I can see here many opinions about food and I want to ask you what is best for the GSD breed puppy 4 months. Breeder or vet opinion, sometimes are contradictory.

How do you  avoid under or overfeeding and how do you adapt calories based on the amount of treats provided during the day? Sounds silly but it is important.

Thank you for your help

You will get as many  answers as there are foods .
my choice is always raw but this is worth looking at

https://www.allaboutdogfood.co.uk/

When u get your pup its recommended that u continue for a few weeks at least in the food your breeder has been using .if u wish to change after that info as above and one that suits your dog and pocket. Can be trial and error sometimes
Don't get into calories  just watch how your dog grows and adjust up or down just like u would for you remembering he will be growing too.
Treats u can take a bit from his food and keep back for treats if u want but its better to use really tasty things and just watch his waistline and adjust food if needed.
Just don't make things complicated i

Provided you bought from an experienced, reputable breeder, THAT'S who you should be taking your advice from at least while your puppy is still within the growth period.  Yes, you could go raw, but you'd have to know what you are doing so your puppy receives a properly balanced died, as fits a dog of his breed and age.   And that's where, for me at least, buying a good quality complete puppy food is generally speaking, best.   GSDs can have sensitive digestive systems which is why I favour the breeder over anybody else.   She's most likely to know what suits her bloodline as well as breed.   Good breeders would have given you a diet sheet and a small supply of the appropriate food so you don't need to switch, risking upsetting his digestion.

I go for a food that lists meat, or fish, as the first and so main ingredient.   And for me, a protein level of no more lthan 26% is probably best too so you don't force too much growth (bone development), too fast.    And having found one that works, stick to it - if you keep switching, again you risk digestive problems.

Totally agree with MamaBas

Any tips how to make my house safe for puppy, cables, I want to protect puppy from going up and down stairs as he will be young and not good for hips ?

I was trying to find a proper gate for my stairs  but all I see are very thin and not so great?

Any tips for me please

Standard baby gate are fine although u can buy pet ones that are taller.i never found that necessary
.I have two and they are screwed to the wall as the pressure fits do fall out ime
Cables etc think as u would or did for a child .get down to floor level and see what could be a risk and cover or remove.
Puppy should be supervised a lot of the time so u can start training a no if he / she wants to chew or play with things  or put into a safe area if u cant supervise with lots of safe toys and chew items

Thank you. So pet Gates should be OK as want to let him to stay downstairs

I used baby gates but pet gates if you prefer. I dont like the wooden ones incase they  get chewed. Metal ones always worked for me :) 1 gsd,  , then   a flat coat and a pomxchi and a gsd together. The only problem was small fry pomxchi  who just walked underneath. Gsd pups are too big for that and I only had one who jumped the gate on one single occasion and that was the flat coat. 

Just make sure they screw to the wall for security incase someone pushes them. Human or dog

Just a thought for your safety get the ones without a bottom bar to step over  , they are an awful trip hazard ime

I think this is similar to what i have https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clippasafe-Extendable-No-Trip-Baby-Safety-Stair-Gate-60-107cm-White/163963677822?hash=item262cff2c7e:g:KjIAAOSwY-Nd3pLn

You are aware that as  a pup you wont be be able to leave the dog on its own in the house for long at all . Someone needs to be there and awake to deal with these needs  . Housetraining alone is start is almost a full time job and young pups will need feeding 3 or 4 times a day. Someone needs to be there and awake to deal with these needs So probably not on its own for more than an hour. someone needs to be there and awake to deal with these needs as they arise.
As an older dog and adult maximum for many people  is 4 hours all through its life or you will have a miserable and possibly destructive dog.

I mean this very politely particularly as I don't know your home circumstance and many don't realise this when they get a pup

Overnight pup will need to be either with you upstairs or you downstairs with them, but during the day, standard stairgates will do the job.  I have them here.  One at top and bottom of the stairs because my pup has been loose since about 10 weeks old because he wouldn't tolerate being crated, so I wanted to be sure he wouldn't tumble downstairs accidentally when I was getting dressed to take him out for a toilet break.

For cables here, I had most out of reach and the ones I couldn't I blocked off with plywood.  I haven't need to do that for long - being left loose, not a lot of stuff around the house is a novelty to him, so it doesn't tend to catch his interest like it might a pup who's been crated.  So at 6 months, he's currently sleeping at my feet under my desk, next to a bunch of cables that he couldn't give two hoots about.  I stopped blocking them off about a month ago.

Food wise, do talk to the breeder, but do your own research too.  Many breeders like Royal Canin, and it will give pup what they need nutritionally, but otherwise it's a very expensive bag of corn and really not good quality IMO.

If I was to choose, I'd either go for Wellness Core, which my pup started on, or Seven, which I've just switched him to.  The Wellness is that bit higher quality but stock is an issue right now.  Seven is excellent stuff though and he'll be on that til at least 18 months, hopefully, if not permenently (depends on finances as I am feeding 5 other dogs too).

