Hi this is my 1st post and I need some help! I was reading articles that might make hand rearing puppies easier but there seems to be no easy way.
My girlfriends brother had a beautiful French masiff called sandy and she died due to birth complications yesterday and her 8pups that survived are only 2 weeks and a few days old.   My girlfriends brother is just not interested. So I stayed a night to help her feed them. The vets taught us how but we have never done in before and there are 8! We had no sleep and it is very stressful. One pup died today under our care and we are struggling at this early stage.  I read that I may be able to find a surrogate mother for a few week.

We really need help.  Many thanks.

you need a good milk supplement such as lactol or whelpi . a couple of baby bottles... I use newborn baby bottles from boots or tesco. You must also sterilise the bottles before and after use.
I found it easiest to have a cushion on my lap hold the pup in the palm of your hand facing away from you with the head between your fingers let the front legs hang free so that they can do a paddling motion and the back legs touch the cushion which makes it easier for your and pups  comfort.I found it easier to toilet pup before a feed with cotton wool in a circular motion as sometimes they wont feed if they need to go to the loo (no 1 and no 2)
Pop the bottle of milk into warm water to warm up then test it on the inside of your arm should be body temp , pop the teat into the puppies mouth making sure the teat is full of milk so as not to give the pup wind.You may have to persevere until they get used to it once they start to suck the front legs will usually do a padding motion.
Once puppies belly is  full give the tummy a little gentle rub in a circular motion and he should burp a little bit of wind up if you have trouble getting the wind up pop pup onto your shoulder and tap gently on the back ..you could then try to see if he need toileting if not  then pop back into nice warm whelping box. 

Re- surrogate have you contacted breed clubs etc or maybe someone on CD can put you in touch .

Many thanks for your advice Starryeyes.  I did not know to burp them so i will do that. I will also try to make them deficate before feeding like you suggest.

One of the pups was deteriorating and we really dont want to loose another one, so we took them all to a RSPCA centre (we live in North London), to get them all checked and to get help feeding.

I think the best thing for the pups is for us to find a surrogate mother.  in the last 2 days and nights we have hardly slept at all because we are constantly worrying about the pups well being and if they have had enough milk.

I must mention, they are douge de bordeaux cross German Sheppard.  I know, very unusuall.  My girlfriends brother stupidly did not seperate the two when her was supposed to.  They have more of the characteristics of Bordeaux's except their fur is slightly darker and some of their faces are fairly dark, similar to a bull mastiff's face.

OK, I'm probably going to get shot down in flames for suggesting this but do you think it may be better to humanly reduce some of this litter.

It is very hard work hand rearing a litter, look at some of the other threads on here and, as you're already saying how hard you and your girlfriend are finding it after two days, it might be for the best.

Please note that you are not allowed to state the breed of litters on here.  Read the TOS.

JeanSW - Sorry I should have read the rules before mentioning that.  I just now tried to edit but the time has expired.

Biffsmum - We were at one point thinking the same. But I dont think we can go through with doing that.  The RSPC were very good and we left 3 of the weakest ones with them. They gave some good advice too. We had a call form them and they are getting stronger, they say we can pick them up this eve.

Our main objective now is to try and get a surrogate mum for some of the pups as it has a lot easier with 4 than with 7!

I will keep you all posted with the pups progress.

Just letting you all know the pups are doing a lot better, we picked up the other 3 from the RSPCA and they were much stonger.  We are geting more confident in being able to care for them as they dont cry as much and seem happy!  The vet is also pleased with the pups progress. 

Its still very hard work, but we are going to hang in there.  Thanks for your advice so far. 

I will post again soon.

great news .

At 2 1/2 weeks they are old enough to teach to lap semi solid food, which will make the hand rearing a lot easier.

Do a search on here for weaning and there are lots of threads as to how when and what you can give.

Also what caused the bitches death at this late stage as it may be something that might affect the puppies (infection), what did the puppy that died die of?.

Sandy had 2 major complications; she has a bacterial stomach infection which was causing a lot of fluid to build up.  The vet said this in itself was life threatening, possibly due to a rupture of the birthing cannal. She also had a twisted spleen, another life threatening condition according to the vet.

As well as all this, she was malnourished, when we saw her and she was a bag of bones with an inflated belly because of the fluid build up. She looked so depressed.  It took 35-40mins to gently move her from her kennel through the garden to the car.  I was so upset that she wasn't taken to the vet earlier.  We took the pups away from my girlfriend's brother immediately.

