Just a general query about collars.  I have heard conflicting info about the best type of collars and the best positions for them and wondered what people on heres thoughts are about the least invasive but most effective collar positions are.

Currently I use half checks on my dogs and have them fairly loose.  I have seen many people with the collar sitting quite snug on the dog so when the collar is 'checked' it is more of a choking action.  On both my dogs the collars sit low on the neck, almost at the top of the shoulders. 

My rott boy pulls a lot when out and I was informed that my choice of collar and position of it was giving him more ability to pull due to it sitting near his shoulders.  I was advised to try a slip lead (with stopper to hold it in position) and have it high on the neck pulled up by the ears.  This looked to me like the way I have seen GSD's 'strung up' and didn't look comfortable for the dog.  I gave it a shot and no pulling but am wondering if this is because it is uncomfortable to pull.  If this is the case, is it any worse than using a headcollar that again makes it uncomfortable to pull.

My staff used to have a flat buckle collar and when she pulled on that she nearly choked herself.  This sounded extremely uncomfortable for her yet she persisted on the occassions she chose to pull as it seemed to be crushing her neck/windpipe.

I am seeking peoples opinions about whether it is better to give the dog the ability to pull as when relaxed it is more comfortable for the dog or whether to have a less comfortable option that deters the dog from pulling.  TBH I have no real preference but wouldn't use the slip lead if I thought it was particularly uncomfortable for him.  I go on an american rott forum and they are constantly advocating prong collars for rotts - definitely not a route I will go down! 

Personally I don't think ever checking a dog is acceptable anymore when we know of better ways, and any collar can be dangerous if pulled hard on. (Including a loose half check if the dog should get scared and back away and slip the collar.)  Hence I never check my dogs anymore and as I at the moment have one terrible puller, he's using a headcollar until he's got out of the habit (so much easier to train when he ISN'T pulling and you can praise for doing right, rather than punishing -i.e. jerking- for doing wrong) -his mum used to be the same, she grew out of it after 6 months or so with a headcollar. I also wouldn't say the way a headcollar works is by making it uncomfortable to pull, it just makes it harder and less obvious of something to do for the dog . :)

If a collar is placed high up the dog's neck, just under the ears, jerking will cause extreme discomfort because the throat is extremely sensitive there. It can also damage the larynx.

> Currently I use half checks on my dogs and have them fairly loose.  I have seen many people with the collar sitting quite snug on the dog so when the collar is 'checked' it is more of a choking action.  On both my dogs the collars sit low on the neck, almost at the top of the shoulders. 

I use a half check collar, it's as loose as it can be without easily slipping off, so it's postition depends on Buster - if his nose is to the floor, the collar slips down behind his ears, if his nose isn't on the floor, the collar is at the bottom of his neck.
I have not used the collar postition/yanking to teach Buster to walk without pulling, I've merely used the collar as a means to hold on to him untill he learnt to walk on a slack lead. He doesn't get 'checked', but has learnt that the 'chinking' noise of the chain means he is about to pull so he has to slow down.

I've taught him to walk without pulling by simply standing still when there was tension on the lead,(theory being that every step forward you take while dog is pulling, actually re-inforces the pulling as they are getting what they want - to get there quicker!) the very instant he stopped pulling/released the tension on the lead, I would praise, reward & walk on.
Very simple, takes bags of patience, spot-on timing but it has been fantastic. I now have a dog that weighs more than me that will automatically walk on a slack lead, stop himself from pulling when he hears the 'chink' or feels tension on the lead, he will also pull on command (great for going up muddy hills in the winter) and stop pulling on command.

We are still working on no-pulling around very interesting distractions, we've cracked it with cats & kids - YAY, but are still working on other dogs that are very close and some people - he's fine 80% of the time, but 20% of the time he still gets very excited about people :( .

>My rott boy pulls a lot when out and I was informed that my choice of collar and position of it was giving him more ability to pull due to it sitting near his shoulders

When Buster is out on his long-line, it is attatched to his harness, the harness makes it vey easy & comfortable for him to pull, but it's training that stops him from doing so :)

Think - collar for comfort & safety, training to stop the pulling :)

> Think - collar for comfort & safety, training to stop the pulling :-)

thanks for the comments everyone.  My pup will generally walk on a slack lead if there are no major attractions around like joggers/bikes zooming past or other dogs close by so it is useful to know about the effect of different collars/positions on my dog

My dogs are on harnesses so collar not an issue, just worn for ID purposes. Only my ACS is on a collar because he hates harnesses. He has a normal collar (his is in fact beaded), fairly loose but not loose enough for it to slip over his head. But I don't use his collar for corrections either, so again it makes no difference what he wears. He has learnt to walk on a loose lead.

Vera

To my way of thinking a half check when pulled tight should be snug at the narrowest part of the neck, andy looser and the dog can easily back out of the collar, which should only just be able to go over the head.

I know this wasn't my question but very interesting answer. Thank you jeangenie for clearing up the high up on the neck bit and the possible damage, I have been told many times with my gsd to place his collar up there have found it very difficult and looks horrible for him. Now I know my gut feeling was right.
We now use a head collar it works best of all and as marriane says you can praise him because he is doing it riht rather than the step "yank" method that I seem to get on a collar and lead

> To my way of thinking a half check when pulled tight should be snug at the narrowest part of the neck, andy looser and the dog can easily back out of the collar, which should only just be able to go over the head.

I didn't know that, I don't like the idea of anything too tight round their necks but have never had either of them back out of collars