Hello, I am new. I need some advice on buying a puppy please.

I am trying to find a miniature poodle but I am not sure which health tests should be done on the parents. What is the bare minimum I should ask breeders if they have done, and what is the preferred list of health tests to have been done. Finally, can I assume that puppies from well established show breeders will have done the tests?

It seems that most people have done the PRCD, but little else. Is that sufficient?

I have just started to look for a breeder, and have already come across a few people that have given me a bad feeling. I feel very vulnerable, to be honest, and ill informed. I am really hoping that you can help.

BD

The link gives the recommended tests and information which you may find useful. Hopefully someone who is more familier with the breed will be along to help you further

http://www.dogbreedhealth.com/miniature-poodle/

As you know the DNA test for prcd-pra is recomend by the kc, they also advise a general eye test as well.

I wouldn't asume that an any breeder has done the tests with out seeing proof. You can check the kennel clubs health test finder on the patients to see if they have been tested. The breeder should be able to show you the results as well.

There are two litters advertised currently on the champdogs puppy list where adults are also tested for DM, pra(rcd4), OF, NE, GM2, vWD.
If I was looking for one I would contact those sorts of breeders to enquire about their dogs.

Thank you.

is it necessary to have all these tests on both parents? I have seen DNA certificates for a litter in which the tests are for WD poodle type, MPSVi and DM. Is this how testing is done and is this what is known as a blood test? Is it important to have hip scoring and elbow testing?

I had foolishly assumed that a KC Assured Breeder would be having all these done as a matter of course. It seems that they don't and if they have tested its for eyes only.

Regards the litter on Champdogs in Cumbria, I agree with you and have already considered essential contacting the breeder. However, I wondered perhaps if they are bred for agility and therefore the puppies would be best suited for a very active agility intent family, which I am not. Is this not the case?

BD

Assured breeder are only required to DNA for the pra, eye testing I believe is recommended. The other tests the KC don't mention so an assured breeder doesnt have to do them to be apart of the scheme.
DNA tests are often swabs but the breeder will have results they can show. If a condition is caused by a recessive gene if one patient is clear you could get away with the other not being tested as even if that is affected the pups can only be carriers so won't themselves be affected. If its caused by a dominant gene Both must be tested or pups could be affected if an untested patient is affected.
The standards require hip scoring, no mention of it for the mins on kc however the bva do have scores for 81 minature poodles so some breeders are doing it.

You could contact the breed clubs and ask what tests they advise and if they can recomend breeders who do all the testing.

I though all poodles are an active breed anyway? The two I know (one standard one they said is a min but it seems big) both are very active, I'd say hyper and smart. The min is pet bred which prob explains the size the standard I'm not sure on. I'd contact them and explain you living situation, lifestyle and ask if on of their breeding would suite what you can offer, a good breeder would be honest and say if they didn't think it a suitable match.

> , I wondered perhaps if they are bred for agility and therefore the puppies would be best suited for a very active agility intent family, which I am not

Is it really the right breed for a family that is not looking for a very active breed?

The Poodle is second to the Border Collie in intelligence.  I've done obedience and tracking with a Toy Poodle.  She was eager for more, and had energy in abundance.  I did a lot of brain training with her to make sure she was too involved to get into mischief.

A lot of people see the Poodle as a lap dog.  Remember that it was always a working breed.  Food for thought. 

Thank you for your replies, all very useful.

I have been told by one (and well established) breeder that hip scoring and elbow testing isn't necessary for miniature poodles, only standards, so are miniature poodles prone to such issues? Is it worth ditching an otherwise good sounding breeder if she/he doesn't test for this?

Regards the energy, I am afraid I have phrased that badly. We expect to lead a reasonably active life but won't be doing serious agility, or competitive agility although a little bit in the garden sounds fun. My daughter is quite keen on that. However I was thinking more about the differences in working and show cockers, where there seems to be a significant difference.  The dogs I referred to on Champdogs website appear to seriously compete and the breeder implies they would be looking for similar homes. we aren't looking for a lap dog and as much as we can we have read and researched and are aware of the mental and physical stimulation necessary for miniature poodles (as much as can be without actually having one). However that being said I would never want a border collie and your point is well made, that they are in effect working dogs. I had assumed that they were quite far removed from their original purpose.

So are you saying that miniature poodles aren't suitable for the average family home? We aren't sedate people but we aren't intending to do agility either, if that makes sense?