Sandy was not producing enough milk for the pups, the one that died during the 1st night was very weak and just wouldn't take any milk, open its eyes and her breathing didn't seem right. We took her to the vet and he gave some glucose and said we should try feed her more regularly than the rest. She was taking milk after that but died a few hours after.

Of the 3 we took to the RSPCA one is stronger. The RSPCA called us to collect them as they were on the right track. But of the 3, we took 2 back to them because they just want to sleep and we could wake them up properly to drink milk.  We had a call about 30mins ago, the vet said they recommend they be put down as they don't seem to be responding to glucose and their breathing is causing them discomfort.  I am heartbroken. 

I'm sorry about the lost pups but you have to think of the ones you are trying to rear,a nd perhaps grieve for the others later.

If the poor bitch was malnourished it is almost certain that she wasn't wormed,a nd the pups will need doing soon.  A heavy worm burden will stop pups from thriving and can even be life threatening, not to mention cause life long disgestive damage.

I would perhaps wait until they were stabilised and then worm them as it can upset their feeding and digestion in some cases.

Did the Vet prescribe the pups Antibiotics in case the bacterial infection has been passed to the puppies?

If you start the pups weaning now I don't know how much longer or if at all you will need to bottle feed them.

Cannot advise as I have never had pups of this age not have access to Mum, but I have started puppies on weaning food as early as 10 days or when eyes opened when weight gain was slowing.

My current pups I started on day 19 as there are just five, but they were more than ready and devoured what I gave.  they have been on four meals a day since 3 weeks.

I would imagine your pups will need four meals of mushy puppy food followed by puppy milk formula (bottle or bowl, someone should advise who has hand reared) and I would imagine they would need another two milk feds until at least five weeks to make up for what Mum would have been doing.

After that the four normal puppy meals plus milk would suffice to say 6 weeks and then milk can be fazed out all the time the puppy food will increase in volume and dryness.

We are focused on caring for the pups so thats all that matters now.
We are going to worm them ASAP and no the Vet did not prescribe any antibiotics.  I will speak to the vet and ask about this.

On sunday they will be 3 weeks old so I will try and get them onto some puppy food and see how that goes.

Many thanks for your help so far!

I start mine on abotu day 18 so that they have been on solids a few days before i worm at 3 weeks, over the following three days.

You will need to worm again 2 weeks later and then again before they go to new homes around 8 weeks.

Brainless,

Can i ask is there a particular brand/s of puppy food which would suit such a young litter? I don't breed and therefore asking yourself. I know that Royal Canin do a Starter Puppy food, not sure how good that is or if there is anything else which would be just as good?
I'm just thinking as to whether normal puppy food is ok to give or not?

Normal puppy food well soaked is perfectly fine with the addition of a proprietary milk replacer.  I know some people don't bother with the milk at all if there is nothing wrong with Mums' supply.

I always use Arden Grange Puppy not the weaning food, used to use the Prestige.  I am also using Royal Canin as we did win quite a bit of it.

another easy to use puppy food is nature diet puppy you can get this at pets at home or most pet shops you can warm it up in the microwave and mash with a fork or add a bit of puppy mik to make it more palatable for young puppies .
I also feed Arden Grange to my adult dogs normally but my last litter I used Nature Diet and found it so much easier.

Another vote here for ND. My last litter I used both kibble (Burns Puppy) and ND Puppy. The pups preference, and mine for ease of mashing, was by far the ND. By the time they went to their new homes all of them were on ND only.

Went to see the vet for a consultation and  he doesn't think antibiotics are needed. He says their weight is a little low but nothing to worry about. 

We are using Welpi puppy milk formula; we use 1 level scoop of powder to two measures of water as per the instructions.  Some of the puppies are not passing faeces.  You could see they were trying.  The Vet gently pressed their bellies and they then managed to go toilet. We asked if they were constipated and the vet didn't give a yes or no, he just said if they have trouble going to the toilet again he will give us something to help soften the stools.

I was wondering if the milk formula I am using is too rich? Could this be the cause?

After they feed some seem to cough for a while and then go very still. While feeding they are quite lively!

Oh, one last thing - We asked if we can start them on puppy food mixed with the milk formula. The vet said not until 4 weeks. Now i am in two minds as i do want to start weaning them asap....