Keep an eye on ads in local paper or local internet selling sites to get 2nd hand ones, had 3 up at one time and total cost was about same as 1 new one, there always seem to be lots about.

> Just a thought for your safety get the ones without a bottom bar to step over  , they are an awful trip hazard ime<br />

Relevant!   We bought a baby gate that had a bottom bar and Frankie totally refused to walk over it.   I took the gate to one of our local Charity Shops!!

"Many breeders like Royal Canin, and it will give pup what they need nutritionally, but otherwise it's a very expensive bag of corn and really not good quality IMO."
You are not alone in your opinion.   I won't TOUCH Royal Canin after our Frankie came to us at 4 months, having been reared on this.   When I checked the protein level (he was on the Junior version) I was horrified.     That level can only force too much growth, too fast.  His breeder was all about weight and size!!  Despite switching to something of a better level, and more like what we had always reared our puppies on, he was still with the vet a few months later having started to go lame.   He had full front to back x-rays (kerching) which revealed not the Pano I'd expected, but premature closure of the growth plates, radius and ulna and his front had already started to show more turn-out than I'd anticipated even for a Basset!

And then there's the first ingredient listed!!!

Flipping heck!  Do you think that may have contributed to the spinal troubles?

For me it's the behaviour and weight gain: I'm fed up with seeing doolally dogs and fat dogs (and often both).  Most adults I see on that stuff are overweight or obese.

> Do you think that may have contributed to the spinal troubles?<br />

Of course, I can't prove anything re him having Royal Canin before coming to me, but I believe that his structural problems probably were all related to being on that food even if I got him off that asap. after he came to us.  Having said that, we had one develop spondylitis when he was 8, going off his back legs and he certainly had not been on a high protein diet.  He was the only one of our home-breds to do this and actually I was able to give him time before making any decisions about his future.   Eventually he got up and walked again, albeit with a rather roached back but he lived into his 15th year and it wasn't that that got him!!   He just wore out.  Frankie wasn't diagnosed with spondylitis.

Am I allowed to use outdoor wooden kennel for 2 or 3 h if I go for shopping and to keep my dog safe whilst away or is forbidden by law?

How big must be a kennel for a GSD?

I intend to have one to keep my dog safe whilst away for couple of hours and when I m back with me in home.

If I m not allowed by law I will arrange a room plus kitchen properly.

I m only asking in order to be prepared

You can use a kennel and run but think about the safety and security. Right now many dogs being kept in kennels are being stolen. Far safer if you keep your dog inside personally

Also if you have neighbours, a dog kept outside may bark and cause nuisance.

Does make sense you convince me with that. To be honest I was trying to avoid a dispute with wife

Does make sense you convince me with that. To be honest I was trying to avoid a dispute with wife

You do need your wife on board with u about your dog or life won't be easy for u or the dog

Definitely. She is happy as well as we want to make kitchen plus floor safe for dog.

Dan, get a crate - the largest available. That way your house will remain intact and your dog will be safe (and warmer and more comfy inside). Fine to leave the dog for a few hours in the crate if you introduce it properly as a nice and fun place to be.

Are the non shock only beep and vibration good training methods as I cannot see a problem using these if your dog is 1 mile far chasing a rabbit?

Nope .reward based training only and dog who is truly in pursuit is likey to ignore all these things. U still have to get him back to u anyway
Its alot of hard work in training a good recall and making yourself the most fun thing in the field .
If u arnt comfortable having him off lead then rent a secure field there are lots around now . Cost about £ 10 an hour and well worth it . U can have fun and practice at the same time .
I've been using one for years with my nervous reactive dog.  Either Google or fb will give u a list in your area

Dan, a non-shock beep and vibration is no way going to get through to a dog which is 1 mile away chasing a rabbit - they won't even feel it.

Instead, you need to be using food - very tasty food - from puppyhood onwards, to teach the pup to come when called. And keep your pup on a long-line whilst you are practising this and before it is reliable.

Do try to attend a good reward based training class as well, because it's important to set things up right from the start rather than waiting until you have problem behaviours to fix.

Do I need all the time very good quality of food as treats? Is not it overfeeding if I recall dog and he is behaving I have to give positive praise a high value treat.

Can I get rid of treats and replace these in time?

Get a good recall, no way use a collar of those types. If you have a dog even with the best of training which is hunt driven then it doesn't go offlead in places where it can easily chase and be lost over a small furry. One of mine I nearly lost from this, thought a tracker collar was the way to go but alas where I walk there is little to no reception so long line is it unless down the beach or in a secure private field.
As for a beep 1234 has hit the nail on the head, when a dog is in the zone of chasing etc even a shock is unlikely to works as the desire to chase usually overtakes.
I have a friend who used a shock collar on hereof aggressive dog. I was walking with her one day when another one of her dogs went for mine and the aggressive one charged in, she ramped the shock up to its fullest and it still didn't work. She knows my feelings on those things as well and proved that when a dog is in that zone nothing will stop it if the overriding factor is greater.