It would be much easier if the KC provided a list of mandatory tests for each breed. I know the eye issue is vital but it seems that other tests are really important too, and if so shouldn't breeders just do all the tests, as opposed to doing some?

DB

I would not worry too much about the activity level. I bought a second dog expecting its activity level would match my other breed. WRONG. She is really lazy, so you can never tell absolutely
Louise



I have been told by one (and well established) breeder that hip scoring and elbow testing isn't necessary for miniature poodles, only standards, so are miniature poodles prone to such issues? Is it


ALL dogs used for breeding should have ALL available health done regardless of breed. All breeds(except Racing Greyhounds) have recorded cases of hip dysplasia & ED can also occur in any breed. For any breeder to believe that their breed does not need ALL available health tests is very foolish & also misleading for their potential customers, regardless of the KC "guidelines"for their chosen breed

I own two standard poodles. I don't compete in anything with them. They are kept busy assisting my disabled child and training with me. Mine are particoloured and not bred for anything in the UK- they can't be shown successfully as their colour is not KC recognised and they are generally a little large to do amazingly well in agility (of course some smaller standards do well but mine are large and minis generally excel there). Thus they are the basic poodle - not especially selected for looks or intellect or drive.

I would say that you don't need to compete but you do need to train. They are second to only border collies in terms of intelligence and if you don't keep those minds busy they will busy themselves! My eldest is 20 months. In addition to all the things I've taught him (all the basic obedience moves plus several rally obedience sequences, plus tricks like "speak" and "all up" - jumping onto a small object and balancing - he has also taught himself how to open doors, how to lift the loo seat lid (to drink from the loo!), how to open the fridge and how to get into flip top, pedal and no touch bins! If you want to really tire him out you can either walk him 5 miles or hide his dinner in a variety of difficult to open containers!

They are amazing dogs, extremely rewarding to own and train but if you don't keep them busy they will keep YOU busy!

> he has also taught himself how to open doors, how to lift the loo seat lid (to drink from the loo!), how to open the fridge and how to get into flip top, pedal and no touch bins!

Still laughing (sorry!)      

The hands-free was funniest. If you've never seen a poodle waving his nose around at a bin to get it to open and being smacked on the chin when it does you've never lived. I sadly never got a good video of it as it was extremely expensive so when he'd sussed it on the 5th day it went straight back to the shop!

I once tried to teach him to not bark at the window by telling him "off" and treating him as soon as he got down. Within 3 days he was running to bark randomly  at nothing in order to obey the inevitable "off" and get a treat! So I switched to throwing a shoe at him (a lightweight croc type shoe, aimed to miss, but it reframed things for him!). If you dont train them they train you.

Replied just now and the post has mysteriously disappeared ... must have pressed the wrong buttons.

Anyway - the image of your poodle waving his nose around to open the bin has made my day.  How very funny and how very clever!

To BD - I have a friend who has always had poodles - currently a Toy.

She adores them and is a kind and caring owner - BUT she does not give them enough to do to occupy their very clever brains.  They are clearly a bit bored and frustrated and end up being very noisy and a bit neurotic.  They can turn their paws to anything and you can see how keen they are to learn and do more.  With more training they would be more rewarding companions too.  Deep down I think my friend knows this but for whatever reason she does not do anything about it.  It's a shame.

"Activities" don't have to be agility.  There are masses of other less physically strenuous things you can do to keep a poodle busy and happy - and to keep him/her out of trouble!

> They can turn their paws to anything and you can see how keen they are to learn and do more.

Blay - never a truer word.  It was remarkable how quickly my toy bitch picked things up.  She was only in the "baby" classes of obedience for 3 weeks.  And was asked to demonstrate the leave for the baby border collies.  Bless her, she played to the audience and loved being clever.  When we went on to tracking she used to pester me to hurry up when we had a class.  Having previously only taken BC's to obedience classes she really opened my eyes.  Whatever I asked of her, she was ready to learn more, and never let me down.  My heartbreak at her loss nearly killed me.  We had grown so close that I swear she knew what I wanted before I asked her.

Not a Poodle, but one of my dogs has been trained in assistance work. Sometimes he gets annoyed that he isn't given enough to do, so he will appear with an item from the bin, or my knife or fork taken off the table, or anything similar. I tell him to put it back, which he happily does -and then expects his reward. He reckons he put rubbish in the bin and handed the cutlery back to me. Clever, but sorry, it doesn't work like that mate -no reward!

