (been sooo busy last few days :) ) i'll get back to you when i remember :0 hope this helps somewhat :)
- By nikkimorgan [au] Date 27.12.02 06:49 UTC
OK i found the Alpha tips courtesy of my friend Doris who has Malamutes:

ALPHA TRAINING

You can start with one or two and work your way up as they become routine. The main thing is consistency! If you make a rule, you have to enforce it every time. Alpha training works so beautifully with young pups. They never get the control and thus don't fight it.

1. Alpha always eats first. Either change the dog's feeding time or grab a little bite of something before feeding your dog.(We make added advantages for the whole family by letting the dog have the last bite of whatever we are eating. He has to wait patiently. This way even my kids get Alpha! We also feed our cat first.)
2. Alphas always go through doorways first. This includes all doorways INSIDE the house. Either call the dog back to you or take her back and make her wait.
3. NO FREE LUNCH This means the dog has to do something for everything it gets. Most people have the dog sit, but you can also use down or come. This should include meals, treats, walks, pets, and anytime the dog wants out.
4. Alphas always have the highest position. This means don't let the dog on the furniture, especially the bed. While training, don't lay on the floor and DON"T ever let the dog stand over or on you. Don't let the dog put it's paws on your lap and stand with it's head higher.
5. Alphas always have clear passage. This means you teach the dog to move out of your way instead of walking around. Depending on temperament, you can walk up about a foot from the dog and say move and then keep walking. The dog should get out of the way. If this doesn't work at first, try luring with a treat or toy until she learns the command.
6. Alphas make the rules. This is probably the hardest! You have to show the dog that you decide when to play or pet her. Our rule was for every 3 times Kodiak asked to play or be petted, the 4th time we said no. You need to also stop a game before she is ready every few times. Don't wait for the dog to walk off and leave you
7 No rough play-At least until the dog is 12 to 18 mos and KNOWS it's place in the pack, you should avoid tug of war and wrestling. In dog terms (especially for young dogs), this is a way to test the other members of the pack to see who is vulnerable. In trying to let the dog have fun, we end up sending the wrong message with these games.
8 Alphas decide where and when to go. Use the tether(umbilical) system for bonding and Alpha training. When you are home, put a 6 ft leash on the dog and hook it to you. I used a leather belt and put the loop of the leash through it and buckled it around my waist even if I didn't have belt loops. To begin with, tell the dog when you are going to move. This teaches the dog to pay attention to you, that you are in control, and to wait patiently by your side. It helps a lot to talk to them and BE HAPPY! Make her feel she is helping by coming along. This worked great with Kodiak and now I can tie him to me anytime my hands are full and he follows right along.
9 Insist the dog obey first time, every time! This is probably one of the most important for independent breeds. Do not repeat yourself! Do not assume the dog did not hear you(they have excellent hearing for the things they are interested in!). Give a command, wait a few seconds, then put the dog in position or make him do what you said. If a pup is never allowed to ignore you, it will make training SO much easier and faster.

Here are eight great reasons to tether-train your dog:

Better bonding. If your dog is overly independent and doesn't recognize your leadership, an excellent bonding exercise is to tether her next to you every possible minute when you're home. If you have trouble finding an object to tie her to, attach the tether to your belt or ankle. This is known as "umbilical cording."

A feeling of safety. Close tether training gives a fearful dog the security of knowing where she belongs. She'll also adapt more easily to new environments since she'll "know the ropes."

Easier housetraining.. Dogs will avoid eliminating in their immediate surroundings, so tether-training can help you with housebreaking. Take your dog out regularly, and praise her lavishly for going in a sanctioned spot. If she doesn't do her business, return her to the tether and praise her for resting quietly.

A calming effect. Inside your car or at home, tethering will settle a hyperactive dog. If your dog gets especially wild around guests, designate a spot as hers and tether her there when you entertain. Set up a comfy bed there, so she can rest comfortably.

Soothing separation anxiety. If your dog gets upset when you leave or aren't nearby, close tethering is a useful technique. Gradually increase the time you keep her tethered, by just a minute or so each time and never so long that she shows signs of anxiety. Then tether her farther from you, gradually increasing the distance until you're out of her sight. Do this incrementally, so she's always comfortable (otherwise you could make the problem worse). When you need to go out, untie her, but ignore her when you leave and for a few minutes after you arrive. Making a fuss will undo this "independence training."

No more demolition dog. If your dog chews your shoes or digs up your flowers, tethering can limit her ability to destroy your possessions. While she's tethered, give her a Kong filled with goodies or a "chew puzzle" (another kind of chew toy with food inside). If you think separation anxiety might be causing the destructive behavior and close tethering isn't helping, consult a professional behaviorist.

You're the boss. If your dog behaves aggressively, give her a calming "time-out" by tethering her near you for five to 10 minutes. By immediately establishing your leadership, tethering dispels her confusion over her status in the household hierarchy. If necessary, have your dog drag a leash from her collar, so you can control any volatile situation.

A member of society. You can use the tether as part of a socialization program. It's a way to allow your dog to see and be involved in people's activities without being the center of attention. Remember, a dog who can be peacefully tethered possesses a skill that'll prove handy in countless situations over her life.
from-petco.com

Hope this helps
- By LadyG [gb] Date 27.12.02 18:52 UTC
Many thanks for all that - I've printed it off and sent it to my sister. I think the biggest problem is consistency. My sister certainly has none in her life and therefore doesn't pass it on to the dog. She only bought the dog to keep her company. Therefore, she needs him more than he needs her and he probably senses this. They certainly couldn't afford to see a behaviourist and although Dante has been to the vets, I don't think his hips have been looked at properly. I've lost count of the times I've told her to get him checked out even by telling her he's probably in pain, but it falls on deaf ears.

I agree that he should be castrated but Becks thinks he's the bees knees and 'so pretty and well behaved at home' and probably holds out hopes of being able to breed from him one day. Lord save us. Becks does have some understanding of the 'alpha' system as I've passed it onto her from the things I've learnt with my two, so fingers crossed...

Thanks again.

Lady G
- By DOGS [gb] Date 01.01.03 21:37 UTC
Hi there

I am owned by 5 lovely sibes......they all show the classic signs that your sisteris having probs with at the moment.....they all dig....howl..........cry and whinge..........try to mount one another.......play fight which sometimes gets out of hands etc etc

I would NOT advise your sister to breed of this dog as it obviously has a bad temp problem (although mine show the same signs they are not as extereme) Get him neuterd my dog was done a few months ago and yes he is very beautiful and sweet natured 2 blue eyes and all that........... but he was a verydis obedient dog and I must say that the op changed him totally

Good luck
- By kittysilly [gb] Date 02.01.03 23:04 UTC
Hi Lady G,

Dante could have been axtra aggitated on xmas as he was in unfamiliar territory there there would have been plenty going on.

Does your sister know anything of his life before he came to her?

she could contact siberian husky welfare via www.siberianhuskyclub.com they can usually offer pretty good advice especially on second home huskies.
good luck

:-)
kitty
Topic Dog Boards / Behaviour / Siberian Husky problems

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