Think of treats as pay when u are training him .he does well so u pay him in treats.
Yes intime u will reduce those down to only occasionally ones.basically the idea is high level of treats when learning and then phase out to occasional
Mine although now 10 still gets treats  on occasion. I always have some in my pocket to reward her.
As for over feeding just tweak his food down a little .
One of trainers I went to used to say come with about 100 treats of different types in your pocket to use for the training hour .

So agree with u on those things sj . Likley to make matters worse in any case

Thank you very nice explanation and example

Are there any places where I can rent it for a single dog only and avoid being with many dogs around?

https://dogwalkingfields.com/    this is just one site for fields . I you look on fb you may find more. I have 3 or 4 near me and they are getting more common.
As I said earlier about £10 per hour and its private use just for you

I ALWAYS reward for recall. I don’t want it to even enter my dog’s head that coming back to me might not be worth it. And I give multiple rewards in quick succession (a jackpot reward) if he comes back to me away from another dog - he loves dogs so much it’s hard work for him to turn away from them, so I pay him more for that.

I also reinforce “check ins”, where he comes back of his own accord without any cues. I want coming back to me to be the best thing ever.

Remember you can use a portion of your pup’s regular food as rewards as well as tastier things like chicken, cheese, liver, whatever your dog likes most. And if they’re toy motivated, that’s a great reward too. My boy comes racing back super fast to play with a sheepskin tug toy with me.

Thank you guys amazing answers

Don't mind price as long as it is safe for my dog until recall is 10 out of 10.

Many thanks again for advice

Is it good a whistle or it is too much? Seen a nice one with a special soft sound.

Acme whistles are the best if you want to train to one. Work on voice command 1st and you can move to whistle after.

Great I will look it up. So many nice good people on these forum with a lot of knowledge for beginners

I use an Acme gundog whistle, if you to the website you can play each type so you see what they sound like.
Your dog will soon learn your whistle beeps and ignore others. The breeder of the dog I have now started using a whistle when the puppies start to be weaned at round about 3 weeks old. Each time they put food down he would give a few beeps on the whistle as the puppies came forward to eat so that the puppies learned at an early age that whistle sound means go to human, get food. It’s something I kept up for a time when I bought the puppy home so that she learned the beeps I made and responded to me. We also did lots of practice in a quiet field running backwards and forwards to us initially with only a small gap then gradually increasing. Each time she came she was well rewarded with a tasty treat and loads of praise. As far the puppy was concerned it was all a big funny game which she enjoyed bouyed up by our pleasure.
Now she hears the whistle and turns instantly without even thinking about it as it’s so ingrained in to her.
We don’t always reward with treats these days, mainly lots of praise, but if we feel her recall is slipping a bit and not so instant then we go back to the treats and lots of random recalls when we are out.

Dan what is also very refreshing is someone asking questions and taking it all on board, we don't all agree on here and many people post expecting fluffy answers and get huffy when they aren't getting the response they were looking for. Most on here are straight talkers in the written word.

When does the pup come home to you?

I wish I had trained to  the whistle and love jodis idea .latterly I have done some whistle training  and realise now what we have been missing out on .
Agree voice command too

You might laugh at me asking so many silly questions but I m waiting for puppy. Mother is pending an ultrasonography in 3 weeks time. She is from Germany from a reputable breeder with all healthy checks. Father same from another breeder house Lohe. They are 2 black short haired working dogs GSD trained with a good temperament. If you ask me why I have not chosen UK breeder my answer will be that I was put on an imaginary long list and I have not found this dog easily around.

I will be able to take him with me only after 15 weeks as all vaccinations according to EU UK regulations. So I have a bit of time to read ask and even take training lessons for my knowledge.

I will keep you posted and asked many silly questions as I have started reading a lot about GSD. It is better to read ask and prepare family in order to avoid hurting dog and causing havoc in house. Plus I read that working dog means a lot to take in so I will be ready.

That's really good Dan that you are doing all this .this way hopefully u will avoid the pitfalls and beable to enjoy your new puppy

Keep asking the questions and we will try and help .
Just for your knowledge short haired gsd are known as standard coat

Excellent Dan. Are you looking to work the dog too or compete in trials?

Fingers crossed the bitch is pregnant and enough puppies which means you can have one

Their parents are champs and puppy is quite from a good healthy litter.

I wish I can if I have the right guidance as me and my wife will split our time to have him a well behaved and trained dog.

Sorry what does it mean to work my dog? I don't have a farm and many sheep to be guarded

Sorry furry I have not known. Now I do.

Thanks

I have seen both parents competing and I don't know if I can achieve such performance in obedience and agility with him.I could not believe such level of understanding communication and perfect coordination between GSD and owner.

I wish I can but let's wait and see.

If u are interested in either discipline u have something really good and fun to work towards. It will also improve the bond u have  with your dog .
Look into either or both .
You won't be able to start until he is older especially with agility and many clubs have waiting lists but something to think about