Sometimes he does the opposite and decides to be lazy. Opens the door to the bedroom whilst I am still in bed, and walks in without closing the door behind him. I tell him once, nothing. Tell him firmly a second time, so he slams the door shut with a bark. He SHOULD push it shut with his nose, not jump up on it with both frontlegs........

Personally I believe Poodles ARE the most intelligent dogs. "Intelligent as a Poodle", as the common saying goes in Sweden. :)

Thank you everyone for your input.

From some of the replies it seems that  miniature poodle might not be the best bet.

Could I have some ideas on better options?

We want a calm-ish breed, small ish, who would be good for very long walks at weekends as well as sometimes just a good chase around the park. I have a very small garden but live extremely close to a big park and lots of countryside and coast on doorstep. A have a teenage daughter and a husband who has never had a dog before. They both prefer dogs with hair as a opposed to short coat. I personally don't care but I will be the one grooming. I will be the one who does the work with the dog, as its my choice to have one. I am ok with daily grooming. Would prefer not to have a coat that MUST be groomed every six weeks. Don't think I'd have the guts to use clippers myself.

Miniature poodle wasn't my first choice. I really like Llasa Apso, Tibetan Terrier and Havanese, and also Cavalier KC spaniel, (and yes, I do appreciate that these will all need professional grooming) but I have only ever seen them being walked, and don't really know much about temperaments. I have tried to do on line research. It seems that all of these breeds suffer separation anxiety. While I don't intend to leave it for hours on end, it will need to be left on its own sometimes, if we go to the cinema or out to eat, for example.

Some breeds also seem so predisposed to inherited disease, and that's put m doff some.

I considered Some terrier breeds like Westthighland White and Norfolk/Norwich, but was put off by the strong prey instinct. And I saw some Norwich terriers and they looked like fat slugs (I apologise to owners, as I think these ones were elderly and overweight, owned by elderly people). I like Welsh terriers and wire haired fox terriers but again, the terrier instinct I think is too much for us as first time owners.

Again, I'd be very grafeful for your experience and advice. Irrespective of what impression I may have inadvertently given I would be giving a stable good home to a dog. I am not buying based on a whim. I am trying to factor in family requirements, and I have tried to do some research. (Please help!!!!!!!)

I think you need to meet some of the breeds in the flesh.

With Crufts coming up discover Dogs is a good opportunity. Visiting some local smaller shows will also give you an idea.

Once you have a shortlist you need to meet some in their homes.

I am always happy for people interested in my breed to visit to rule them in or out of their choice.  It's a big mistake to make for a companion you will live with for anything from 10 - 15years plus..

> It seems that all of these breeds suffer separation anxiety. While I don't intend to leave it for hours on end, it will need to be left on its own sometimes, if we go to the cinema or out to eat, for example.

Just to pick up on this...ALL breeds will have separation anxiety IF left for hours on end, not just the ones you have mentioned BUT if your doing what most families do by shopping going out for the odd few hours, once the dog is old enough this shouldn't be an issue for ANY breed of dog.

It is very hard to please all family members but if your the one putting in the vast majority of the work, you ought to have the edge on the breed. Terriers are what I consider a smart looking group & I like the look of many of them, you mention the wire fox...have you considered the smooth? Although having said that I'm not sure its the group for a first time dog owner???

I could easily suggest my own breed but I am totally biased...

What about a border terrier?  Less hair than those you've described and a different appearance, but the coat still does still require grooming especially if you're going to hand-strip.

I'm quite a fan of border terriers, as practical and physically healthy little dogs that are 'fit for function', with energy to have a long walk but equally able to cope with slightly less exercise some days.

Some terrier breeds can be quite reactive, but I haven't seen many borders that are (have seen a couple).  So if you can get your head around the different appearance to those you've described, might work quite well...

>We want a calm-ish breed, small ish, who would be good for very long walks at weekends as well as sometimes just a good chase around the park. I have a very small garden but live extremely close to a big park and lots of countryside and coast on doorstep. A have a teenage daughter and a husband who has never had a dog before. They both prefer dogs with hair as a opposed to short coat. I personally don't care but I will be the one grooming. I will be the one who does the work with the dog, as its my choice to have one. I am ok with daily grooming. Would prefer not to have a coat that MUST be groomed every six weeks. Don't think I'd have the guts to use clippers myself.

