
Turn it into a game, and don't use the halti for a little while while you work on it (ideally not the lead either if she's scared of both so she may be stuck at home for a few days unless you can drive her somewhere she's safe off lead and keep the lead on you for emergencies).
Rather than just trying to get her used to it, approach it from a different angle. I've read recently of someone having great success with a dog scared of his lead and harness by doing targetting with them rather than trying to make the putting-on experience better - by taking it completely out of context he's improved a lot.
Doesn't have to be anything fancy - just having the halti laid somewhere and when she goes near it, reward her (clicker works great for this, or a quick clicker word that means treats like 'yes!'). As she gets closer, reward her only for the closest sniffs, and then for touches with her nose.
You should find she'll start to target it by herself - touching it with her nose for a treat. Do the same with the lead as well (separately at first, and then together) until she's really excited about them - then you can start working on putting them on her again. Baby steps - nose-touches with you holding them to start with, then with her nose through the loop (and take it off straight away), then with it done up and taken off, so on and so forth until she's happy for you to put it on and walk a little bit, then take it outside - go back a step to start with (so start from her putting her nose in only and build up again) as it's a different environment and dogs aren't good at generalising training in different places.
As for the scared outside - get yourself a copy of Behavioural Adjustment Training by Grisha Stewart, or look it up on youtube - that'll help you teach her how to 'control' her environment and the scary things and should build her confidence no end. Do NOT try to force her to socialise - if she's scared and you try to expose her to things too much she'll only get more scared. If she reacts, walk her away - you're too close. Everything needs to be started at a distance she's comfortable with and built up from there - with a scaredy dog I tend to start far away and shovel the dog full of food before they start tensing up, to get the good associations going. Then I start to move closer carrying on the rewards - BAT however uses 'functional rewards' (i.e. distance from the scary thing as opposed to food) and so far seems to be fantastically effective and quicker, so I'm looking into that for my reactive dog at the moment.