I would give drops of cooled boiled water in a bottle inbetween feed lack of fluids cause constipation , use a damp cottonwool in a circular motion as this simulates mother cleaning.
Vet is talking test book 'brainless' has bred more puppies than most her advice is invaluable. I began weaning early on a litter I hand reared.
Feeding is exhausting for a pup , make sure the powder had mixed in well they usually do sleep after a feed, dont forget to wind.

Its entirely your choice.

My current litter are 4 weeks old and have been eating since 19 days and are currently eating a pound of complete dry puppy food a day between five of them.  I hate to think how pulled down Mum would be if they had not started solids yet!

As I have said before if the vet does not breed themselves their practical knowledge on the subject will be limited.

The fact he didn't mention stimulating them to toilet makes me wonder, as pressing their tummies is not the way to do it?

As your hand rearing anything that makes your work less onerous has got to be worth doing. Individual bottle feeding all their meals, rather than getting them to eat partly on their own seems pointless.

Thanks Brainless, I will start to feed them puppy food as you know what you are talking about! :) Many thanks.

Hi All,

How much puppy food shal i feed 5, 3week old puppies?  As i understand it, I have to mix it with milk formula (we use Welpi) but i dont know how much to feed them?

How often do i feed them? I was thinking every 4 hours? I dont want to over feed.

Regards,
Neal

if it is a puppy porridge it should give you the amount on the container.   If not I would mix approximately 1tbs for each pup with the milk formula - this I would offer 4 x daily, plus their usual bottle of milk, I take it that is at the moment every 4 hours.  It should be the consistency of sloppy porridge, sometimes you have to add extra liquid as it begins to get rather thick.  Pick up and take away after they have fed, do not leave lying around.

After feeding the pups will need cleaning (unscented baby wipes) and drying, otherwise they will shiver and cry.   Use a clean towel after each feed.

If they clear all the puppy porridge quickly then you can adjust the amount and give them a little more at the next feed, I would offer them the bottle after each feed, just like you would if they were still feeding from mum.

Do not forget as you wean them to offer them water in a shallow dish, but do not leave in with them as they will drown in it, they should be supervised, and then take the water away.   To begin with they will not want water, but as you increase the amount of dry food and decrease the amount of bottled milk they will begin to need a drink.

Start off with a small amount (half a handful and 1/4 pint of puppy milk added to the soaked and mashed food.

Then give each a taste(you can use a baby spoon or your fingers/hands.

Once they get the idea stand the flat dish (I often start with Pyrex dish tops) onto a bowl so that it just overlaps and raises the dish off the ground to their chest height.

The first day give perhaps two meals, then 3 and then four.  Give as much as they will eat in about 15 minutes (you may need to encourage and point in the right direction).  Follow this with the bottle.  In addition I would give a bottle last thing and perhaps very early in the morning having the proper meals at say 8 - 9am, 12- 1pm, 5 - 6pm, 10pm.  So the extra bottles at say Midnight and 5 - 6am.

Just keep increasing the size of their meals with their appetites.  If they completely clear one, try a little more next time, or next day.

I would imagine that you should be able to do without the bottles by 5 weeks and offer the extra milk feeds as a drink in a dish.

At some point you will decrease the amount of milk.  I would suggest dropping it from the puppy food at around 5 to 6 weeks so that your just giving a drink morning and night at 6 weeks up until they leave, unless they get loose when it may be prudent to cut the milk out totally after 6 weeks.

Apart from a good puppy food you may as the weeks progress like to vary their meals a bit replacing or adding to them things such as raw meat, scrambled eggs etc.  There are many and varied favourite weaning regimes.  Sticking to a good puppy food if your not experienced will be fine.

Dogsdinner and Brainless,

Many thanks for you advice! We used a bowl with a small dish on top at chest height as suggested with the mashed up puppy food with milk.  The pups seem to love the stuff.  I think I will be increasing the amount as they clear the plate of food in no time!  I am giveing them a big heaped table spoon of puppy food with about 30-35ml of Welpi (for each pup).

They still manage to get their paws mucky, as well as their faces and chest's!

I only gave one bottle feed yesterday and they didnt seem to mind.  I dont think they will mind at all if i stop the bottle feeds all togethor.  As for giving them water, can I go ahead and give a little water now? I know you mentioned it already Dogdinner. They are 3 weeks and 3 days today.