>Miniature poodle wasn't my first choice. I really like Llasa Apso, Tibetan Terrier and Havanese, and also Cavalier KC spaniel, (and yes, I do appreciate that these will all need professional grooming)

Cavaliers don't need professional grooming unless they develop that horrible thick woolly neutered coat. Not that I'd argue as I love grooming them! My Cavaliers have walked 9 miles or more with my husband at weekends, but they're happy with 10 minutes round the block before work during the week. Yes they have inherited diseases, like most breeds, but if you look on the Club website and ask the breeders about the specialist health tests (hearts, eyes, DNA test, MRI scans) then you have a good chance of getting a dog which will be healthy into old age. I just lost my 13 year old to kidney failure and she was belting around doing scent tests and heelwork to music 2 weeks before! They can be vocal if left, but if they get accustomed to it gradually when young, they will just curl up and sleep while you are out, once they're adults and don't want to play constantly.

> Miniature poodle wasn't my first choice. I really like Llasa Apso, Tibetan Terrier and Havanese, and also Cavalier KC spaniel,

A friend breed lhasas. There seems to be two diffrent types of temperament, most of hers are lower activity levels, there happy with a short walk and are generally calmer, a bit more aloof and one of hers is much more active, on the go most of the time anything but aloof. She can leave them she goes work or comes up here no problem hers are brought up use to being left. There's alot of people breeding them so if you agent with them check out the breeder first and see their dogs and health testing.
They have a new DNA test for pra, they also have a general eye test but I'm told some breeders now plan to just DNA test from now on.

With crufts coming up if go along and check out those breeds discover dogs stands, get an owner's view of them.

I really love Cavaliers but was wary due to the reputation with multiple health issues. Is the woolly coat inevitable for neutering?

>I really love Cavaliers but was wary due to the reputation with multiple health issues. Is the woolly coat inevitable for neutering?

Not inevitable but pretty common. You could always leave your dog entire - seasons aren't a big deal, just play games in the garden instead of walks for three weeks. Or for a boy, training and maturity usually sort out any humping or marking, it's just that new owners rush off to get them neutered when it starts instead of working through it.

I have had a long look at border terriers, and to my astonishment I like them. But I suspect they are stubborn and quite hard to train, with a strong chase instinct?

Had 2 or 3 borders come to class over the years, They are untypical as they don't seem to have the same 'terrorist' attitude  that most of the terrier group do and a lot easier to train.

Actually they are one of the more biddable terriers and are required to be good with other dogs as their role was to run with foxhounds.

They seem to be a breed often kept  with my breed.

I know quite a few Borders that work obedience and agility, I agree that they are more laid back and much more trainable than your average terrier, though I do know the Jack Russell and Cairn Obreedience team people do very well with their dogs. I groom quite a few Border terriers and they are a very pleasant breed, and again you could learn to handstrip yourself, hardly any tools required, or take to a groomer every 5 months, so not too intensive.

I do think there are types of border Terrier. Some lurcher type men near us have very unpleasant working  borders that tend to attack . I always remember my dog unfriendly Great Dane being attacked by a pair. She picked one up shook it and tossed it into the bushes.
However I have also met pleasant and friendly borders but most of them seem to  have strong hunting tendencies and have to be on a lead to prevent them doing their own thing and running off.

It's all to do with socialisation and training.  Most of the borders I've had through classes over the past 15 years (I'm a trainer) have been lovely.  They are typically very food motivated which makes them very trainable. 

If I were to own a terrier breed, they would be my choice - and I'm a trainer and like biddable and trainable dogs :)

Those kept rurally, meeting few other dogs and being used for ratting are going to have developed their 'react first, think later' muscles somewhat!!

I would think the ones owned by 'lurcher men' would be bred with very little thought apart from 'how sharp is it' and 'that is far to soft to work'

Hi. We’re currently planning to get a new addition to our family, a working black Labrador bitch puppy, hopefully around the summer time. I’ve done a lot of research into the breed and breeders in advance but have noticed that quite often by the time litters are advertised they are already all reserved. I’d like to know what is the best way to find a good quality puppy/planned litter from a reputable breeder before they are all reserved. We are in the North East of England. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

My advice would be to look up all the breeders and find the one you like the most, get to know them and form a bond and then just wait until they have a litter! It might mean you're waiting longer, it might mean you getting a puppy at a time you wouldn't consider the most convenient but they aren't made to order sadly! But the waiting will be worth it 100%. The breeder of your puppy should become your friend and there should be mutual trust and respect between you as you're potentially going to be in each other's lives for 12 years+

A good breeder will usually advertise their litter before the mating has even taken place, and this is the time to get on their list and to form a relationship with them. 

It also counts (in my eyes) if people then actually wait and still want a pup from me - they score extra points from me, for controlling their 'impulse buy' instinct and for not rushing off elsewhere to get a less good pup sooner.

