Could i have some ideas on what i will need to include?

Thanks Lois

your puppy has been well socialized and received best care and attention whilst being here, although cannot guarantee its health as it grows up
parents health tested (list tests done)
exposed to everyday noises: hoover, washer, kids, cats etc
list endorsements and conditions for lifting them
i have said, "puppy must go to vets within 1 week of purchase and if findings indicate condition meaning puppy will be unable to be suitable for pet home then, i must be notified immediately and refund will be offered on returning the puppy within 2 weeks of purchase, if all times scales mentioned are not complied by then no refund or replacement pup will be offered" also mention here that illness due to change of environment, stress etc do not constitute to illness which can be refunded by
list worming dates and any vaccines given
list when pup should next be wormed
free insurance
talk about training classes
list appropriate literature on breed
if necessary to rehome pup, you should be contacted immediately and will take pup back, with no refund and either resale or keep.
contact you for any queries
then put your name and address contact info
buyers name and address and contact info
puppies reg name and number DOB
puppy description

just a few things to keep you going xxx

also, mention food already on, food types to avoid, and how to change food correctly

I think most of what I put in my contract has already been mentioned. I also add the Vets contact details incase they want to confirm with the Vets that the pups have been health checked/vaccinated/microchipped.
As mentioned I also include approx 2 pages on do's & dont's when rearing my breed. As I have people from various backgrounds and experience interested in my pups I have tried to make it idiot proof. Do not think I will write it this way because they will know what I mean. You need to break it down so that even a novice owner can understand.
My pups also leave with a food guide telling the new owners what the pups have been fed and at what  time I normally feed them. At the bottom of the feeding info I have highlighted that this is only a guide and it is the owners responsibility to make sure that the pup is being fed enough & a good quality food.

Does anybody have a copy i could look at to see how it is put together and worded.

Thanks, Lois

my puppy's breeder treated this idiot to an outline of basic grooming requirement, what equipment was needed and even listed some suppliers :-) still reading the guide 2 years later!

If you want to PM me your email I can send you a copy of mine.

FAQ Forum:

Puppy Sales Contract

Mine has undergone some modifications in line with experiences and needs.

Thanks to all.

Lois

Interesting ot read other peoples ideas, a lot ow what has been written here I don't have in my contract, but in my "Puppy Handbook".  I feel it is best to keep the contract as short and succinct as possible to allow for little excuse to not read it, and if it ever came to court/arbitration, then it is a clear statement of intent between the parties.  Of course, all the care, feeding, socialisation details are essential, but is the contract the right palce for them?  My contract gives puppies details, buyers details (obviously my details head it), amount paid and date, states the buyer shoudl take the puppy to own vets for examination within 7 days and if anything found then a refund or if available a replacement puppy will be give.  Agreement from the buyer to keep the puppy in a suitable manner.  Agreement that if the pup ever needs to be rehomed we shoudl be given the opportunity first to rehome it, which we will always do.

I think the rehomeing issue is a big bugbear in contracts - of course we would all want our "babes" to come bakc to us, but do the hard line contracts stating "puppy must be returned and no payment will be given " type phrases actually prevent people from contacting the breeder when they must rehome.  After all, they paid for a pup and often expect something back.  We, as breeders, know that the price of a lovely pup at 8 weeks is very different from an 18 month old who may have some behaviour issues!  However, I hope my softer approach at least encourages people to contact me if they cannot keep the dog any longer (thankfully has very rarely happened).  From my rescue experience we see how many people are too embarrassed to contact the breeder too, payment is not an issue but they don't want the breeder to know they could not live up to original expectations.

> I feel it is best to keep the contract as short and succinct as possible to allow for little excuse to not read it,

I agree with Gwen I keep my contract short, (one sheet of A4 orinted both sides) but do include the worming instructions and a rough feeding guideline, as these are so vital.

I agree with Brainless that feed and worming details are vital, however I do a booklet, which starts off with photos of the parent,s grandparentst etc, adn the pups at various stages.  Then there are about 5 or 6 pages which include an intro to the breed, feeding details (what they are on now, how much to increase and when, what not to feed etc), socialisation, health case and health issues.  There is also a sheet with all the health/treatment details, worming - when, with what and when next due, flea treatment, vaccination details,  microchip details.  I think it helps to keep all of this in one place, on 1 easy to read page, and I tell puppy buyers to take the booklet with them to the vet and show this page.  Last page in the booklet is the contract.

I hope that the photos will encourage buyers to hang on to the booklet, which is why I bind the other bits in with it.

Oh I only include a brief bit on worming and feeding in the actual contract, just so they don't miss it if they fail to read the rest of teh advice.

"The puppy will have been wormed at least twice before leaving its mother.  You should worm again at 11 weeks, and monthly to six months of age.  Thereafter you should worm regularly 2 to 4 times a year. 

You have been provided with food that the puppy has been reared on.  Any changes must be gradual.  As a general rule Norwegian Elkhounds will need between 2/3rds and ¾ of the amounts suggested by the manufacturer (no more than 250-275g a day in puppyhood, and 175-225g a day in adulthood), puppy should be kept fit, not fat.  Puppies should be fed this amount split in 4 meals a day to about 3 months of age, then in 3 meals to about 5-6 months, reducing to twice a day until a year old.  After this you may wish to feed the amount once a day, or continue with a small breakfast, and a main meal in the evening."