I wish I could post pic's of them. I am very happy they are doing well, and thats down to all of your advice on this forum!

Ah, that's so good to hear that the pups are doing better. What a very sad story, but thanks to you these babies have every chance.

I would just add that I know lots of people who give fresh goats milk rather than Whelpi. We gave it to our pups after every meal (prepared beforehand and added to empty bowls after) and they loved it. Something else I'm going to try with our next litter is a milky evening meal last thing made from cheap tinned rice pudding with extra milk added, it fills them up and helps them to sleep.

We also tried our pups when first weaning with previously frozen beef mince. Just buy a frozen bag of steak mince (must be good stuff, not too much fat), defrost, and roll up into little balls. Feed it raw. The pups will absolutley love it I guarantee.

It sounds like you're doing a grand job, bless you, you deserve a medal!!!!!!!!!

> They still manage to get their paws mucky, as well as their faces and chest's!
>

I am glad things are going well ;)

Unscented baby wipes will be a great help, also baby bath liquid in a bowl of water for more through sponging down, make sure to dry them well.

Regarding water i put a dish of water down for them once on solids, though while ti is fed sloppy they won't drink a lot.

Glad that they are taking to the puppy porridge okay.   However, they still need to have a bottle offered at least 5 times a day at this age.  Itis hard work I know, but they are still only babies.  If you keep on with the bottle and offer them the porridge 4 times daily you won't go far wrong, gradually as they grow and as they take more porridge you can lengthen the time between bottle feeds, but as Brainless says they should still be receiving milk from the bottle.   You may find in another week or so that they will lap the milk, but it is trial and error,  the bottle, especially at this age is the easiest way to ensure that they all get their fair share of milk.

You can also offer water in a very shallow dish, but do not leave it down as they may drown in it, as they take more solids they will require more water.

Very kind of you to post your experiance and encouragement.  Many thanks.
Pups are doing great, they are getting bigger! Its going to be sad when they go.

Hi all,

I was hoping someone could give me some advice on toilet training our pups.  They are 4weeks old today, and I haven't got a clue!!

We normally keep their cage closed at all times unless they cry or make noise, then we open the cage.  They usually wee or poo as soon as we let them out and sometimes wee in their cage.

Should I leave their cage open at all times?  The problem is when we do leave it open they can't seem to find their way back in, and just huddle in random places.  It makes me concerned that at night they will not be warm enough unless we keep them in their cage with their hot water bottle.

The main issue I suppose is getting them to wee and poo in a specified area not anywhere they want.

Many thanks for all your advice so far!

They're far too young for any specific toilet training yet. They're only at the age to manage to leave their bedding to wee and poo - learning them to go in a specific place (and let's face it, the only correct place is outside) is way beyond their capabilities. When they're big enough to be spending more time out of doors you should be able to rush each one outside so that it can perform out there while you clean up the midden that is their indoor area!

They need to have access from the cage to a small area that is enclosed you can buy puppy panels online (various heights to suit different breeds), and cover the area with newspaper, this area can be enlarged as they get bigger, this encourages them to do their wees and poos away from their bed.However, I think that you are being rather optomistic for them to be clean at this age, some still wee on their bedding at 6, 7, 8 weeks - well in my breed that is (large breed) they are not very fussy where they go.

At 4 weeks, my breed would only be leaving their whelping area for short periods, as they still sleep a lot, they usually do manage to get off their vetbed and do their wees and poos on newspaper, and then after a short period of play go back to sleep.   They will get dirtier as they get bigger and it becomes a constant round of feeding, cleaning, feeding, cleaning..........   this now becomes the hardest time, with a big breed, as they begin to demand more space, more food, and round and round it goes until they are ready to go to their new homes at about 8 weeks of age.

If the area to begin with is not too large they will find their way back to the heat source if they are cold.  As my breed gets larger, at about 5/6 weeks and their big fluffy coats develop they often sleep on the newspaper rather than on the vetbed, some still like their home comforts and prefer the vet bed, so we give them a choice.

Must add that when puppy people come to view and they ask 'Are they house trained' my husband always says 'Yes, to go anywhere they like'!!!!

With my own breed by the time they can walk (2 1/2 weeks) the cage will be attached to a puppy pen (the room I allows for a 3 x 4 foot pen attached to a 42 x 28 inch cage.