Agree with Keesiekisses.

I usually have my plans up to a year in advance on my website and people go on my waiting list once I am happy that one of my pups and they are likely to be suited.

I tend to take no more than three for each sex, and keep rechecking that they are still with me once bitch comes in season, is mated, confirmed in whelp and so on.

Any more people I tell them they have less chance of a puppy but that I will pass them to the next breeder should not enough pups be born.

Then once pups are born and all is well finally contact people to offer them a pup, let down those who are too far down the list, and pass them to a fellow breeder.

Of course nature does not always play fair, and a larger than expected litter, or a predominance of one sex, several litters born close together may mean some pups are available.   These are generally the pups still available when advertising.  This is why you are often finding yourself disappointed.

Thank you for you help.

Hi. Thanks for your advice. I’ll continue to research possible breeders.

Thank you for your reply and advice.

I have an update.

I have visited a couple of breeders over the last few days. I have decided on a breed. I met a lovely breeder and although she doesn't have a pup available yet now, and may not have any more litters, I know what I want, and I will wait for a puppy from someone trustworthy. I have a recommendation from KC secretary for breed and she has given me details of a litter in my region. I am waiting to hear back on that one.

I have just come back from the most extraordinary visit to a breeder. He could well read this forum so I will try to be discrete which means I will have to leave a lot of information out. If I told you everything your eyes would pop.

Long story short. A KC assured breeder and licensed at local authority. Dad there, with mum and pups in a large crate. Dog suspicious, growled at me and hid behind breeder, but eventually came out. I was a bit worried he might bite, I just got a bad vibe from him, and although he came and allowed me to fuss him, there was not much of that doggy friendliness, and mad waggy tail. if you know what I mean.  I felt he was assessing me, he put his paws up on me and just looked me in the eye. Odd. When I sat next to the litter pen he stood between me and the pen, so I guess that was guarding. He was amazingly pretty, very beautiful. With the breeder and his wife dog was very friendly and they said he was just a bit bothered as another bitch next door was in season. So it could have been that. But if I am truthful I didn't really trust this dog and thought, I don't want your genetics in my puppy.

Bitch was very small. Undersized I thought. It came out that this was her first litter and also his first litter from an accidental mating (they were separated but that failed). So not breeding to improve the line then. Puppies were fat and happy looking, five of them. I knew quite early that they weren't for me so didn't really pay much attention to them. They were just crawling. Three or four weeks I think. I didn't even ask to see them beyond looking from a distance as they seems too small.

Re health testing, none part from the KC eye recommended test. He said he doesn't bother testing for diseases he knows his lines don't have. Said this breed don't have problems with hips and elbows. But then it came out that the pretty dog's father was imported very recently from abroad. so I don't know how much they know about that dog's susceptibility to disease and inherited conditions it will pass on to offspring.

One puppy had been sold based on its colour/markings. At that age, and chosen on colour alone -amazing!!  i said I'd think about it and he said I'd need to pay a deposit if I wanted one. Implication was I needed to make up my mind.  The prices are quite expensive. Maybe they took one look at me and thought I'd pay anything they asked. He told me his prices are high as he is a quality breeder (and he looked me straight in the eye and said how hard they were to find) and KC assured breeder.

He and his wife were very charming, and gave me their potted history of why they breed, but as they chatted they kept contradicting themselves and little things slipped out.

Just checked out his prefix. Lots of litters advertised with all kinds of matings betwen different dogs, also some cross breeds from at least another two litters. I have calculated that over a year on an average he will have at least 12 litters, and with an average of 4 pups per litter he definitely earns more than I do. In fact I don't like my job that much, and feel I may as well just get a few random dogs from gumtree and make some cash. Get a couple of young bitches (no, let's say 4) and a dog online.

Bit shell shocked really. perhaps I should get out more. but KC assured. Really? It appears to mean nothing and I have lost any faith I had in that.

BD

In some breeds there are many puppy farmers linked to Assured Breeders and in others none are known.

Maybe go back to the breeder you really liked and if she's not breeding ask her advice on decent reputable breeders who breed the type you like and health test and care what the results are. Temperament is key whatever the breed.

Just like Suejaw has said, go back to the breeder that you do like - she might be able to recommend a breeder that she trusts and perhaps even give them your name

Sounds like you have a good gut instinct and made the right call with that breeder! Those poor dogs

Thank you.