Shortly after this they start to be able to pee and poo unaided and will try to go and at least poo away from theri beds, usually in the corners, they will grunt and circle around.

By 4 - 4 1/2 weeks they are getting frustrated with such small space and this is when they get to go outdoors.  I have a kennel for shelter during the day and a 10 x 12 foot run,a dn very soon they are going in the far corners of the pen.

You could make up a safe area (at least 6 x 6 feet) using puppy pen panels (most gardens are too easy for baby pups to come to harm, get through cracks), and also supply some knd of shelter, as they will want to stay out for most of their waking time.  You coudl use something like one of those small garden stores.

They will usually be happy enough to go in their indoor pen for sleep time, and while you clean up their outdoor facilities.  In fact it will be a constant round, of cleaning, so moving them from one pen to the other.  No sooner have you cleaned one area they will christen it anew.

JeanGenie, Dogsdinner and Brainless.

Many thanks for your advice yet again! Seriously, if I diddnt find this forum with such knowledgeable Owners/breeders I would be lost!

So i am not to worry about toilet training them just yet then!  I recently bought some pannels as the breed we have will be large!  I can attach the pannels to the cage.

I will leave the cage open with the attached pannels.  They are 4 weeks so at 5 1/2 I will take it outside, I can get a cover to keep them dry.

With regards to food, I am still making a kind of mushy porridge with welpi milk formula and Tinned puppy food.  I have read posts that suggest i should be using a better quality stuff rather than tinned.  Hills is reccomened, along with food like scrmbeled eggs, mince and chicken?

There are foods with much better quality ingredients than the overpriced Hills.

Favourites among breeders here are Arden Grange, Royal Canin, James Well Beloved etc, puppy ranges in all of these.

You will get through a lot of food.

In my breed basically at 4 - 5 weeks they will be on about half the amount of an adult, by 8 weeks as much as an adult, and by 10 weeks more than an adult per day.

I certainly would buy the puppy food a 15kg bag at a time.

Hi, as this is probably a one-off time for rearing a litter, you don't really want to be spending more money than you need to. I purchased a roll of garden wire fencing from Wilkinsons last year (about £15). I made sure the holes in the wire weren't very big, and if you've a large breed puppy, make sure you buy the tallest one they have. I then went to the builder's merchants and bought some steel pins used to make temporary fences (about £1 each), I then used the garage wall as one side, used the metal poles as corners, and used tent pegs to peg the bottom of the wire fencing roll down into the grass. This stopped pups from squeezing underneath. Lastly I got an old stair gate and tied it to the last pole to create a gate so mum/me could go in/out (I tripped over the wire tooooo many times...lol!!).

So for less than £20 I had a puppy run for 9 fairly large breed puppies which measured about 20' x 15'. Because it was next to a building (garage) there was always some proper shade and a handy concrete path which could be wetted down to keep pups cool (it was during the heatwave last year!). I also had a cheap gazebo and put this up for extra shade. Oh, and when it was hot, I got 2 small paddling pools from the £ shop for them to have a paddle. Oh, and get the biggest box you can find, tip it up on it's side & watch the fun! PS Don't forget the toys, lots of different ones if you can find them, they love toilet roll inners, and soft balls/toys, also give them something to chew like puppy Nylabones, ours loved them.

You'll find when they're spending more time outside, they'll naturally go to toilet in the corners, also when you have this set up take them straight outside when they wake up from a sleep, you'll be surprised how quickly they pick it up. The mess in the house is however unbelievable, I had the mop and bucket ready at all times & always had toilet roll on the corners of the outside run to pick up poo straight away before someone comes along and runs/rolls in it... great fun!

As they get bigger they will need lots of space to run about and play/explore. I know someone who had a litter in a crate for most of the time it was a pitiful sight!

What a shame we can't post pictures......

Good luck, sounds like you're doing a great job!
Tanya

Great ideas tanya.  Lots of kitchen rtoll I foudn handly and also a gallon of petsafe disinfectant.

I foudn teh best way was to get a mop for the sole use in the puppy pen, that way y0u can clean up poo, and disinfect as you go along without getting it soaking wet, adn then do the whole lot when pusp are in bed.

Is petsafe a brand name bainless? I'm not really sure if I used the right stuff last time & we're planning a litter now, so will get in some good stuff for cleaning...

Thanks

Nope I meant one for safe use in kennels or around for animals

Lol, I thought that was probably what you meant...

I was thinking about getting some Parvocide for our next litter. Have read it is good for soaking a mat on entry into the property (for other dogs and humans) and you can put some in a spray bottle to mist over dogs when they've been out and about. Is it suitable for cleaning out puppy areas? Need to do some more research into it really.

What do others use? I used anticeptic disinfectant last time which seemed to work alright, although the puppy room did smell a little of urine after a while. Whether right or not, I bleached the floor which sorted this (no pups around until definitely dry).

To be honest, when they're outside on the grass, they must be picking up all sorts of germs, not a sterile environment.

I wonder how the OP is getting on with the pups today? Hope they're alright.

Hi all,
I've not had a good day at all! I thought I was getting the hang of hand rearing but obviously not....

When we fed them milk out of a bottle in the early hours of yesterday one of the girls was coughing quite a lot afterwards, some milk went down the wrong way.
She was not moving around much when we woke again, she had less of an appetite and she seemed weaker.
I took her to the vet and he said she may have liquid in her lungs.

He did an xray and other tests, it turns out she has pneumonia due to milk in her lungs. She has been kept in and she is on a drip and oxygen. They mentioned draining the fluid in a pup just 4weeks isn't a good idea.

I really don't want to loose her, you get so attached to them. I hope she pulls through.

Sorry to hear about one of the pups.   I had one with pneumonia from inhaling the milk from its mother - she was put on antibiotics and pulled through and grew up and lived to 13 plus years.   Keeping fingers crossed for your girl.

Oh no Neal, so sorry to hear this!

I guess with such small babies, this can just happen. When you've put so much effort into them, it's heartbreaking I know! Like the previous poster has said she may just be fine, at least she's in the best place and you did the right thing for her in getting veterinary help.

Positive thoughts coming your way...

Itsadogslife - Thanks for your post and positive thoughts, I actually beleive in positive thinking and mind over matter so thanks for the positive energy.  (sounds a little crazy, but hey, thats me :) )

On another note, We bought a bag of puppy food that we have to soak. Its called Barking Heads puppy food, its a blue bag and seems to have good indredients. The pups love it!

After I feed them the specified amount they still cry and try to suckle each other and chew at the blankets I use for their bedding. The thing is their belly's seem full, you can see and feel they have a fair amount in their bellys. I know im going over old ground, but shall I feed them untill they just stop on their own?
bareing in mind we do still feed them every 4-5 hours, and they are a big breed.

I feed as much as they will eat, after 20 minutes discard what is left (I would give to Mum, but you haven't got one :( )

Suckling is instinctive and for comfort as well as food and at this age they would still be getting a lot of milk feeds from Mum and not be ready to drop all milk feeds until around 6 weeks at least, so they will want/need to suckle.

I would agree with Brainless here, I would put down enough food that they leave some. Don't worry if they go from bowl to bowl, I have video of our litter last year of them doing this. I did however give them milk to drink right up until they went to their new homes, although I know not everyone does this.

I guess with this little crew they've got some catching up to do, as they didn't get the best start.

Hows the little one doing today?

There seem to be very differing opinions of whether pups should have individual bowls or communal dishes.

I have always fed from one or two flat pans large enough fro about 4 pups to eat from at once.

I have never had food aggressive or competitive puppies, but that is because there is always more than enough food.

I actually think individual dishes are nor likely to make a pup resentful of anyone else trying to get near 'their' dish.

Once pups are no longer part of a litter then they have their own dish, and no-one is allowed to eat from another's dish unless it has been left/finished with.  At first I stand over the puppy so no-one pinches theirs or they wander off and try to get the adults food.

Mine are all fed within 3 feet of each other in their allocated places around the kitchen where they stand waiting for the dish to go down.  I feed them in age order, with oldest getting hers first.

Hi everyone!!

Our girl pulled through and we reunited her with her brothers and sisters this afternoon!  We are over the moon!!!
She was ver excited to see the other and got straight in with playing nibbling the others! I couldnt be happier.

P.S,
Thanks for all the feeding tips.

:)

Ah, excellent news Neal, glad she is back where she belongs:).

Puppies are just the funniest, most entertaining thing ever aren't they? Good job because it's exhausting raising them...lol!