I had asked breeder, and she commended I call the breed secretary. The secretary recommended I contact a breeder in my region. I spoke to her this morning already (was told morning best time, obviously!)

So, she is expecting a litter. Just one litter. SHe breeds for herself Hasn't bred anything in three years. She and husband are also involved in KC in showing and judging. She sounds great, knowledgable, experienced. I have researched her line and the breed who is the father. Both appear as established, and also successful at shows. Bitch comes from litter where Crufts champion. BUT she only does eye test and no others. She says she knows her lines and what illnesses they have never shown evidence of. And the lines of the father, as she has worked with this breeder for many years.

So now what?

SHe is recommended by KC breed secretary. But she isn't KC assured breeder (not sure what that means anymore) and she doesn't do the testing.

Now I really would appreciate some advice!!!!!

BD

Not being an assured breeder certainly wouldn't put me off if everything is in order apart form that. There are many good breeders who pulled out of that scheme for varying reasons all very understandable. It isnt a reflection on their breeding practices or themselves. I will let others explain more about the vagracies of the scheme. Testing would concern me

Which breed is it that you're looking for? With the kees the only necessary tests done are for PHPT and even then, some might not be tested as they are clear by parentage. OES are the same with PCD, so it very well could be that these tests aren't done because the lines mean the conditions can't be present, but I would expect it would say so on the parents certificates - on my keesies KC cert it states "clear by parentage"

As Hip Dysplasia & Elbow Dysplasia occur in all KC recognised breeds, logically ALL dogs used in breeding should be scored.

There are other health issues that are common amongst all sizes of poodle so to only eye test is not the way to go IMHO

Recommended health tests for Miniature Poodles - https://www.thekennelclub.org.uk/services/public/breed/health.aspx?id=4098

Recommended health tests for Border Terriers - https://www.thekennelclub.org.uk/services/public/breed/health.aspx?id=3062

I agree. That Hips and clinical Eye test should be done for all breeds.

It does seem that very few of the smaller breeds HD score to any great degree.

> As Hip Dysplasia & Elbow Dysplasia occur in all KC recognised breeds, logically ALL dogs used in breeding should be scored.

Re Elbows I don't think it is considered a problem in many breeds, mostly the heavier larger breeds..

It is not recommended in my breed and internationally where they have been tested (mostly Scandinavia, where they now don't ask for it in my breed any more) of hundreds tested all have been 0 other than less than half a dozen 0/1's.  all those done in USA have been 0.

I have decided to do Elbows (started 5 years ago), as a few years ago a pup I bred had gone lame and they were sent for investigations for Elbow Dysplasia, and did arthroscopy to find a little bit of loose cartilage.  This totally rinsed out the owners Insurance 9a budget Policy, and they were told it was hereditary (but did not conclude he had any of the abnormal developments of ED).  After I sent the scoring Data for the breed they backtracked.

The puppy was 6 months old and had been overweight when I saw it at 4 months at a club show. they had allowed it to get to 32kg, when few males of the breed reach the 23kg average for about 4 years and a pup of that age would weigh no more than 15- 18kg.

So for my own peace of mind, and to avoid owners being convinced by vets to investigate ED, before anything else if a pup goes lame I have decided to score all mine for ED and have persuaded one person whose dog I have used to do so, but as a breed it is not done.

The small number that have been scored have all been 0.

Of course I do the DNA testing we now have, and Clinical Eye testing to check for any emerging considions beyond the PRA and Glaucoma we have DNA tests for.

Going back to the OP's posts, I am one of those who came out of the Assured Breeder Scheme as it did seem to be more about the more commercial element being able to demonstrate basic standards of care (not a bad thing) but seemed to be to one size fits all, and not so relevant to the adhoc breed enthusiast occasional breeder.

As most people have their own way of doing things, suited to their circumstances and facilities, I just  did not like being told how I should do things, and the scheme did not seem to address the whole ethos, quality and purpose of my breeding. I didn't feel I needed to prove anything and that adhering to my breed clubs code of ethics proved all I needed.

There were also some aspects I did not agree with such as how I keep records, (seems no-one without a computer could do what was required), and the insistence on regular vaccinations (I don't agree with re-vaccinating adults after first year, etc.

It sounds like you are discovering the lie of the land

I wouldn't look any closer at a KC Assured Breeder than at any other breeder.  Because there are great ones, and there are really poor ones bordering on puppy farmers.  So they're all on a level playing field, and you need to check out each one.

Without knowing what breed you've chosen to go with, it's hard to advise on health tests and which you really should expect results for...